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Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2007 05:24:20 -0000
From: "mbbrutman"
Subject: Re: SUCCESS!!...kind of...
Hdlook can be found here: http://www.brutman.com/hdlook.zip
It is a little rough around the edges. Basically, it shows you what
your AT class machine thinks it has for hard drives. The geometry of
the drives, as well as the locations of the table entries used to
describe the hard drives are displayed.
Don't run it under Windows - use a DOS boot disk.
I wrote it to try to understand how the Grid was assigning hard drive
values. I don't own a Grid myself and having Shawn read output from
'debug' was a wee bit too slow, so I wrote this to dump out what I
needed instead.
Mike
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> Jeriddian,
> I haven't read Charles' email yet. I hope I don't
> repeat what he said.
> Anyway, yes, you should be able to use your Western
> Digital drives.
> hdlook.exe is availible from Mike B.'s site. Sorry
> Mike, it's late and I can't remember your last name.
> Do you feel comfortable putting it in the Files
> section? Also, is it considered "public domain"?
> The source code was Visual Basic??? I can't remember.
> Charles?
> As far a step by step procedure, the full process
> involves a EPROM programmer and a hex editor. It's
> not as simple as running a program and saving it.
> Mike mentioned a way of making the hard drive appear
> as a cartridge through some sort of BIOS patch. I
> don't know...it's probably very possible, but it's
> above my skill level.
> I hope this helps.
> -Shawn
>
> --- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
>
> > This sounds great, guys!
> >
> > I need to find out if another hard drive besides a
> > Conner can be used
> > for this. I have some old Western Digital Caviar 280
> > Hard Drives from
> > that era which are 80Mb. Where can I get the
> > HDlook.exe file? If I
> > can get the parameters for this hard drive, is it
> > possible to put its
> > designation in the drive table or does it have to be
> > a Conner Drive?
> > As to the source code I thought it would be standard
> > 80386 Assembly
> > language for this sort of operation. I'm hoping that
> > you all can come
> > up with a step by step procedure by which we can
> > reprogram the BIOS
> > and use a different hard drive. Thanks for all your
> > hard work.
> >
> > Jeriddian
> >
> >
> > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz
> > <shawnerz@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Charles,
> > > OK, sounds good. One question I have for you is
> > how
> > > did your BIOS patch program locate the drive table
> > (I
> > > think you called it the "DCT") in the BIOS? Did
> > you
> > > hard code the program to always go to the same
> > address
> > > location, or did you search for it?
> > > If you searched for it, what parameter(s) did you
> > use
> > > for the search?
> > > I ask because there are (at least) 3 different
> > 1520
> > > BIOS versions.
> > > The drive table appears to be the same but at
> > > different address locations.
> > > Also, the text field for the drive type are of
> > > different sizes and different address locations
> > > depending on the BIOS version.
> > >
> > > I think I remember looking over your source code,
> > but
> > > I have only had an "Intro to C Programming" class.
> > I
> > > was quickly in over my head. :-)
> > > -Shawn
> > > Thanks,
> > > -Shawn
> > >
> > > --- Charles Ford <cjford1@> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hay Shawn! Sounds like you have it.
> > > > (a little short of Eureka!)
> > > >
> > > > Once you are 100% hook me up with an example
> > bios,
> > > > and the changes you
> > > > have made and I will figure out how to patch the
> > old
> > > > ROM-modifying program
> > > > (I have slept a couple of thousand times since
> > than)
> > > >
> > > > Shawnerz wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > All,
> > > > > Well, I was finally able to get my 1520 to see
> > > > another
> > > > > hard drive other than the 3 listed in the BIOS
> > > > > firmware!
> > > > > That is the short version of the story.
> > > > > The long version is I did what the other guy
> > did
> > > > with
> > > > > is 1535: changed the text field, changed the
> > drive
> > > > > table, corrected the checksum.
> > > > > I finished at about 11:30 last night. Getting
> > the
> > > > > 1520 to recognize the 340 MB drive was an
> > > > important
> > > > > first step.
> > > > > I have a 340 MB, Conner drive in the 1520. I
> > can
> > > > > mount the drive and browse the directories. I
> > have
> > > > > not run fdisk on the disk yet. I am booting
> > MSDOS
> > > > 5.0
> > > > > from floppy.
> > > > > I brought the hard drive from Ebay back in
> > > > October.
> > > > > The seller listed the drive as a 420 MB drive.
> > The
> > > > > printed label (from Conner) on the drive says
> > it's
> > > > a
> > > > > Conner CFS420A , 320 MB drive.
> > > > > I put the drive into my desktop. The desktop
> > BIOS
> > > > > POST (Power On Self Test) message says the
> > drive
> > > > is a
> > > > > CPA320B. I went into the Setup on the BIOS,
> > and
> > > > Setup
> > > > > reported that the drive is a CPA320.
> > > > > So, when I made the new Grid BIOS file, I
> > entered
> > > > > CPA320 as the drive type. It worked! I could
> > > > barely
> > > > > believe it.
> > > > > There is one point I want to stress: I WOULD
> > NOT
> > > > HAVE
> > > > > BEEN ABLE TO DO THIS WITHOUT hdlook.exe!!
> > > > > Thanks Mike!! Even though I didn't boot from
> > the
> > > > > drive, hdlook was able to report the correct
> > drive
> > > > > parameters for me to enter into the drive
> > table.
> > > > It
> > > > > would be nice if it were able to report the
> > name
> > > > of
> > > > > the drive, but I'm not complaining.
> > > > > I still have work to do. I need to format the
> > > > drive,
> > > > > install the OS and boot from it.
> > > > > Then, I'll move onto Compact Flash.
> > > > > Cheers,
> > > > > -Shawn
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> __________________________________________________________
> > > > > Now that's room service! Choose from over
> > 150,000
> > > > hotels
> > > > > in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to
> > find
> > > > your fit.
> > > > >
> > http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
> > > > >
> > > >
> > <http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097>
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > > --------------------~-->
> > > > Yahoo! Groups gets a make over. See the new
> > email
> > > > design.
> > > >
> > >
> >
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/hOt0.A/lOaOAA/yQLSAA/f7l0lB/TM
> > > >
> > >
> >
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> > ~->
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> > > > Yahoo! Groups - Join or create groups, clubs,
> > forums
> > > > & communities. Links
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> ______________________________________________________________________
> > ______________
> > > Yahoo! Music Unlimited
> > > Access over 1 million songs.
> > > http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited
> > >
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
>
>
>
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>
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2007 21:31:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] SUCCESS!!...kind of...
Charles,
My lack of real world programming experience come to
light here. However, I have put some thought into how
a program could be laid out.
A program like hdlook.exe could be run. The values it
found for the hard drive could be stored in variables.
Every Sectors (per track) value in the drive table is
11h (17 decimal). The Sectors value is the 2nd to
last byte of the table entry. Each table entry is 16
bytes long.
One search method would be to look for a value of 11.
Once an 11 is found, then jump 16 bytes. Is this
value 11? If not, it's not the start of the table.
Search for the next value of 11. Once the program
finds an 11, jump 16 bytes. Is it 11? If yes, then
jump another 16 bytes and see if the value is 11.
(This time it's just to verify that the program has
actually found the table and the 11 was not a
coincidence).
Next, this program would update the table with the
variables from hdlook.
The text field would also have to be updated. One way
to do this is to search for the hex equivilent of
"CP". Once this is found, the program could prompt
the user to enter the drive type.
Once that has been entered, the program would have to
generate the odd and even files. Then, it would have
to compute the 16 bit checksum of each file. Then
modify the beginning part of each file to get the
checksum back to the original checksum value.
Then, of course, the program would have to store the
modified files to the files could be burned into new
(E)Proms.
That should take, what, 10, maybe 15 lines of code,
right? ;-) HA!
-Shawn
--- Charles Ford <cjford1@...> wrote:
> Shawn:
> Questions answered as inserted comments...
>
> >---Shawn wrote---<
> >Charles,
> >OK, sounds good. One question I have for you is
> how
> >did your BIOS patch program locate the drive table
> (I
> >think you called it the "DCT") in the BIOS? Did
> you
> >hard code the program to always go to the same
> address
> >location, or did you search for it?
>
> It is hard coded to a fixed address based on a post
> I got on Rob's GRiD
> board.
> If there is a way we can search the table this would
> possibly allow us
> to alterer other Phoenix BIOS
>
> >If you searched for it, what parameter(s) did you
> use
> >for the search?
> >I ask because there are (at least) 3 different
> 1520
> >BIOS versions.
> >The drive table appears to be the same but at
> >different address locations.
>
> This my be a consistent method through all Phoenix
> 86 BIOS.
>
> >Also, the text field for the drive type are of
> >different sizes and different address locations
> >depending on the BIOS version.
>
> >I think I remember looking over your source code,
> but
> >I have only had an "Intro to C Programming" class.
> I
> >was quickly in over my head. :-)
>
> Yah... Wait until you start working with object
> oriented
> backwards(thinking,oriented,"programing /n")
> brain.mine=(do_crash,thinkingBackwards)
> (say wah???)
>
> >-Shawn
> >Thanks,
> >-Shawn
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> --------------------~-->
> Yahoo! Groups gets a make over. See the new email
> design.
>
http://us.click.yahoo.com/hOt0.A/lOaOAA/yQLSAA/f7l0lB/TM
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------~->
>
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2007 07:21:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: "fisheggs"
Charles,
I had logged off the computer and was about to go to
bed. I started thinking, "fisheggs? What did he mean
by fishegg hard drive?"
The answer came to me soon afterwards: fisheggs a.k.a
caviar, a.k.a Western Digital Caviar.
I never said I was the brightest bulb, but I do catch
on eventually... :)
-Shawn
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2007 16:34:24 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: "fisheggs"
Shawn,
I also did a double take for about a minute when he said that
until I made the connection. However I discovered the physical
placement of the pin configuration on my "fishegg" drives are not
compatible with the Conner, therefore they won't fit onto the
connecting board with the floppy drive. I'll have to go searching for
another unit.
Jeriddian
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> Charles,
> I had logged off the computer and was about to go to
> bed. I started thinking, "fisheggs? What did he mean
> by fishegg hard drive?"
> The answer came to me soon afterwards: fisheggs a.k.a
> caviar, a.k.a Western Digital Caviar.
> I never said I was the brightest bulb, but I do catch
> on eventually... :)
> -Shawn
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> It's here! Your new message!
> Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.
> http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/
>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2007 22:06:34 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: SUCCESS!!...kind of...
Thanks Charle and Shawn,
As I noted, My WD caviar 280 did not have the correct
orientation of the pins to fit inside my 1530's, so I went looking at
my local computer junk store and I found two Conner CP30174E drives,
which both apparently work well. They're at 170 Mb capacity.
Physically they are configured to fit. Now all I need is the patch
you have come up with, please and thank you, whenever you finish
testing it out. I know a little about programming but not enough to
ctatch completely on to what you all are doing here, so when it's
finished, if you could take it through step by step, I'd be most
grateful.
Jeriddian
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Charles Ford <cjford1@...>
wrote:
>
> Jeriddian:
>
> I have used the WD fisheggs in the past with success. The key is
that
> they fit onto the backplane, so any drive has that same connection-
edge
> footprint will work if the BIOS is altered to make it.
>
>
> jeriddian wrote:
> >
> > This sounds great, guys!
> >
> > I need to find out if another hard drive besides a Conner can be
used
> > for this. I have some old Western Digital Caviar 280 Hard Drives
from
> > that era which are 80Mb. Where can I get the HDlook.exe file? If I
> > can get the parameters for this hard drive, is it possible to put
its
> > designation in the drive table or does it have to be a Conner
Drive?
> > As to the source code I thought it would be standard 80386
Assembly
> > language for this sort of operation. I'm hoping that you all can
come
> > up with a step by step procedure by which we can reprogram the
BIOS
> > and use a different hard drive. Thanks for all your hard work.
> >
> > Jeriddian
> >
> > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop%40yahoogroups.com>, Shawnerz <shawnerz@>
wrote:
> > >
> > > Charles,
> > > OK, sounds good. One question I have for you is how
> > > did your BIOS patch program locate the drive table (I
> > > think you called it the "DCT") in the BIOS? Did you
> > > hard code the program to always go to the same address
> > > location, or did you search for it?
> > > If you searched for it, what parameter(s) did you use
> > > for the search?
> > > I ask because there are (at least) 3 different 1520
> > > BIOS versions.
> > > The drive table appears to be the same but at
> > > different address locations.
> > > Also, the text field for the drive type are of
> > > different sizes and different address locations
> > > depending on the BIOS version.
> > >
> > > I think I remember looking over your source code, but
> > > I have only had an "Intro to C Programming" class. I
> > > was quickly in over my head. :-)
> > > -Shawn
> > > Thanks,
> > > -Shawn
> > >
> > > --- Charles Ford <cjford1@> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hay Shawn! Sounds like you have it.
> > > > (a little short of Eureka!)
> > > >
> > > > Once you are 100% hook me up with an example bios,
> > > > and the changes you
> > > > have made and I will figure out how to patch the old
> > > > ROM-modifying program
> > > > (I have slept a couple of thousand times since than)
> > > >
> > > > Shawnerz wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > All,
> > > > > Well, I was finally able to get my 1520 to see
> > > > another
> > > > > hard drive other than the 3 listed in the BIOS
> > > > > firmware!
> > > > > That is the short version of the story.
> > > > > The long version is I did what the other guy did
> > > > with
> > > > > is 1535: changed the text field, changed the drive
> > > > > table, corrected the checksum.
> > > > > I finished at about 11:30 last night. Getting the
> > > > > 1520 to recognize the 340 MB drive was an
> > > > important
> > > > > first step.
> > > > > I have a 340 MB, Conner drive in the 1520. I can
> > > > > mount the drive and browse the directories. I have
> > > > > not run fdisk on the disk yet. I am booting MSDOS
> > > > 5.0
> > > > > from floppy.
> > > > > I brought the hard drive from Ebay back in
> > > > October.
> > > > > The seller listed the drive as a 420 MB drive. The
> > > > > printed label (from Conner) on the drive says it's
> > > > a
> > > > > Conner CFS420A , 320 MB drive.
> > > > > I put the drive into my desktop. The desktop BIOS
> > > > > POST (Power On Self Test) message says the drive
> > > > is a
> > > > > CPA320B. I went into the Setup on the BIOS, and
> > > > Setup
> > > > > reported that the drive is a CPA320.
> > > > > So, when I made the new Grid BIOS file, I entered
> > > > > CPA320 as the drive type. It worked! I could
> > > > barely
> > > > > believe it.
> > > > > There is one point I want to stress: I WOULD NOT
> > > > HAVE
> > > > > BEEN ABLE TO DO THIS WITHOUT hdlook.exe!!
> > > > > Thanks Mike!! Even though I didn't boot from the
> > > > > drive, hdlook was able to report the correct drive
> > > > > parameters for me to enter into the drive table.
> > > > It
> > > > > would be nice if it were able to report the name
> > > > of
> > > > > the drive, but I'm not complaining.
> > > > > I still have work to do. I need to format the
> > > > drive,
> > > > > install the OS and boot from it.
> > > > > Then, I'll move onto Compact Flash.
> > > > > Cheers,
> > > > > -Shawn
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > __________________________________________________________
> > > > > Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000
> > > > hotels
> > > > > in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find
> > > > your fit.
> > > > > http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
> > <http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097>
> > > > >
> > > > <http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
> > <http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097>>
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > > --------------------~-->
> > > > Yahoo! Groups gets a make over. See the new email
> > > > design.
> > > >
> > > http://us.click.yahoo.com/hOt0.A/lOaOAA/yQLSAA/f7l0lB/TM
> > <http://us.click.yahoo.com/hOt0.A/lOaOAA/yQLSAA/f7l0lB/TM>
> > > >
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > ~->
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> > <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/>
> > > > Yahoo! Groups - Join or create groups, clubs, forums
> > > > & communities. Links
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > __________________________________________________________
> > ______________
> > > Yahoo! Music Unlimited
> > > Access over 1 million songs.
> > > http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited
<http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited>
> > >
> >
> >
>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2007 22:30:10 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: SUCCESS!!...kind of...
Thanks, Mike,
I downoaded the zip file for hdlook, but when I tried to extract
it, it asked for a password. Could you provdide that for me? I didn't
see it listed in your email or on your website.
Thanks,
Jeriddian
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "mbbrutman" <mbbrutman@...>
wrote:
>
>
> Hdlook can be found here: http://www.brutman.com/hdlook.zip
>
> It is a little rough around the edges. Basically, it shows you what
> your AT class machine thinks it has for hard drives. The geometry
of
> the drives, as well as the locations of the table entries used to
> describe the hard drives are displayed.
>
> Don't run it under Windows - use a DOS boot disk.
>
> I wrote it to try to understand how the Grid was assigning hard
drive
> values. I don't own a Grid myself and having Shawn read output from
> 'debug' was a wee bit too slow, so I wrote this to dump out what I
> needed instead.
>
>
> Mike
>
> --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@> wrote:
> >
> > Jeriddian,
> > I haven't read Charles' email yet. I hope I don't
> > repeat what he said.
> > Anyway, yes, you should be able to use your Western
> > Digital drives.
> > hdlook.exe is availible from Mike B.'s site. Sorry
> > Mike, it's late and I can't remember your last name.
> > Do you feel comfortable putting it in the Files
> > section? Also, is it considered "public domain"?
> > The source code was Visual Basic??? I can't remember.
> > Charles?
> > As far a step by step procedure, the full process
> > involves a EPROM programmer and a hex editor. It's
> > not as simple as running a program and saving it.
> > Mike mentioned a way of making the hard drive appear
> > as a cartridge through some sort of BIOS patch. I
> > don't know...it's probably very possible, but it's
> > above my skill level.
> > I hope this helps.
> > -Shawn
> >
> > --- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@> wrote:
> >
> > > This sounds great, guys!
> > >
> > > I need to find out if another hard drive besides a
> > > Conner can be used
> > > for this. I have some old Western Digital Caviar 280
> > > Hard Drives from
> > > that era which are 80Mb. Where can I get the
> > > HDlook.exe file? If I
> > > can get the parameters for this hard drive, is it
> > > possible to put its
> > > designation in the drive table or does it have to be
> > > a Conner Drive?
> > > As to the source code I thought it would be standard
> > > 80386 Assembly
> > > language for this sort of operation. I'm hoping that
> > > you all can come
> > > up with a step by step procedure by which we can
> > > reprogram the BIOS
> > > and use a different hard drive. Thanks for all your
> > > hard work.
> > >
> > > Jeriddian
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz
> > > <shawnerz@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Charles,
> > > > OK, sounds good. One question I have for you is
> > > how
> > > > did your BIOS patch program locate the drive table
> > > (I
> > > > think you called it the "DCT") in the BIOS? Did
> > > you
> > > > hard code the program to always go to the same
> > > address
> > > > location, or did you search for it?
> > > > If you searched for it, what parameter(s) did you
> > > use
> > > > for the search?
> > > > I ask because there are (at least) 3 different
> > > 1520
> > > > BIOS versions.
> > > > The drive table appears to be the same but at
> > > > different address locations.
> > > > Also, the text field for the drive type are of
> > > > different sizes and different address locations
> > > > depending on the BIOS version.
> > > >
> > > > I think I remember looking over your source code,
> > > but
> > > > I have only had an "Intro to C Programming" class.
> > > I
> > > > was quickly in over my head. :-)
> > > > -Shawn
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > -Shawn
> > > >
> > > > --- Charles Ford <cjford1@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Hay Shawn! Sounds like you have it.
> > > > > (a little short of Eureka!)
> > > > >
> > > > > Once you are 100% hook me up with an example
> > > bios,
> > > > > and the changes you
> > > > > have made and I will figure out how to patch the
> > > old
> > > > > ROM-modifying program
> > > > > (I have slept a couple of thousand times since
> > > than)
> > > > >
> > > > > Shawnerz wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > All,
> > > > > > Well, I was finally able to get my 1520 to see
> > > > > another
> > > > > > hard drive other than the 3 listed in the BIOS
> > > > > > firmware!
> > > > > > That is the short version of the story.
> > > > > > The long version is I did what the other guy
> > > did
> > > > > with
> > > > > > is 1535: changed the text field, changed the
> > > drive
> > > > > > table, corrected the checksum.
> > > > > > I finished at about 11:30 last night. Getting
> > > the
> > > > > > 1520 to recognize the 340 MB drive was an
> > > > > important
> > > > > > first step.
> > > > > > I have a 340 MB, Conner drive in the 1520. I
> > > can
> > > > > > mount the drive and browse the directories. I
> > > have
> > > > > > not run fdisk on the disk yet. I am booting
> > > MSDOS
> > > > > 5.0
> > > > > > from floppy.
> > > > > > I brought the hard drive from Ebay back in
> > > > > October.
> > > > > > The seller listed the drive as a 420 MB drive.
> > > The
> > > > > > printed label (from Conner) on the drive says
> > > it's
> > > > > a
> > > > > > Conner CFS420A , 320 MB drive.
> > > > > > I put the drive into my desktop. The desktop
> > > BIOS
> > > > > > POST (Power On Self Test) message says the
> > > drive
> > > > > is a
> > > > > > CPA320B. I went into the Setup on the BIOS,
> > > and
> > > > > Setup
> > > > > > reported that the drive is a CPA320.
> > > > > > So, when I made the new Grid BIOS file, I
> > > entered
> > > > > > CPA320 as the drive type. It worked! I could
> > > > > barely
> > > > > > believe it.
> > > > > > There is one point I want to stress: I WOULD
> > > NOT
> > > > > HAVE
> > > > > > BEEN ABLE TO DO THIS WITHOUT hdlook.exe!!
> > > > > > Thanks Mike!! Even though I didn't boot from
> > > the
> > > > > > drive, hdlook was able to report the correct
> > > drive
> > > > > > parameters for me to enter into the drive
> > > table.
> > > > > It
> > > > > > would be nice if it were able to report the
> > > name
> > > > > of
> > > > > > the drive, but I'm not complaining.
> > > > > > I still have work to do. I need to format the
> > > > > drive,
> > > > > > install the OS and boot from it.
> > > > > > Then, I'll move onto Compact Flash.
> > > > > > Cheers,
> > > > > > -Shawn
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > __________________________________________________________
> > > > > > Now that's room service! Choose from over
> > > 150,000
> > > > > hotels
> > > > > > in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to
> > > find
> > > > > your fit.
> > > > > >
> > > http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > <http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097>
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > > > --------------------~-->
> > > > > Yahoo! Groups gets a make over. See the new
> > > email
> > > > > design.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > http://us.click.yahoo.com/hOt0.A/lOaOAA/yQLSAA/f7l0lB/TM
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> > > ~->
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> > > > > Yahoo! Groups - Join or create groups, clubs,
> > > forums
> > > > > & communities. Links
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
______________________________________________________________________
> > > ______________
> > > > Yahoo! Music Unlimited
> > > > Access over 1 million songs.
> > > > http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited
> > > >
> > >
> > === message truncated ===
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> > Want to start your own business?
> > Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
> > http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index
> >
>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2007 16:47:50 -0600
From: Michael Brutman
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: SUCCESS!!...kind of...
Sorry - wasn't trying to be funny there.
Try 'password' as the password. I only put a password on the zip file
so that anti-virus programs would stop complaining about it when I
emailed it.
Mike
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2007 23:42:45 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: SUCCESS!!...kind of...
Thanks, Mike
"Password" worked just fine. I used the program to get the specs
on the Conner CP30174E. They are as follows:
Intra Vec Location: 0000:0118
Table location: F000:EFF5
Maximum Cylinders: 903
Maximum Heads: 8
Write Pre Comp Cyliner: 65535
Control Byte: 0
Landing Zone Cylinder: 902
Sectors Per Track: 46
Total KiloBytes: 166152
Total MegaBytes: 12.257812
I know you only need three or four pieces of that info, but it's
all there just in case.
As I suspected, my old HDD was dead when I tried on the machine
I'm using to test the drives. Its actually a CP 30104, and I know I
have different BIOS chips since it has to have a different table
defining the usable hard drives. They put them in when I upgraded the
unit to a plasma screen back in 1987. I still have the original BIOS
chips and old memory too as they sent those back when I received the
unit from GRID after the upgrade.
The old HDD seems to want to start up because I can feel it
vibrate at first, but then after that it seems nothing happens. I
wonder if this is just a failure of the motor drive itself, or is
there something else going on. There is no clicking.
Jeriddian
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Michael Brutman <mbbrutman@...>
wrote:
>
>
> Sorry - wasn't trying to be funny there.
>
> Try 'password' as the password. I only put a password on the zip
file
> so that anti-virus programs would stop complaining about it when I
> emailed it.
>
>
> Mike
>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2007 23:46:08 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: SUCCESS!!...kind of...
Shawn,
How do you create a new GRID BIOS File? Then how do you put it on
the machine? Please and Thank You. Now that I have a CP30174E 170Mb
drive to use, I want to try adn see if it will work with that.
Jeriddian
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> All,
> Well, I was finally able to get my 1520 to see another
> hard drive other than the 3 listed in the BIOS
> firmware!
> That is the short version of the story.
> The long version is I did what the other guy did with
> is 1535: changed the text field, changed the drive
> table, corrected the checksum.
> I finished at about 11:30 last night. Getting the
> 1520 to recognize the 340 MB drive was an important
> first step.
> I have a 340 MB, Conner drive in the 1520. I can
> mount the drive and browse the directories. I have
> not run fdisk on the disk yet. I am booting MSDOS 5.0
> from floppy.
> I brought the hard drive from Ebay back in October.
> The seller listed the drive as a 420 MB drive. The
> printed label (from Conner) on the drive says it's a
> Conner CFS420A , 320 MB drive.
> I put the drive into my desktop. The desktop BIOS
> POST (Power On Self Test) message says the drive is a
> CPA320B. I went into the Setup on the BIOS, and Setup
> reported that the drive is a CPA320.
> So, when I made the new Grid BIOS file, I entered
> CPA320 as the drive type. It worked! I could barely
> believe it.
> There is one point I want to stress: I WOULD NOT HAVE
> BEEN ABLE TO DO THIS WITHOUT hdlook.exe!!
> Thanks Mike!! Even though I didn't boot from the
> drive, hdlook was able to report the correct drive
> parameters for me to enter into the drive table. It
> would be nice if it were able to report the name of
> the drive, but I'm not complaining.
> I still have work to do. I need to format the drive,
> install the OS and boot from it.
> Then, I'll move onto Compact Flash.
> Cheers,
> -Shawn
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
> in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
> http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2007 23:56:43 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: SUCCESS!!...kind of...
Sorry for the double post,guys,
But I just found a table for all the Conner Hard Drives. It lists all
their hard drive information avaiable. It's at the following address:
http://www.computerhope.com/hdconner.htm
That may actally give all the Data you would normally get from
hdlook, that would you needfor any hard drive.
Hope that helps.
Jeriddian
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "jeriddian"
<FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
>
> Shawn,
> How do you create a new GRID BIOS File? Then how do you put it
on
> the machine? Please and Thank You. Now that I have a CP30174E 170Mb
> drive to use, I want to try adn see if it will work with that.
>
> Jeriddian
>
> --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@> wrote:
> >
> > All,
> > Well, I was finally able to get my 1520 to see another
> > hard drive other than the 3 listed in the BIOS
> > firmware!
> > That is the short version of the story.
> > The long version is I did what the other guy did with
> > is 1535: changed the text field, changed the drive
> > table, corrected the checksum.
> > I finished at about 11:30 last night. Getting the
> > 1520 to recognize the 340 MB drive was an important
> > first step.
> > I have a 340 MB, Conner drive in the 1520. I can
> > mount the drive and browse the directories. I have
> > not run fdisk on the disk yet. I am booting MSDOS 5.0
> > from floppy.
> > I brought the hard drive from Ebay back in October.
> > The seller listed the drive as a 420 MB drive. The
> > printed label (from Conner) on the drive says it's a
> > Conner CFS420A , 320 MB drive.
> > I put the drive into my desktop. The desktop BIOS
> > POST (Power On Self Test) message says the drive is a
> > CPA320B. I went into the Setup on the BIOS, and Setup
> > reported that the drive is a CPA320.
> > So, when I made the new Grid BIOS file, I entered
> > CPA320 as the drive type. It worked! I could barely
> > believe it.
> > There is one point I want to stress: I WOULD NOT HAVE
> > BEEN ABLE TO DO THIS WITHOUT hdlook.exe!!
> > Thanks Mike!! Even though I didn't boot from the
> > drive, hdlook was able to report the correct drive
> > parameters for me to enter into the drive table. It
> > would be nice if it were able to report the name of
> > the drive, but I'm not complaining.
> > I still have work to do. I need to format the drive,
> > install the OS and boot from it.
> > Then, I'll move onto Compact Flash.
> > Cheers,
> > -Shawn
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> ______________
> > Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
> > in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
> > http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
> >
>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2007 17:55:13 -0800
From: KenS
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: SUCCESS!!...kind of...
jeriddian wrote:
Thanks, Mike,
>
>
> I downoaded the zip file for hdlook, but when I tried to extract
> it, it asked for a password. Could you provdide that for me?
>
Likewise, looking forward to it.
EngrKen
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2007 18:01:28 -0800
From: KenS
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: SUCCESS!!...kind of...
Michael Brutman wrote:
> Try 'password' as the password.
Got it. Thanks Mike.
Ken S.
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2007 21:31:07 -0600
From: Charles Ford
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] SUCCESS!!...kind of...
That's ten or fifteen lines of code after you write the dozen or so
functional objects to call....
:-)
Shawnerz wrote:
>
> Charles,
> My lack of real world programming experience come to
> light here. However, I have put some thought into how
> a program could be laid out.
> A program like hdlook.exe could be run. The values it
> found for the hard drive could be stored in variables.
>
> Every Sectors (per track) value in the drive table is
> 11h (17 decimal). The Sectors value is the 2nd to
> last byte of the table entry. Each table entry is 16
> bytes long.
> One search method would be to look for a value of 11.
> Once an 11 is found, then jump 16 bytes. Is this
> value 11? If not, it's not the start of the table.
> Search for the next value of 11. Once the program
> finds an 11, jump 16 bytes. Is it 11? If yes, then
> jump another 16 bytes and see if the value is 11.
> (This time it's just to verify that the program has
> actually found the table and the 11 was not a
> coincidence).
> Next, this program would update the table with the
> variables from hdlook.
> The text field would also have to be updated. One way
> to do this is to search for the hex equivilent of
> "CP". Once this is found, the program could prompt
> the user to enter the drive type.
> Once that has been entered, the program would have to
> generate the odd and even files. Then, it would have
> to compute the 16 bit checksum of each file. Then
> modify the beginning part of each file to get the
> checksum back to the original checksum value.
> Then, of course, the program would have to store the
> modified files to the files could be burned into new
> (E)Proms.
> That should take, what, 10, maybe 15 lines of code,
> right? ;-) HA!
> -Shawn
>
> --- Charles Ford <cjford1@... <mailto:cjford1%40swbell.net>> wrote:
>
> > Shawn:
> > Questions answered as inserted comments...
> >
> > >---Shawn wrote---<
> > >Charles,
> > >OK, sounds good. One question I have for you is
> > how
> > >did your BIOS patch program locate the drive table
> > (I
> > >think you called it the "DCT") in the BIOS? Did
> > you
> > >hard code the program to always go to the same
> > address
> > >location, or did you search for it?
> >
> > It is hard coded to a fixed address based on a post
> > I got on Rob's GRiD
> > board.
> > If there is a way we can search the table this would
> > possibly allow us
> > to alterer other Phoenix BIOS
> >
> > >If you searched for it, what parameter(s) did you
> > use
> > >for the search?
> > >I ask because there are (at least) 3 different
> > 1520
> > >BIOS versions.
> > >The drive table appears to be the same but at
> > >different address locations.
> >
> > This my be a consistent method through all Phoenix
> > 86 BIOS.
> >
> > >Also, the text field for the drive type are of
> > >different sizes and different address locations
> > >depending on the BIOS version.
> >
> > >I think I remember looking over your source code,
> > but
> > >I have only had an "Intro to C Programming" class.
> > I
> > >was quickly in over my head. :-)
> >
> > Yah... Wait until you start working with object
> > oriented
> > backwards(thinking,oriented,"programing /n")
> > brain.mine=(do_crash,thinkingBackwards)
> > (say wah???)
> >
> > >-Shawn
> > >Thanks,
> > >-Shawn
> >
> >
> > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> >
> >
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/>
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> > mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured%40yahoogroups.com>
> >
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Be a PS3 game guru.
> Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo!
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>
>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2007 21:37:17 -0600
From: Charles Ford
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: SUCCESS!!...kind of...
Jeriddian:
If I remember correctly I had to bend the power connectors to one side,
they are about 1/16 off.
But I could be wrong about the old WD drive (its been a few years, and I
have professors cramming all sorts of new stuff into my head)
jeriddian wrote:
>
> Shawn,
> I also did a double take for about a minute when he said that
> until I made the connection. However I discovered the physical
> placement of the pin configuration on my "fishegg" drives are not
> compatible with the Conner, therefore they won't fit onto the
> connecting board with the floppy drive. I'll have to go searching for
> another unit.
>
> Jeriddian
>
> --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop%40yahoogroups.com>, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
> >
> > Charles,
> > I had logged off the computer and was about to go to
> > bed. I started thinking, "fisheggs? What did he mean
> > by fishegg hard drive?"
> > The answer came to me soon afterwards: fisheggs a.k.a
> > caviar, a.k.a Western Digital Caviar.
> > I never said I was the brightest bulb, but I do catch
> > on eventually... :)
> > -Shawn
> >
> >
> >
> >
> __________________________________________________________
> ______________
> > It's here! Your new message!
> > Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.
> > http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/
> <http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/>
> >
>
>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2007 19:50:34 -0800 (PST)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: SUCCESS!!...kind of...
Filipe, or Jeriddian, or Jerry, or whatever your name
is ;-),
I'm going to combine a few of your emails.
> Intra Vec Location: 0000:0118
Table location: F000:EFF5
Maximum Cylinders: 903
Maximum Heads: 8
Write Pre Comp Cyliner: 65535
Control Byte: 0
Landing Zone Cylinder: 902
Sectors Per Track: 46
Total KiloBytes: 166152
Total MegaBytes: 12.257812
> I know you only need three or four pieces of that
>info, but it's all there just in case.
You will actually need lines 3 through 8.
>The old HDD seems to want to start up because I can
>feel it vibrate at first, but then after that it
>seems nothing happens. I
>wonder if this is just a failure of the motor drive
>itself, or is there something else going on. There is
>no clicking.
At one time, we had a technician that worked for
Conner on the list. The head may be stuck to the
platter. I believe that's called "stiction."
Try twisting the drive as much as you can. It is
supposed to help to free the head from the platter.
Also, I've heard firmly hitting the drive on concrete
might help too. I'm not recommending you take a
hammer to it on the concrete. I'm just suggesting one
or two firm hits to free the head.
>But I just found a table for all the Conner Hard
>Drives. It lists all
>their hard drive information avaiable. It's at the
>following address:
>http://www.computerhope.com/hdconner.htm
>That may actally give all the Data you would normally
>get from hdlook, that would you needfor any hard
>drive.
Lists like the above may be helpful, but don't believe
everything you read. I would have never expected my
Conner CFS420A hard drive actually report as a CPS320.
On the hard drive, there are two unaltered lables
from Conner Periphierials that say the drive is a
CFS420A. However, when plugged into my desktop, the
drive reports as a CPS320. That type of information
is not online.
Also, I have an old copy of the Hard Drive Bible.
There are descrepancies between the printed
information in the book and the CD that came with the
book.
> How do you create a new GRID BIOS File? Then how
>do you put it on the machine? Please and Thank You.
>Now that I have a CP30174E 170Mb
>drive to use, I want to try adn see if it will work
>with that.
I started instructions on how to do this. I'm about
2/3 of the way done, I've typed for about an hour, and
I've realised this process is very complex. You need
access to a computer, be comfortable working with a
hex editor and EPROM programmer. Depending on the
revision of your Grid motherboard, you may need to
desolder the BIOS EPROMs. I have 4, 1520's. 2 of
them have the BIOS EPROMs in very low profile sockets.
The other 2 have the EPROMs soldered into the
motherboard.
I'll finish the procedure on Sunday or Monday. I'll
warn everyone now, that it's long and detailed.
I hope this helps,
-Shawn
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2007 08:45:28 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: SUCCESS!!...kind of...
Sorry about that, My name is Felipe (or just Phil will do).
Jeriddian's just my usual internet handle. I forgot that I was using
my FelipeGPorresMD@msn.com email site instead of the other.
Thanks for the info.
I appreciate it very much.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> Filipe, or Jeriddian, or Jerry, or whatever your name
> is ;-),
> I'm going to combine a few of your emails.
>
> > Intra Vec Location: 0000:0118
> Table location: F000:EFF5
> Maximum Cylinders: 903
> Maximum Heads: 8
> Write Pre Comp Cyliner: 65535
> Control Byte: 0
> Landing Zone Cylinder: 902
> Sectors Per Track: 46
> Total KiloBytes: 166152
> Total MegaBytes: 12.257812
>
> > I know you only need three or four pieces of that
> >info, but it's all there just in case.
>
> You will actually need lines 3 through 8.
>
> >The old HDD seems to want to start up because I can
> >feel it vibrate at first, but then after that it
> >seems nothing happens. I
> >wonder if this is just a failure of the motor drive
> >itself, or is there something else going on. There is
> >no clicking.
>
> At one time, we had a technician that worked for
> Conner on the list. The head may be stuck to the
> platter. I believe that's called "stiction."
> Try twisting the drive as much as you can. It is
> supposed to help to free the head from the platter.
> Also, I've heard firmly hitting the drive on concrete
> might help too. I'm not recommending you take a
> hammer to it on the concrete. I'm just suggesting one
> or two firm hits to free the head.
>
> >But I just found a table for all the Conner Hard
> >Drives. It lists all
> >their hard drive information avaiable. It's at the
> >following address:
>
> >http://www.computerhope.com/hdconner.htm
>
> >That may actally give all the Data you would normally
> >get from hdlook, that would you needfor any hard
> >drive.
>
> Lists like the above may be helpful, but don't believe
> everything you read. I would have never expected my
> Conner CFS420A hard drive actually report as a CPS320.
> On the hard drive, there are two unaltered lables
> from Conner Periphierials that say the drive is a
> CFS420A. However, when plugged into my desktop, the
> drive reports as a CPS320. That type of information
> is not online.
> Also, I have an old copy of the Hard Drive Bible.
> There are descrepancies between the printed
> information in the book and the CD that came with the
> book.
>
> > How do you create a new GRID BIOS File? Then how
> >do you put it on the machine? Please and Thank You.
> >Now that I have a CP30174E 170Mb
> >drive to use, I want to try adn see if it will work
> >with that.
>
> I started instructions on how to do this. I'm about
> 2/3 of the way done, I've typed for about an hour, and
> I've realised this process is very complex. You need
> access to a computer, be comfortable working with a
> hex editor and EPROM programmer. Depending on the
> revision of your Grid motherboard, you may need to
> desolder the BIOS EPROMs. I have 4, 1520's. 2 of
> them have the BIOS EPROMs in very low profile sockets.
> The other 2 have the EPROMs soldered into the
> motherboard.
>
> I'll finish the procedure on Sunday or Monday. I'll
> warn everyone now, that it's long and detailed.
>
> I hope this helps,
> -Shawn
>
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> TV dinner still cooling?
> Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
> http://tv.yahoo.com/
>
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2007 19:12:13 -0600
From: Michael Brutman
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: SUCCESS!!...kind of...
jeriddian wrote:
> Thanks, Mike
>
> "Password" worked just fine. I used the program to get the specs
> on the Conner CP30174E. They are as follows:
>
> Intra Vec Location: 0000:0118
> Table location: F000:EFF5
> Maximum Cylinders: 903
> Maximum Heads: 8
> Write Pre Comp Cyliner: 65535
> Control Byte: 0
> Landing Zone Cylinder: 902
> Sectors Per Track: 46
> Total KiloBytes: 166152
> Total MegaBytes: 12.25781
Looks like I have a little math bug when computing 'Total MegaBytes' :-)
Mike
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2007 10:40:57 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: SUCCESS!!...kind of...
I'm sorry, Mike,but it's a typo. It's really this:
Total Megabytes: 162.257812
Somehow the "6" didn't get in there.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Michael Brutman <mbbrutman@...>
wrote:
>
> jeriddian wrote:
>
> > Thanks, Mike
> >
> > "Password" worked just fine. I used the program to get the specs
> > on the Conner CP30174E. They are as follows:
> >
> > Intra Vec Location: 0000:0118
> > Table location: F000:EFF5
> > Maximum Cylinders: 903
> > Maximum Heads: 8
> > Write Pre Comp Cyliner: 65535
> > Control Byte: 0
> > Landing Zone Cylinder: 902
> > Sectors Per Track: 46
> > Total KiloBytes: 166152
> > Total MegaBytes: 12.25781
>
> Looks like I have a little math bug when computing 'Total
MegaBytes' :-)
>
>
> Mike
>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2007 13:34:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Another Layer of the Grid Onion: LBA
All,
I'm confused again. I have a bunch of information,
but I can't make sense of it all.
1. Hard Drive. The CFS420 hard drive actually
reports as a CFA320 hard drive. I did a quick search,
and the CFA320 is a SCSI drive. This is probably not
important.
2. The drive geometry of this drive is 665 cylinders,
16 heads and 63 sectors/track. This computes to 343
MB.
When this drive is fdisk-ed and formatted in the Grid,
it reports having 771 cylders, 8 heads, and 33
sectors/track. hdlook.exe reports this same
information. Fdisk now reports the size as 99 MB.
3. If I take the drive that has been formatted in the
Grid and place it in my Pentium, its BIOS reports 1024
cylinders, 8 heads, and 33 sectors. The Pentium BIOS
reports the CHS capacity as 138 MB and the Maximum LBA
Capacity as 343 MB.
4. If I format the drive in the Pentium, I get the
full 340 MB size. If I install DOS on the drive and
then return the drive to Grid, I get a "Non-System
Disk" error.
In other words, the Grid recognized the drive, but
can't read the information on the drive.
I don't understand why the Grid lists the size as 99
MB. The CHS information is 771 cylinders, 8 heads, and
33 sectors. These values explain the 99 MB drive
size, but I cannot explain how the computer got those
values. None of those values are in any table.
Why would drive report as having 771 cylinders on the
Grid, but 1024 cylinders in the Pentium?
Does this have to do with LBA mode? I thought LBA
only applied to the way the information was indexed on
the drive. I didn't think it made any difference to
the storage capacity.
-Shawn
____________________________________________________________________________________
Any questions? Get answers on any topic at www.Answers.yahoo.com. Try it now.
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2007 19:05:25 -0600
From: Michael Brutman
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Another Layer of the Grid Onion: LBA
You can't trust the drive geometry reported by a machine - it might be
fudging things.
Old machines are limited to 16 heads and, 1024 cylinders and 63
sectors. This is because the areas in the BIOS that deal with these
values only left 4 bits, 10 bits, and 6 bits to express those values.
Add them up and you get 528MB.
Now if you had a drive that was bigger in some regard, you could lie
about one of the parameters. Most drives only have 2 or 4 platters, for
a possible total of 8 heads. If you have more than 1024 cylinders you
could lie and say you had more heads and less cylinders, and still work
with an old BIOS. Of course anything that assumed the drive really was
writing to where it said it was would be wrong, but as long as the drive
lies consistently it would be ok.
Here is a good link that explains things in detail:
http://www.ata-atapi.com/hiwchs.htm
So some questions:
- What is the geometry of the drive, as written on the label or from the
web?
- It's an IDE drive right? SCSI and IDE are not interchangeable.
A 300 or 400MB drive should work seamlessly without LBA or extended INT
13 tricks, unless it has a goofy number of cylinders or sectors per
track. If you format the drive in a modern machine, turn off the LBA
and extended INT 13 translation, and let it use good old CHS
addressing. That will make it compatible with things like the Grid.
The Grid might be assuming 17 sectors per track. If you have a drive
that has more than than, too bad .. it just becomes unused space. You
might be able to alter the drive table to use more than 17 sectors per
track and be able to use the full capacity of the drive.
Mike
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2007 18:15:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Another Layer of the Grid Onion: LBA
Thanks for the reply, Mike.
The label on the drive says 665 Cylinders, 16 Heads,
and 63 Sector/Track. That adds up to 343 MB.
The Pentium BIOS and hdlook (when run on the Pentium)
agree get the same value.
I understand the part about the "lying". But, these
values don't exceed the number of bits so no lying is
needed.
It is an IDE drive.
If the Grid is limiting the drive to 17 sectors per
track, the numbers still don't add up. It's close.
99.386719 MB (as reported from hdlook) vs. 92.61056 MB
(computed using 17 sectors/track).
How is this 286 computer getting 771 cylinders, 8
heads, and 33 sectors per track from 665 cylinders, 16
heads, 63 sectors per track????
-Shawn
--- Michael Brutman <mbbrutman@...> wrote:
>
> You can't trust the drive geometry reported by a
> machine - it might be
> fudging things.
>
> Old machines are limited to 16 heads and, 1024
> cylinders and 63
> sectors. This is because the areas in the BIOS that
> deal with these
> values only left 4 bits, 10 bits, and 6 bits to
> express those values.
> Add them up and you get 528MB.
>
> Now if you had a drive that was bigger in some
> regard, you could lie
> about one of the parameters. Most drives only have
> 2 or 4 platters, for
> a possible total of 8 heads. If you have more than
> 1024 cylinders you
> could lie and say you had more heads and less
> cylinders, and still work
> with an old BIOS. Of course anything that assumed
> the drive really was
> writing to where it said it was would be wrong, but
> as long as the drive
> lies consistently it would be ok.
>
> Here is a good link that explains things in detail:
>
> http://www.ata-atapi.com/hiwchs.htm
>
>
> So some questions:
>
> - What is the geometry of the drive, as written on
> the label or from the
> web?
> - It's an IDE drive right? SCSI and IDE are not
> interchangeable.
>
> A 300 or 400MB drive should work seamlessly without
> LBA or extended INT
> 13 tricks, unless it has a goofy number of cylinders
> or sectors per
> track. If you format the drive in a modern machine,
> turn off the LBA
> and extended INT 13 translation, and let it use good
> old CHS
> addressing. That will make it compatible with
> things like the Grid.
>
> The Grid might be assuming 17 sectors per track. If
> you have a drive
> that has more than than, too bad .. it just becomes
> unused space. You
> might be able to alter the drive table to use more
> than 17 sectors per
> track and be able to use the full capacity of the
> drive.
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> --------------------~-->
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> design.
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>
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>
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
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Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2007 23:49:04 -0500 (EST)
From: Lawrence Walker
Subject: Re:SUCcESS!!...kind of...
Bravo !! Good work Shawn. Wish I had more programming
skills so I could have helped you.
Lawrence
__________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2007 15:03:40 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re:SUCcESS!!...kind of...
Shawn,
What type of EPROM burner would be required to make the chips for
the 1520 and 1530? What type of EPROM chip would be used? I may be
able to get hold of one. Please and Thank You. :)
Jeriddian
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Lawrence Walker
<bigwalk_ca@...> wrote:
>
> Bravo !! Good work Shawn. Wish I had more programming
> skills so I could have helped you.
>
> Lawrence
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2007 07:45:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re:SUCcESS!!...kind of...
Jeriddian,
The chips are 27C128 in a 28 pin DIP package. Several
places sell them.
www.jameco.com is where I got mine. Newark
Electronics is another source but they have a 10 day
lead time. You can also find used ones on Ebay. I've
purchased a few there as well.
It looks like these are getting difficult to find. I
just checked with Digikey and Mouser and they have
discontinued this part. :(
The EPROM programmers (or, burners) are a bit more
expensive. They are about $250 to $300. I'm
"borrowing" one from my job. When I started at my job
back in 2000, we were not doing anything with DIP
packages. The programmer was sitting on a backroom
shelf until I "rescued" it.
I bought a Qualtec programmer from Ebay, but I have
damaged it. I fed it 12 Volts AC instead of 12 Volts
DC and it hasn't recovered.
Here is one place: http://www.needhams.com/
Here is another one:
http://secure.transtronics.com/EPROM%20Programmer.html
I hope this helps you out.
-Shawn
--- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
> Shawn,
> What type of EPROM burner would be required to
> make the chips for
> the 1520 and 1530? What type of EPROM chip would be
> used? I may be
> able to get hold of one. Please and Thank You. :)
>
> Jeriddian
>
> --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Lawrence
> Walker
> <bigwalk_ca@...> wrote:
> >
> > Bravo !! Good work Shawn. Wish I had more
> programming
> > skills so I could have helped you.
> >
> > Lawrence
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> --------------------~-->
> Great things are happening at Yahoo! Groups. See
> the new email design.
>
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>
--------------------------------------------------------------------~->
>
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2007 19:44:52 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re:SUCcESS!!...kind of...
Thanks, Shawn,
I'm going to look into this and probably I will spend the money
to pick one up and get the chips if I can. I'll let you know what I
get. Thanks for the info.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> Jeriddian,
> The chips are 27C128 in a 28 pin DIP package. Several
> places sell them.
> www.jameco.com is where I got mine. Newark
> Electronics is another source but they have a 10 day
> lead time. You can also find used ones on Ebay. I've
> purchased a few there as well.
> It looks like these are getting difficult to find. I
> just checked with Digikey and Mouser and they have
> discontinued this part. :(
>
> The EPROM programmers (or, burners) are a bit more
> expensive. They are about $250 to $300. I'm
> "borrowing" one from my job. When I started at my job
> back in 2000, we were not doing anything with DIP
> packages. The programmer was sitting on a backroom
> shelf until I "rescued" it.
> I bought a Qualtec programmer from Ebay, but I have
> damaged it. I fed it 12 Volts AC instead of 12 Volts
> DC and it hasn't recovered.
> Here is one place: http://www.needhams.com/
> Here is another one:
> http://secure.transtronics.com/EPROM%20Programmer.html
>
> I hope this helps you out.
> -Shawn
>
> --- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
>
> > Shawn,
> > What type of EPROM burner would be required to
> > make the chips for
> > the 1520 and 1530? What type of EPROM chip would be
> > used? I may be
> > able to get hold of one. Please and Thank You. :)
> >
> > Jeriddian
> >
> > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Lawrence
> > Walker
> > <bigwalk_ca@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Bravo !! Good work Shawn. Wish I had more
> > programming
> > > skills so I could have helped you.
> > >
> > > Lawrence
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> > protection around
> > > http://mail.yahoo.com
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > --------------------~-->
> > Great things are happening at Yahoo! Groups. See
> > the new email design.
> >
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/lOt0.A/hOaOAA/yQLSAA/f7l0lB/TM
> >
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
~->
> >
> >
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> > mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Bored stiff? Loosen up...
> Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
> http://games.yahoo.com/games/front
>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2007 23:34:16 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re:SUCcESS!!...kind of...
Sorry for the double post, Shawn.
I wanted to ask. I searched and I am finding some outlets,
including the outlets for used ones on EBAY, so I should be picking
up something here pretty soon. However I noticed there are 27C128-15
and 27C128-20. Does it make a difference which one I get? Thanks for
the help.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> Jeriddian,
> The chips are 27C128 in a 28 pin DIP package. Several
> places sell them.
> www.jameco.com is where I got mine. Newark
> Electronics is another source but they have a 10 day
> lead time. You can also find used ones on Ebay. I've
> purchased a few there as well.
> It looks like these are getting difficult to find. I
> just checked with Digikey and Mouser and they have
> discontinued this part. :(
>
> The EPROM programmers (or, burners) are a bit more
> expensive. They are about $250 to $300. I'm
> "borrowing" one from my job. When I started at my job
> back in 2000, we were not doing anything with DIP
> packages. The programmer was sitting on a backroom
> shelf until I "rescued" it.
> I bought a Qualtec programmer from Ebay, but I have
> damaged it. I fed it 12 Volts AC instead of 12 Volts
> DC and it hasn't recovered.
> Here is one place: http://www.needhams.com/
> Here is another one:
> http://secure.transtronics.com/EPROM%20Programmer.html
>
> I hope this helps you out.
> -Shawn
>
> --- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
>
> > Shawn,
> > What type of EPROM burner would be required to
> > make the chips for
> > the 1520 and 1530? What type of EPROM chip would be
> > used? I may be
> > able to get hold of one. Please and Thank You. :)
> >
> > Jeriddian
> >
> > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Lawrence
> > Walker
> > <bigwalk_ca@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Bravo !! Good work Shawn. Wish I had more
> > programming
> > > skills so I could have helped you.
> > >
> > > Lawrence
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> > protection around
> > > http://mail.yahoo.com
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > --------------------~-->
> > Great things are happening at Yahoo! Groups. See
> > the new email design.
> >
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/lOt0.A/hOaOAA/yQLSAA/f7l0lB/TM
> >
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
-~->
> >
> >
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> > mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________________
_______________
> Bored stiff? Loosen up...
> Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
> http://games.yahoo.com/games/front
>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2007 19:19:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re:SUCcESS!!...kind of...
Phil,
I do not know. The -15 means 15 mS (milli-seconds)
and the -20 means 20 mS. It is an indication of how
quickly the data can be stored into the EPROM. The
lower the number, the more quickly it can be
programmed. I am using -15's and and I have not had
any problems.
One thing I forgot to add to the list of needed
equipment is a UV (ultra violet) light to erase the
EPROMs. You will need this unless you plan to
continually use new EPROMs.
I have heard setting EPROMs in direct sunlight for 30
minutes will erase them too. I have never tried it.
Also, if I'm successful I will offer everyone the
chance to burn chips. I will do it at a to be
determined very inexpensive rate. I don't want
someone going out and spending $500 to modify a single
286 computer.
I'm doing this project because I enjoy doing this.
I'm not doing this for the money.
Maybe I'm a masochist... :)
-Shawn
--- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
> Sorry for the double post, Shawn.
> I wanted to ask. I searched and I am finding
> some outlets,
> including the outlets for used ones on EBAY, so I
> should be picking
> up something here pretty soon. However I noticed
> there are 27C128-15
> and 27C128-20. Does it make a difference which one I
> get? Thanks for
> the help.
>
> Phil
>
> --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz
> <shawnerz@...> wrote:
> >
> > Jeriddian,
> > The chips are 27C128 in a 28 pin DIP package.
> Several
> > places sell them.
> > www.jameco.com is where I got mine. Newark
> > Electronics is another source but they have a 10
> day
> > lead time. You can also find used ones on Ebay.
> I've
> > purchased a few there as well.
> > It looks like these are getting difficult to find.
> I
> > just checked with Digikey and Mouser and they have
>
> > discontinued this part. :(
> >
> > The EPROM programmers (or, burners) are a bit more
> > expensive. They are about $250 to $300. I'm
> > "borrowing" one from my job. When I started at my
> job
> > back in 2000, we were not doing anything with DIP
> > packages. The programmer was sitting on a
> backroom
> > shelf until I "rescued" it.
> > I bought a Qualtec programmer from Ebay, but I
> have
> > damaged it. I fed it 12 Volts AC instead of 12
> Volts
> > DC and it hasn't recovered.
> > Here is one place: http://www.needhams.com/
> > Here is another one:
> >
>
http://secure.transtronics.com/EPROM%20Programmer.html
> >
> > I hope this helps you out.
> > -Shawn
> >
> > --- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
> >
> > > Shawn,
> > > What type of EPROM burner would be required
> to
> > > make the chips for
> > > the 1520 and 1530? What type of EPROM chip would
> be
> > > used? I may be
> > > able to get hold of one. Please and Thank You.
> :)
> > >
> > > Jeriddian
> > >
> > > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Lawrence
> > > Walker
> > > <bigwalk_ca@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Bravo !! Good work Shawn. Wish I had more
> > > programming
> > > > skills so I could have helped you.
> > > >
> > > > Lawrence
> > > >
> > > >
> __________________________________________________
> > > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> > > protection around
> > > > http://mail.yahoo.com
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > --------------------~-->
> > > Great things are happening at Yahoo! Groups.
> See
> > > the new email design.
> > >
> >
>
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> > >
> >
>
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> -~->
> > >
> > >
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
_____________________________________________________________________
> _______________
> > Bored stiff? Loosen up...
> > Download and play hundreds of games for free on
> Yahoo! Games.
> > http://games.yahoo.com/games/front
> >
>
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>
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>
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> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
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>
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Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2007 14:56:33 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re:SUCcESS!!...kind of...
Shawn,
Yeah, I kind of figured it was the speed of the chip that was
being indicated, although the speed of the chips I found for sale
were 120 ns, 150 ns, and 200 ns, so I suppose the numbers refer to
that. Anyway, I'm looking at picking some 15's. I've also been
getting a look at some of the erasers, too, since it looks like the
27C128 were not that popular a chip and are getting more scarce, so I
am probably going to have to get used ones. The 27C256's are more
popular and apparently less rare, and I have run across a procedure
where they can be substituted for the 27C128 by making sure the
starting address for readng the chip is at 4000H.
I remember from way back how EPROM's supposedly can be erased just by
exposure to the sun for half a minute, but I'm looking into getting
an eraser too. And like you, I'm not doing this for the money. I will
plan on burning the chips for my 1530's and getting them going and
then offer the service myself pretty much at cost to others.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> Phil,
> I do not know. The -15 means 15 mS (milli-seconds)
> and the -20 means 20 mS. It is an indication of how
> quickly the data can be stored into the EPROM. The
> lower the number, the more quickly it can be
> programmed. I am using -15's and and I have not had
> any problems.
>
> One thing I forgot to add to the list of needed
> equipment is a UV (ultra violet) light to erase the
> EPROMs. You will need this unless you plan to
> continually use new EPROMs.
> I have heard setting EPROMs in direct sunlight for 30
> minutes will erase them too. I have never tried it.
>
> Also, if I'm successful I will offer everyone the
> chance to burn chips. I will do it at a to be
> determined very inexpensive rate. I don't want
> someone going out and spending $500 to modify a single
> 286 computer.
> I'm doing this project because I enjoy doing this.
> I'm not doing this for the money.
> Maybe I'm a masochist... :)
>
> -Shawn
>
> --- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
>
> > Sorry for the double post, Shawn.
> > I wanted to ask. I searched and I am finding
> > some outlets,
> > including the outlets for used ones on EBAY, so I
> > should be picking
> > up something here pretty soon. However I noticed
> > there are 27C128-15
> > and 27C128-20. Does it make a difference which one I
> > get? Thanks for
> > the help.
> >
> > Phil
> >
> > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz
> > <shawnerz@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Jeriddian,
> > > The chips are 27C128 in a 28 pin DIP package.
> > Several
> > > places sell them.
> > > www.jameco.com is where I got mine. Newark
> > > Electronics is another source but they have a 10
> > day
> > > lead time. You can also find used ones on Ebay.
> > I've
> > > purchased a few there as well.
> > > It looks like these are getting difficult to find.
> > I
> > > just checked with Digikey and Mouser and they have
> >
> > > discontinued this part. :(
> > >
> > > The EPROM programmers (or, burners) are a bit more
> > > expensive. They are about $250 to $300. I'm
> > > "borrowing" one from my job. When I started at my
> > job
> > > back in 2000, we were not doing anything with DIP
> > > packages. The programmer was sitting on a
> > backroom
> > > shelf until I "rescued" it.
> > > I bought a Qualtec programmer from Ebay, but I
> > have
> > > damaged it. I fed it 12 Volts AC instead of 12
> > Volts
> > > DC and it hasn't recovered.
> > > Here is one place: http://www.needhams.com/
> > > Here is another one:
> > >
> >
> http://secure.transtronics.com/EPROM%20Programmer.html
> > >
> > > I hope this helps you out.
> > > -Shawn
> > >
> > > --- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Shawn,
> > > > What type of EPROM burner would be required
> > to
> > > > make the chips for
> > > > the 1520 and 1530? What type of EPROM chip would
> > be
> > > > used? I may be
> > > > able to get hold of one. Please and Thank You.
> > :)
> > > >
> > > > Jeriddian
> > > >
> > > > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Lawrence
> > > > Walker
> > > > <bigwalk_ca@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Bravo !! Good work Shawn. Wish I had more
> > > > programming
> > > > > skills so I could have helped you.
> > > > >
> > > > > Lawrence
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > __________________________________________________
> > > > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> > > > protection around
> > > > > http://mail.yahoo.com
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > > --------------------~-->
> > > > Great things are happening at Yahoo! Groups.
> > See
> > > > the new email design.
> > > >
> > >
> >
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/lOt0.A/hOaOAA/yQLSAA/f7l0lB/TM
> > > >
> > >
> >
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> > -~->
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
_____________________________________________________________________
> > _______________
> > > Bored stiff? Loosen up...
> > > Download and play hundreds of games for free on
> > Yahoo! Games.
> > > http://games.yahoo.com/games/front
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > --------------------~-->
> > Check out the new improvements in Yahoo! Groups
> > email.
> >
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/4It09A/fOaOAA/yQLSAA/f7l0lB/TM
> >
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
~->
> >
> >
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> > mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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>
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2007 09:32:59 -0800 (PST)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re:SUCcESS!!...kind of...
Phil,
You know, when I first wrote my response, I wrote it
as 150 mS and 120 mS. But, I looked it over and
thought, "That seems like a very long time. 12 and 15
mS sounds more like it."
I was too lazy to check the data sheet so, I changed
it.
So, I guess I was wrong. I should have went with my
first instinct...
I have 1 27C256 chip but I've never tried to see if it
will work in the Grid. Without actually trying
anything, it seems that you would want to use lower
16K and not the upper 16K.
The 27C128 users addresses $0000 to $3FFF. The 27C256
uses $0000 to $7FFF. It seems you would want to keep
the starting range at $0000 so all of the data in the
$0000 to $3FFF range on the -256.
One day, when I get even more free time, I'll try it
out...
Take care,
-Shawn
--- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
> Shawn,
> Yeah, I kind of figured it was the speed of the
> chip that was
> being indicated, although the speed of the chips I
> found for sale
> were 120 ns, 150 ns, and 200 ns, so I suppose the
> numbers refer to
> that. Anyway, I'm looking at picking some 15's. I've
> also been
> getting a look at some of the erasers, too, since it
> looks like the
> 27C128 were not that popular a chip and are getting
> more scarce, so I
> am probably going to have to get used ones. The
> 27C256's are more
> popular and apparently less rare, and I have run
> across a procedure
> where they can be substituted for the 27C128 by
> making sure the
> starting address for readng the chip is at 4000H.
>
> I remember from way back how EPROM's supposedly can
> be erased just by
> exposure to the sun for half a minute, but I'm
> looking into getting
> an eraser too. And like you, I'm not doing this for
> the money. I will
> plan on burning the chips for my 1530's and getting
> them going and
> then offer the service myself pretty much at cost to
> others.
>
> Phil
>
> --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz
> <shawnerz@...> wrote:
> >
> > Phil,
> > I do not know. The -15 means 15 mS
> (milli-seconds)
> > and the -20 means 20 mS. It is an indication of
> how
> > quickly the data can be stored into the EPROM.
> The
> > lower the number, the more quickly it can be
> > programmed. I am using -15's and and I have not
> had
> > any problems.
> >
> > One thing I forgot to add to the list of needed
> > equipment is a UV (ultra violet) light to erase
> the
> > EPROMs. You will need this unless you plan to
> > continually use new EPROMs.
> > I have heard setting EPROMs in direct sunlight for
> 30
> > minutes will erase them too. I have never tried
> it.
> >
> > Also, if I'm successful I will offer everyone the
> > chance to burn chips. I will do it at a to be
> > determined very inexpensive rate. I don't want
> > someone going out and spending $500 to modify a
> single
> > 286 computer.
> > I'm doing this project because I enjoy doing this.
>
> > I'm not doing this for the money.
> > Maybe I'm a masochist... :)
> >
> > -Shawn
> >
> > --- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
> >
> > > Sorry for the double post, Shawn.
> > > I wanted to ask. I searched and I am finding
> > > some outlets,
> > > including the outlets for used ones on EBAY, so
> I
> > > should be picking
> > > up something here pretty soon. However I noticed
> > > there are 27C128-15
> > > and 27C128-20. Does it make a difference which
> one I
> > > get? Thanks for
> > > the help.
> > >
> > > Phil
> > >
> > > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz
> > > <shawnerz@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Jeriddian,
> > > > The chips are 27C128 in a 28 pin DIP package.
> > > Several
> > > > places sell them.
> > > > www.jameco.com is where I got mine. Newark
> > > > Electronics is another source but they have a
> 10
> > > day
> > > > lead time. You can also find used ones on
> Ebay.
> > > I've
> > > > purchased a few there as well.
> > > > It looks like these are getting difficult to
> find.
> > > I
> > > > just checked with Digikey and Mouser and they
> have
> > >
> > > > discontinued this part. :(
> > > >
> > > > The EPROM programmers (or, burners) are a bit
> more
> > > > expensive. They are about $250 to $300. I'm
> > > > "borrowing" one from my job. When I started
> at my
> > > job
> > > > back in 2000, we were not doing anything with
> DIP
> > > > packages. The programmer was sitting on a
> > > backroom
> > > > shelf until I "rescued" it.
> > > > I bought a Qualtec programmer from Ebay, but I
> > > have
> > > > damaged it. I fed it 12 Volts AC instead of
> 12
> > > Volts
> > > > DC and it hasn't recovered.
> > > > Here is one place: http://www.needhams.com/
> > > > Here is another one:
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
http://secure.transtronics.com/EPROM%20Programmer.html
> > > >
> > > > I hope this helps you out.
> > > > -Shawn
> > > >
> > > > --- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Shawn,
> > > > > What type of EPROM burner would be
> required
> > > to
> > > > > make the chips for
> > > > > the 1520 and 1530? What type of EPROM chip
> would
> > > be
> > > > > used? I may be
> > > > > able to get hold of one. Please and Thank
> You.
> > > :)
> > > > >
> > > > > Jeriddian
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com,
> Lawrence
> > > > > Walker
> > > > > <bigwalk_ca@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Bravo !! Good work Shawn. Wish I had more
> > > > > programming
> > > > > > skills so I could have helped you.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Lawrence
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > >
> __________________________________________________
> > > > > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > > > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best
> spam
> > > > > protection around
> > > > > > http://mail.yahoo.com
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
> Sponsor
> > > > > --------------------~-->
> > > > > Great things are happening at Yahoo! Groups.
>
> > > See
> > > > > the new email design.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
http://us.click.yahoo.com/lOt0.A/hOaOAA/yQLSAA/f7l0lB/TM
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > -~->
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
>
>
=== message truncated ===
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Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2007 00:00:19 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re:SUCcESS!!...kind of...
Shawn,
No prob. The 150 ns chips should do fine. As to programming the
27C256 chips for the 27C128 job, I'll give you the following address:
www.tunercat.com/tnr_desc/eprom_pin/eprom_pins.html
That's where I read about having to program the back end of the chip
to do the job correctly. John Gantt turned me on to an auction for a
burner, but I lost that auction, so I'll have to buy another one,
but I think I've already found one anyway.
I'm out of town right now, but when I get back next week, I should
have the unit and I'll see what my 1530 chips look like and
determine if they are 27C128's after all, and see what's on them.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> Phil,
> You know, when I first wrote my response, I wrote it
> as 150 mS and 120 mS. But, I looked it over and
> thought, "That seems like a very long time. 12 and 15
> mS sounds more like it."
> I was too lazy to check the data sheet so, I changed
> it.
> So, I guess I was wrong. I should have went with my
> first instinct...
>
> I have 1 27C256 chip but I've never tried to see if it
> will work in the Grid. Without actually trying
> anything, it seems that you would want to use lower
> 16K and not the upper 16K.
> The 27C128 users addresses $0000 to $3FFF. The 27C256
> uses $0000 to $7FFF. It seems you would want to keep
> the starting range at $0000 so all of the data in the
> $0000 to $3FFF range on the -256.
> One day, when I get even more free time, I'll try it
> out...
>
> Take care,
> -Shawn
>
> --- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
>
> > Shawn,
> > Yeah, I kind of figured it was the speed of the
> > chip that was
> > being indicated, although the speed of the chips I
> > found for sale
> > were 120 ns, 150 ns, and 200 ns, so I suppose the
> > numbers refer to
> > that. Anyway, I'm looking at picking some 15's. I've
> > also been
> > getting a look at some of the erasers, too, since it
> > looks like the
> > 27C128 were not that popular a chip and are getting
> > more scarce, so I
> > am probably going to have to get used ones. The
> > 27C256's are more
> > popular and apparently less rare, and I have run
> > across a procedure
> > where they can be substituted for the 27C128 by
> > making sure the
> > starting address for readng the chip is at 4000H.
> >
> > I remember from way back how EPROM's supposedly can
> > be erased just by
> > exposure to the sun for half a minute, but I'm
> > looking into getting
> > an eraser too. And like you, I'm not doing this for
> > the money. I will
> > plan on burning the chips for my 1530's and getting
> > them going and
> > then offer the service myself pretty much at cost to
> > others.
> >
> > Phil
> >
> > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz
> > <shawnerz@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Phil,
> > > I do not know. The -15 means 15 mS
> > (milli-seconds)
> > > and the -20 means 20 mS. It is an indication of
> > how
> > > quickly the data can be stored into the EPROM.
> > The
> > > lower the number, the more quickly it can be
> > > programmed. I am using -15's and and I have not
> > had
> > > any problems.
> > >
> > > One thing I forgot to add to the list of needed
> > > equipment is a UV (ultra violet) light to erase
> > the
> > > EPROMs. You will need this unless you plan to
> > > continually use new EPROMs.
> > > I have heard setting EPROMs in direct sunlight for
> > 30
> > > minutes will erase them too. I have never tried
> > it.
> > >
> > > Also, if I'm successful I will offer everyone the
> > > chance to burn chips. I will do it at a to be
> > > determined very inexpensive rate. I don't want
> > > someone going out and spending $500 to modify a
> > single
> > > 286 computer.
> > > I'm doing this project because I enjoy doing this.
> >
> > > I'm not doing this for the money.
> > > Maybe I'm a masochist... :)
> > >
> > > -Shawn
> > >
> > > --- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Sorry for the double post, Shawn.
> > > > I wanted to ask. I searched and I am finding
> > > > some outlets,
> > > > including the outlets for used ones on EBAY, so
> > I
> > > > should be picking
> > > > up something here pretty soon. However I noticed
> > > > there are 27C128-15
> > > > and 27C128-20. Does it make a difference which
> > one I
> > > > get? Thanks for
> > > > the help.
> > > >
> > > > Phil
> > > >
> > > > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz
> > > > <shawnerz@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Jeriddian,
> > > > > The chips are 27C128 in a 28 pin DIP package.
> > > > Several
> > > > > places sell them.
> > > > > www.jameco.com is where I got mine. Newark
> > > > > Electronics is another source but they have a
> > 10
> > > > day
> > > > > lead time. You can also find used ones on
> > Ebay.
> > > > I've
> > > > > purchased a few there as well.
> > > > > It looks like these are getting difficult to
> > find.
> > > > I
> > > > > just checked with Digikey and Mouser and they
> > have
> > > >
> > > > > discontinued this part. :(
> > > > >
> > > > > The EPROM programmers (or, burners) are a bit
> > more
> > > > > expensive. They are about $250 to $300. I'm
> > > > > "borrowing" one from my job. When I started
> > at my
> > > > job
> > > > > back in 2000, we were not doing anything with
> > DIP
> > > > > packages. The programmer was sitting on a
> > > > backroom
> > > > > shelf until I "rescued" it.
> > > > > I bought a Qualtec programmer from Ebay, but I
> > > > have
> > > > > damaged it. I fed it 12 Volts AC instead of
> > 12
> > > > Volts
> > > > > DC and it hasn't recovered.
> > > > > Here is one place: http://www.needhams.com/
> > > > > Here is another one:
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> http://secure.transtronics.com/EPROM%20Programmer.html
> > > > >
> > > > > I hope this helps you out.
> > > > > -Shawn
> > > > >
> > > > > --- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Shawn,
> > > > > > What type of EPROM burner would be
> > required
> > > > to
> > > > > > make the chips for
> > > > > > the 1520 and 1530? What type of EPROM chip
> > would
> > > > be
> > > > > > used? I may be
> > > > > > able to get hold of one. Please and Thank
> > You.
> > > > :)
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Jeriddian
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com,
> > Lawrence
> > > > > > Walker
> > > > > > <bigwalk_ca@> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Bravo !! Good work Shawn. Wish I had more
> > > > > > programming
> > > > > > > skills so I could have helped you.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Lawrence
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > >
> > __________________________________________________
> > > > > > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > > > > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best
> > spam
> > > > > > protection around
> > > > > > > http://mail.yahoo.com
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> > > > > >
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Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2007 19:05:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Larger Hard Drives in a 1520 (Success...finally)
All,
I was able to get the my Grid 1520 to boot from a 340
MB hard drive AND recognize all 340 MB!!
The short version of the story is the drive parameters
of the drive that you want to boot from, has to be the
2nd entry in the drive table.
The long version of the story:
Note: I am going to refer to the hard drive that you
wish to install in your Grid as the "new" hard drive.
The "default" hard drive is one of the Conner hard
drives that the Grid recognizes by default.
The hard drive parameter table has 23 entries for 23
different hard drive types. According to hdlook.exe,
HD1 gets loaded with the first table entry and HD0
gets the second table entry. I would have expected
HD0 to be the first and HD1 to be the second, but that
is not the case.
I made a couple of assumptions. One of them turned
out to be wrong. First, I thought as long as the new
hard drive parameters of your new hard drive is in the
table, anywhere in the table, the Grid will recognize
all of it AND boot from it.
The reality is if the new hard drive parameters are in
the table, the Grid can boot from it, but it will not
"see" all of the drive space. The new hard drive
parameters have to be the 2nd table entry.
When I first entered the parameters for my 340 MB hard
drive, I diliberatly did not use the first two table
entries. The first table entry is for a default 10 MB
drive. The second entry of for the CP3024 20 MB
drive. I thought I was being safe by not using those
two table entries. I was wrong.
I did some testing, and I got some unexpected results.
I couldn't wait until tonight to get some time to
test out another idea. It worked!
It is possible that the new hard drive parameters
could be entered into the first table entry. I might
try that this weekend if I get some time. Right now,
I'm just very happy to have MS-DOS 6.22 installed on
my Grid and have 335,962,112 bytes free!
-Shawn
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2007 16:17:37 -0600
From: Charles Ford
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re:SUCcESS!!...kind of...
Phil, Shawn:
The extention number on the ROM package is access time (has nothing to
do with programing)
15 = 150 nS, 20 = 200 nS and so on.
For the 1520 you will need to have an access time of 400nS or better
(that is a 40 or less)
For the 1530 you will need 250nS or better (less than 25 on the package)
Shawnerz wrote:
>
> Phil,
> I do not know. The -15 means 15 mS (milli-seconds)
> and the -20 means 20 mS. It is an indication of how
> quickly the data can be stored into the EPROM. The
> lower the number, the more quickly it can be
> programmed. I am using -15's and and I have not had
> any problems.
>
Date: Fri, 02 Mar 2007 00:46:59 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re:SUCcESS!!...kind of...
Thanks, Charles
I appreciate the info.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Charles Ford <cjford1@...>
wrote:
>
> Phil, Shawn:
> The extention number on the ROM package is access time (has
nothing to
> do with programing)
> 15 = 150 nS, 20 = 200 nS and so on.
> For the 1520 you will need to have an access time of 400nS or
better
> (that is a 40 or less)
> For the 1530 you will need 250nS or better (less than 25 on the
package)
>
> Shawnerz wrote:
> >
> > Phil,
> > I do not know. The -15 means 15 mS (milli-seconds)
> > and the -20 means 20 mS. It is an indication of how
> > quickly the data can be stored into the EPROM. The
> > lower the number, the more quickly it can be
> > programmed. I am using -15's and and I have not had
> > any problems.
> >
>
Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2007 22:59:56 -0800 (PST)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Reprogramming 1520 BIOS For Larger Hard Drives
This procedure is written for the Grid 1520 computer.
It will probably work with any 15XX flavor of Grid.
However, the address locations will be different.
This procedure is to give a step-by-step instruction
showing how to enable the Grid 1520 to see just about
any hard drive up to XXX MB.
At the time of this writing (March 2007), 3 different
BIOS versions for the 1520 have been identified.
"Revision 1" has checksums DE00 (Even) and 0B00 (Odd).
"Revision 2" has checksums 7A00 (Even) and 2F00 (Odd).
"Revision 3" has checksums 437C (Even) and DD00 (Odd).
Materials needed:
Grid 1520 computer
Standard PC desktop
Hex editor
EPROM programmer (with associated cables)
Blank 27C128 EPROMs (minimum of 2)
Floppy disk with hdlook.exe
Phillips and flat blade (or slotted) screwdrivers
Optional Equipment:
UV EPROM eraser
Soldering iron and the ability to remove and replace
28 pin DIP ICs.
IC Puller
Overall notes:
I will start by saying this is not an easy process.
Depending on the version of your Grid motherboard, you
may need very good soldering skills to remove the
original EPROMs. The original EPROMs may be soldered
to the motherboard. I have 4, 1520's. 2 of the
motherboards have the BIOS (E)PROM's soldered, and 2
have the chips in low profile sockets.
This process assumes you have a hex editor installed
on the PC. You also need to be familiar working with
your hex editor. You will have to computer checksums,
merge files, search, edit, save and split files. I
used WinHex (availble at
www.winhex.com/winhex/index-m.html)
Hdlook.exe is a program written by Mike Brutman and is
available here: www.brutman.com/hdlook.zip
Here are the general steps:
1. Get the model number of the hard drive.
A. Take the "new" hard drive, install it into the PC
computer along with the hard drive that the computer
boots from. Get into the PC BIOS setup screen and see
what model number is listed for the hard drive. On
some hard drives, the number printed on the label is
different that the model number that is reported to
the computer.
B. Write down the model number.
2. Get the hard drive parameters.
A. Exit BIOS setup on the PC and let the computer
boot normally. Run hdlook.exe on the floppy disk.
Hdlook.exe will display information for *two* hard
drives. One of the list of parameters should be for
the hard drive that the PC booted from and one list
should be for the *new* hard drive that will be going
into the Grid. Locate the parameters for the *new*
hard drive that will will going into the Grid. Write
down lines 3 through 8 (from Cylinders to Sectors).
B. Shut down the PC, remove the new hard drive,
power up the PC, and allow it to boot normally.
3. Remove the BIOS EPROMS from the Grid.
A. If you've never opened your Grid, now is the
time. There are two hidden screws at the rear of the
Grid. They are under the plastic/rubber feet by the
power switch and the parallel port.
Once the screws are removed, pull up and remove the
top cover. Next, remove the display from its guides.
Then, remove the hard plastic top cover that surrounds
the keyboard. Some force is needed to pull it from
the latches near the keyboard. Use care to not break
the plastic.
B. Next, remove the keyboard. You will have to
remove the screws that hold the latches that keep the
display in the closed position.
C. The 2 BIOS EPROMs are located under the
keyboard. Depending on the revision of your
motherboard, the EPROMs may be sockets or they may be
soldered to the motherboard.
Using a small screwdriver, gently pry the chips from
the motherboard. If they start to move out, try to
keep even pressure on the chips to keep from bending
the pins.
If the chips does not come out of the board, then it
is soldered in place. The BIOS EPROMs have to be
unsoldered from the board. The entire motherboard has
to be removed from the chassis. To remove the
motherboard, every screw has to be removed to remove
the motherboard.
4. Read and merge the EPROMs.
A. Place one of the EPROMs in the EPROM programmer.
Read the contents of the chip and save it to a file.
Do the same for the other EPROM chip.
B. Start your hex editor and merge the two files
into a single file. In WinHex, do this by: File
Manager | Unify | Bytewise (8 Bit). Select the first
EPROM file, then select the second EPROM file.
WinHex will then prompt you to name the merged file.
5. Edit the file.
A. First, the text table must changed. Open the
merged file in the hex editor.
If you have Revision 1 BIOS, go to address $5038.
There should be three hard drives listed. Enter the
model number that you wrote down from step 1B.
If you have Revision 2 BIOS, go to address $754C.
There should be six hard drives listed. Enter the
model number that you wrote down from step 1B.
If you have Revision 3 BIOS, go to address $763C.
There should be six hard drives listed. Enter the
model number that you wrote down from step 1B.
In all cases, the text table will have 3 to 6 Conner
disk drive types. Example: CP322CP344CP3104. Locate
one drive type and change it to match the model number
you wrote down in step 1B.
*Warning*: It is OK to overwrite part of the next
entry. But, DO NOT MAKE THIS TEXT TABLE ANY LONGER.
For example, "CFS3204344CP3104" is OK. However,
"CP322CP344CFS3204" is NOT OK because the table is now
one byte longer.
B. Next, the drive table needs to be changed.
On the PC, start Windows Calculator. If it is not in
Scientific view, change it by selecting View |
Scientific.
The values obtained in step 2A need to be converted to
hexadecimal. Do this by entering the value into
Windows Calculator, and then select the Hex button.
For example, a Cylinders value of 665, will be 299 in
hex. Convert all 5 values from step 2A to hex.
C. "Little Endian" Conversion. The values above
255 (FF) from the previous step need to be converted
to "Little Endian" notation. For example, 665
(decimal) becomes 299 in hex. 299 becomes 99 02 in
Little Endian. 4AC becomes AC 04. 2AED becomes ED
2A.
D. Compute the new drive values. Depending on the
BIOS revision, there is a table that lists parameters
for anywhere from 23 to 30 different drive types.
There are 16 bytes for each table entry. The table is
in the following format:
Byte Number
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
CYLD H R R PRECP R CT R R R LZ LZ ST R
CYLD = Cylinders
H = Heads
R = Reserved
PRECP = Precomp
CT = Control Byte
LZ = Landing Zone
ST = Sectors Per Track
As an example, assume a hard drive has the following
parameters:
665 cylinders, 16 heads, Landing Zone is located at
664, Pre-Comp is 65535, Control Byte is 08, and the
Sectors per track is 63.
After hex conversion:
299 cylinders, 10 heads, Landing Zone is 298, Pre-Comp
is FFFF, Control is 08, and the Sectors is 3F.
After Little Endian conversion:
9902 cylinders, 10 heads, Landing Zone is 9802,
Pre-Comp is FFFF, Control is 08, and Sectors is 3F.
After formatting for the table enry (the Reserved
values stay at 00):
99 02 10 00 00 FF FF 00 08 00 00 00 98 02 3F 00
Write down the converted values for your new drive.
6. Editing the drive table.
A. In all 3 BIOS versions the drive table begins at
adress $6401 and ends at $66F0.
B. Go to the second table entry at address $6411.
Replace the entry with the values from step 5D.
For example:
67 02 04 00 00 2C 01 00 00 00 00 00 67 02 11 00
would become:
99 02 10 00 00 FF FF 00 08 00 00 00 98 02 3F 00
C. Save this file.
7. Split the file.
A. This file now needs to separated into two files,
one odd and one even. This is done in WinHex by
selecting File Manager | Disect | Bytewise (8 bit).
WinHex will then prompt you for the file to be split,
and then prompt you for the name of the file name of
the new files.
8. Compute and Correct the Checksums.
A. Load one of the split files and compute its
checksum. To compute the checksum in WinHex, select
Tools | Calculate Hash | Checksum (16 bit), or
CTRL-F2. The checksum of the file must equal the
original value before the file was edited. For
example, if you were editing the Revision 1, Odd file,
the checksum must equal 0B00.
After editing, let's assume the checksum is now 0BC2.
There is a copyright notice at the begininning of the
file that is never seen. This text can be changed to
restore the checksum to its original value. For
example, "43 6F 70 79" can be changed to "00 00 00 1A"
in order to restore the checksum value.
B. Once the checksum has been corrected, save the
file and repeated the process for the remaining file.
9. Burn new EPROMs and boot the Grid.
A. Load the files into the EPROM programmer and
program new EPROMs. Place these EPROMS in the Grid.
B. Slide the new drive in to the adapter board that
is connected to the floppy drive. The hard drive
should slide into the bottom of that board.
C. Put a bootable floopy disk into the drive and
apply power. If everything was done properly the
computer should boot. You may have to press the "F"
key to get the Grid to boot from the floppy drive.
D. You should be able to run "fdisk" and then
"format" your new hard drive.
Good luck,
-Shawn
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2007 14:50:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Serial Port Info
All,
This came in from a new member:
<lamb@...>
>Comment from user:
>recently purchased 1520 to program motorola radio and
>loooking for serial port info
Jim,
Welcome to the group.
What kind of serial port info are you looking for?
Everything is pretty much located at the standard
interrupts/port addresses.
-Shawn
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Date: 3 Mar 2007 22:55:50 -0000
From: RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com
Subject: New file uploaded to RuGRiD-Laptop
Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the RuGRiD-Laptop
group.
File : /1520 Hard Drive Reprograming Instructions.txt
Uploaded by : Shawnerz <shawnerz@...>
Description : 1520 BIOS Editing Procedure
You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RuGRiD-Laptop/files/1520%20Hard%20Drive%20Reprograming%20Instructions.txt
To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files
Regards,
Shawnerz <shawnerz@...>
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2007 22:05:09 -0600
From: Charles Ford
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Reprogramming 1520 BIOS For Larger Hard Drives
Got it....
I will see about patching it in (probably on spring break)
Shawnerz wrote:
>
> This procedure is written for the Grid 1520 computer.
> It will probably work with any 15XX flavor of Grid.
> However, the address locations will be different.
>
> This procedure is to give a step-by-step instruction
> showing how to enable the Grid 1520 to see just about
> any hard drive up to XXX MB.
>
> At the time of this writing (March 2007), 3 different
> BIOS versions for the 1520 have been identified.
> "Revision 1" has checksums DE00 (Even) and 0B00 (Odd).
>
> "Revision 2" has checksums 7A00 (Even) and 2F00 (Odd).
>
> "Revision 3" has checksums 437C (Even) and DD00 (Odd).
>
> Materials needed:
> Grid 1520 computer
> Standard PC desktop
> Hex editor
> EPROM programmer (with associated cables)
> Blank 27C128 EPROMs (minimum of 2)
> Floppy disk with hdlook.exe
> Phillips and flat blade (or slotted) screwdrivers
>
> Optional Equipment:
> UV EPROM eraser
> Soldering iron and the ability to remove and replace
> 28 pin DIP ICs.
> IC Puller
>
> Overall notes:
> I will start by saying this is not an easy process.
> Depending on the version of your Grid motherboard, you
> may need very good soldering skills to remove the
> original EPROMs. The original EPROMs may be soldered
> to the motherboard. I have 4, 1520's. 2 of the
> motherboards have the BIOS (E)PROM's soldered, and 2
> have the chips in low profile sockets.
>
> This process assumes you have a hex editor installed
> on the PC. You also need to be familiar working with
> your hex editor. You will have to computer checksums,
> merge files, search, edit, save and split files. I
> used WinHex (availble at
> www.winhex.com/winhex/index-m.html)
>
> Hdlook.exe is a program written by Mike Brutman and is
> available here: www.brutman.com/hdlook.zip
>
> Here are the general steps:
> 1. Get the model number of the hard drive.
> A. Take the "new" hard drive, install it into the PC
> computer along with the hard drive that the computer
> boots from. Get into the PC BIOS setup screen and see
> what model number is listed for the hard drive. On
> some hard drives, the number printed on the label is
> different that the model number that is reported to
> the computer.
> B. Write down the model number.
>
> 2. Get the hard drive parameters.
> A. Exit BIOS setup on the PC and let the computer
> boot normally. Run hdlook.exe on the floppy disk.
> Hdlook.exe will display information for *two* hard
> drives. One of the list of parameters should be for
> the hard drive that the PC booted from and one list
> should be for the *new* hard drive that will be going
> into the Grid. Locate the parameters for the *new*
> hard drive that will will going into the Grid. Write
> down lines 3 through 8 (from Cylinders to Sectors).
> B. Shut down the PC, remove the new hard drive,
> power up the PC, and allow it to boot normally.
>
> 3. Remove the BIOS EPROMS from the Grid.
> A. If you've never opened your Grid, now is the
> time. There are two hidden screws at the rear of the
> Grid. They are under the plastic/rubber feet by the
> power switch and the parallel port.
> Once the screws are removed, pull up and remove the
> top cover. Next, remove the display from its guides.
> Then, remove the hard plastic top cover that surrounds
> the keyboard. Some force is needed to pull it from
> the latches near the keyboard. Use care to not break
> the plastic.
> B. Next, remove the keyboard. You will have to
> remove the screws that hold the latches that keep the
> display in the closed position.
> C. The 2 BIOS EPROMs are located under the
> keyboard. Depending on the revision of your
> motherboard, the EPROMs may be sockets or they may be
> soldered to the motherboard.
> Using a small screwdriver, gently pry the chips from
> the motherboard. If they start to move out, try to
> keep even pressure on the chips to keep from bending
> the pins.
> If the chips does not come out of the board, then it
> is soldered in place. The BIOS EPROMs have to be
> unsoldered from the board. The entire motherboard has
> to be removed from the chassis. To remove the
> motherboard, every screw has to be removed to remove
> the motherboard.
>
> 4. Read and merge the EPROMs.
> A. Place one of the EPROMs in the EPROM programmer.
> Read the contents of the chip and save it to a file.
> Do the same for the other EPROM chip.
> B. Start your hex editor and merge the two files
> into a single file. In WinHex, do this by: File
> Manager | Unify | Bytewise (8 Bit). Select the first
> EPROM file, then select the second EPROM file.
> WinHex will then prompt you to name the merged file.
>
> 5. Edit the file.
> A. First, the text table must changed. Open the
> merged file in the hex editor.
> If you have Revision 1 BIOS, go to address $5038.
> There should be three hard drives listed. Enter the
> model number that you wrote down from step 1B.
>
> If you have Revision 2 BIOS, go to address $754C.
> There should be six hard drives listed. Enter the
> model number that you wrote down from step 1B.
>
> If you have Revision 3 BIOS, go to address $763C.
> There should be six hard drives listed. Enter the
> model number that you wrote down from step 1B.
>
> In all cases, the text table will have 3 to 6 Conner
> disk drive types. Example: CP322CP344CP3104. Locate
> one drive type and change it to match the model number
> you wrote down in step 1B.
> *Warning*: It is OK to overwrite part of the next
> entry. But, DO NOT MAKE THIS TEXT TABLE ANY LONGER.
> For example, "CFS3204344CP3104" is OK. However,
> "CP322CP344CFS3204" is NOT OK because the table is now
> one byte longer.
>
> B. Next, the drive table needs to be changed.
> On the PC, start Windows Calculator. If it is not in
> Scientific view, change it by selecting View |
> Scientific.
> The values obtained in step 2A need to be converted to
> hexadecimal. Do this by entering the value into
> Windows Calculator, and then select the Hex button.
> For example, a Cylinders value of 665, will be 299 in
> hex. Convert all 5 values from step 2A to hex.
>
> C. "Little Endian" Conversion. The values above
> 255 (FF) from the previous step need to be converted
> to "Little Endian" notation. For example, 665
> (decimal) becomes 299 in hex. 299 becomes 99 02 in
> Little Endian. 4AC becomes AC 04. 2AED becomes ED
> 2A.
>
> D. Compute the new drive values. Depending on the
> BIOS revision, there is a table that lists parameters
> for anywhere from 23 to 30 different drive types.
> There are 16 bytes for each table entry. The table is
> in the following format:
> Byte Number
> 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
> CYLD H R R PRECP R CT R R R LZ LZ ST R
>
> CYLD = Cylinders
> H = Heads
> R = Reserved
> PRECP = Precomp
> CT = Control Byte
> LZ = Landing Zone
> ST = Sectors Per Track
>
> As an example, assume a hard drive has the following
> parameters:
> 665 cylinders, 16 heads, Landing Zone is located at
> 664, Pre-Comp is 65535, Control Byte is 08, and the
> Sectors per track is 63.
> After hex conversion:
> 299 cylinders, 10 heads, Landing Zone is 298, Pre-Comp
> is FFFF, Control is 08, and the Sectors is 3F.
> After Little Endian conversion:
> 9902 cylinders, 10 heads, Landing Zone is 9802,
> Pre-Comp is FFFF, Control is 08, and Sectors is 3F.
> After formatting for the table enry (the Reserved
> values stay at 00):
> 99 02 10 00 00 FF FF 00 08 00 00 00 98 02 3F 00
>
> Write down the converted values for your new drive.
>
> 6. Editing the drive table.
> A. In all 3 BIOS versions the drive table begins at
> adress $6401 and ends at $66F0.
> B. Go to the second table entry at address $6411.
> Replace the entry with the values from step 5D.
> For example:
> 67 02 04 00 00 2C 01 00 00 00 00 00 67 02 11 00
> would become:
> 99 02 10 00 00 FF FF 00 08 00 00 00 98 02 3F 00
> C. Save this file.
>
> 7. Split the file.
> A. This file now needs to separated into two files,
> one odd and one even. This is done in WinHex by
> selecting File Manager | Disect | Bytewise (8 bit).
> WinHex will then prompt you for the file to be split,
> and then prompt you for the name of the file name of
> the new files.
>
> 8. Compute and Correct the Checksums.
> A. Load one of the split files and compute its
> checksum. To compute the checksum in WinHex, select
> Tools | Calculate Hash | Checksum (16 bit), or
> CTRL-F2. The checksum of the file must equal the
> original value before the file was edited. For
> example, if you were editing the Revision 1, Odd file,
> the checksum must equal 0B00.
> After editing, let's assume the checksum is now 0BC2.
> There is a copyright notice at the begininning of the
> file that is never seen. This text can be changed to
> restore the checksum to its original value. For
> example, "43 6F 70 79" can be changed to "00 00 00 1A"
> in order to restore the checksum value.
> B. Once the checksum has been corrected, save the
> file and repeated the process for the remaining file.
>
> 9. Burn new EPROMs and boot the Grid.
> A. Load the files into the EPROM programmer and
> program new EPROMs. Place these EPROMS in the Grid.
> B. Slide the new drive in to the adapter board that
> is connected to the floppy drive. The hard drive
> should slide into the bottom of that board.
> C. Put a bootable floopy disk into the drive and
> apply power. If everything was done properly the
> computer should boot. You may have to press the "F"
> key to get the Grid to boot from the floppy drive.
> D. You should be able to run "fdisk" and then
> "format" your new hard drive.
>
> Good luck,
> -Shawn
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
> http://new.mail.yahoo.com <http://new.mail.yahoo.com>
>
>
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2007 22:07:21 -0600
From: Charles Ford
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Serial Port Info
Jim:
You may need the 1520 config file to turn the port on.
Shawnerz wrote:
>
> All,
> This came in from a new member:
> <lamb@... <mailto:lamb%40dccnet.com>>
>
> >Comment from user:
> >recently purchased 1520 to program motorola radio and
> >loooking for serial port info
>
> Jim,
> Welcome to the group.
> What kind of serial port info are you looking for?
> Everything is pretty much located at the standard
> interrupts/port addresses.
>
> -Shawn
>
> __________________________________________________________
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>
Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2007 18:50:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: BIOS Reprogramming Errata
All,
I noticed several typos and mistakes in the
reprogramming instructions. However, overall the
document is correct in it's procedures.
I am planning to re-do the instructions, but this time
in Microsoft Word. This document will be complete
with pictures, screenshots, and a FAQ.
I wanted to bring up another important subject that
could be a pitfall ("big mistake" for non-native
English speakers). If I remember correlty, Phil
mentioned that his hard drive did not fit properly
into his Grid. (I think) Charles responded and were
misaligned by about 1/16th of an inch.
You both are correct, but Phil brought up something
very important.
If you look at the rear connector on the original
Conner drives, and you start at the left side, there
is an Activity Light connector, the IDE inteface
connector, and then the power connector. At the
"front" of the drive, there is the Options connector
where the Master/Slave, Cable Select and other options
are set.
On almost all newer drives, starting at the left side,
there is the IDE connector, the Options connector, and
then the Power connector.
Newer drives *will not* slide into the hard drive
interface board on the Grid.
I have a 4.3GB Seagate drive I was going to put into
my Grid. I know that the Grid will not be able to see
all 4.3GB, but I wanted to see what would happen. I
soon realized that the hard drive does not fit in to
the Grid.
Before anyone starts buying hard drives on Ebay or at
hamfests, you need to look to make sure that the drive
will fit into the hard drive interface board on the
Grid.
Charles is also correct because I have a 340 MB Conner
that does fit into the Grid. However, the power pins
are now slightly bent because the pins do not line up
with the power connector on the hard drive interface
board.
-Shawn
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2007 06:13:45 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Old Hard Drive non-functional
Of course this is the problem we are trying to solve. However, I was
hoping the only problem I have is that the drive was suffering
from "Stiction". But that doesn't seem to be the case. My old hard
drive will start to rev up its motor spindle for about ten to fifteen
seconds and then it slows down and stops for about five seconds, then
it starts to spin again and simply repeats this process over and over.
The drive is never recognized by the computer. Does anybody know if
this can be fixed, and if so, does anybody know how. Please and Thank
You.
Phil
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 18:34:19 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re:SUCcESS!!...kind of...
To all,
I have an EPROM programmer, an old PB10 by NEEDHAMS ELectronics which
looks to be quite functional on an old Pentium One I have. I have the
EPROMS (erased) coming in today I believe so I have everything I
need. I will start with my secondary 1530, which has the monochrome
screen and see how it works using the CP30174E hard drives I have
obtained.
One question: Once I have burned the EPROMS, do I need to cover the
window with anything to keep it from getting accidentally erased?
I am also looking at an EPROM UV eraser which I hope to get soon.
On a side note, I was thinking of getting the math co-processor
80387. The speed of the 1530 is 12 Mhz as I recall. Does the math co-
processor have to be exatly that? Or can it be a faster chip like the
16 MHz or 25 MHz? Also I can't remember if the 1530 is a DX or SX
machine (I think it is DX) If so, does it make a difference as to the
co-processor chip being DX or SX (it seems to me like it would.)
Anyway, thanks for the help.
Another side question: Would EEPROMS work?
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "jeriddian"
<FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks, Charles
>
> I appreciate the info.
>
> Phil
>
> --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Charles Ford <cjford1@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Phil, Shawn:
> > The extention number on the ROM package is access time (has
> nothing to
> > do with programing)
> > 15 = 150 nS, 20 = 200 nS and so on.
> > For the 1520 you will need to have an access time of 400nS or
> better
> > (that is a 40 or less)
> > For the 1530 you will need 250nS or better (less than 25 on the
> package)
> >
> > Shawnerz wrote:
> > >
> > > Phil,
> > > I do not know. The -15 means 15 mS (milli-seconds)
> > > and the -20 means 20 mS. It is an indication of how
> > > quickly the data can be stored into the EPROM. The
> > > lower the number, the more quickly it can be
> > > programmed. I am using -15's and and I have not had
> > > any problems.
> > >
> >
>
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2007 12:49:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re:SUCcESS!!...kind of...
Phil,
I think the PB10 will work. Although, I am not
familiar with that model.
You may have a problem where your Pentium computer
talks too quickly over the parallel port. In this
case, the EPROM programmer will not respond. To fix
this problem, might want to download a program called
Moslo (short for More Slowly). It is available here:
http://www.hpaa.com/moslo/
I paid for Moslo basic (15 USD).
I have to slow my 666 MHz Celeron down to about 80
MHz. Even at this slower speed, my programmer has
problems at startup.
If the PB10 is a serial programmer, you probably will
not have this problem.
Will EEPROMs work? Probably yes. The problem will be
erasing them. If the programmer can erase them, then
EEPROMs sholuld work.
Should you cover the window? If you plan to carry the
programmed EPROMs outside (outdoors), or if you have a
hydroponics set up (for medicinal purposes ;)) where
there could be a there could be a lot of ultra-violet
(UV) light, then yes, cover up the window.
I have been programming and erasing mine (indoors)with
the window uncovered and have not had any problems.
I don't have any information about the co-processor.
I have thought about buying a 287 and installing it.
Maybe one day when I'm rich and have a lot of idle
time... :-)
-Shawn
--- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
> To all,
>
> I have an EPROM programmer, an old PB10 by NEEDHAMS
> ELectronics which
> looks to be quite functional on an old Pentium One I
> have. I have the
> EPROMS (erased) coming in today I believe so I have
> everything I
> need. I will start with my secondary 1530, which has
> the monochrome
> screen and see how it works using the CP30174E hard
> drives I have
> obtained.
>
> One question: Once I have burned the EPROMS, do I
> need to cover the
> window with anything to keep it from getting
> accidentally erased?
>
> I am also looking at an EPROM UV eraser which I hope
> to get soon.
>
> On a side note, I was thinking of getting the math
> co-processor
> 80387. The speed of the 1530 is 12 Mhz as I recall.
> Does the math co-
> processor have to be exatly that? Or can it be a
> faster chip like the
> 16 MHz or 25 MHz? Also I can't remember if the 1530
> is a DX or SX
> machine (I think it is DX) If so, does it make a
> difference as to the
> co-processor chip being DX or SX (it seems to me
> like it would.)
> Anyway, thanks for the help.
>
> Another side question: Would EEPROMS work?
>
>
> --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "jeriddian"
> <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks, Charles
> >
> > I appreciate the info.
> >
> > Phil
> >
> > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Charles Ford
> <cjford1@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Phil, Shawn:
> > > The extention number on the ROM package is
> access time (has
> > nothing to
> > > do with programing)
> > > 15 = 150 nS, 20 = 200 nS and so on.
> > > For the 1520 you will need to have an access
> time of 400nS or
> > better
> > > (that is a 40 or less)
> > > For the 1530 you will need 250nS or better (less
> than 25 on the
> > package)
> > >
> > > Shawnerz wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Phil,
> > > > I do not know. The -15 means 15 mS
> (milli-seconds)
> > > > and the -20 means 20 mS. It is an indication
> of how
> > > > quickly the data can be stored into the EPROM.
> The
> > > > lower the number, the more quickly it can be
> > > > programmed. I am using -15's and and I have
> not had
> > > > any problems.
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
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with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
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Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2007 00:16:55 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re:SUCcESS!!...kind of...
Thanks, Shawn,
My old P1 only runs at 75 Mhz, so I don't think that should be
much of an issue, plus the PB10 is installed as a separate internal
PC card into a slot on the motherboard with its own output to the
module that holds the EPROM. I've already fired up the program just
looking around and reading the old chips from my original 1530. They
seem to work and I can download the contents into the buffer,
although when I looked at the code, it seems the amount of code is
small compared to the capacity of the chip. I haven't tried fusing
the contents of the two chips together yet. Still waiting on my chips
to come in.
I was doing some research on the 80387 chips. There was some stuff I
was seeing suggesting they had to be matched to the particular unit's
CPU make and speed, but then I saw another article that said the
80387's which were faster could adapt to a slower speed (up to 33
Mhz), but that this was not possible with 80287's I'm not sure how
accurate this all is, but I'll keep searching for info.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> Phil,
> I think the PB10 will work. Although, I am not
> familiar with that model.
> You may have a problem where your Pentium computer
> talks too quickly over the parallel port. In this
> case, the EPROM programmer will not respond. To fix
> this problem, might want to download a program called
> Moslo (short for More Slowly). It is available here:
> http://www.hpaa.com/moslo/
> I paid for Moslo basic (15 USD).
> I have to slow my 666 MHz Celeron down to about 80
> MHz. Even at this slower speed, my programmer has
> problems at startup.
> If the PB10 is a serial programmer, you probably will
> not have this problem.
>
> Will EEPROMs work? Probably yes. The problem will be
> erasing them. If the programmer can erase them, then
> EEPROMs sholuld work.
>
> Should you cover the window? If you plan to carry the
> programmed EPROMs outside (outdoors), or if you have a
> hydroponics set up (for medicinal purposes ;)) where
> there could be a there could be a lot of ultra-violet
> (UV) light, then yes, cover up the window.
> I have been programming and erasing mine (indoors)with
> the window uncovered and have not had any problems.
>
> I don't have any information about the co-processor.
> I have thought about buying a 287 and installing it.
> Maybe one day when I'm rich and have a lot of idle
> time... :-)
> -Shawn
> --- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
>
> > To all,
> >
> > I have an EPROM programmer, an old PB10 by NEEDHAMS
> > ELectronics which
> > looks to be quite functional on an old Pentium One I
> > have. I have the
> > EPROMS (erased) coming in today I believe so I have
> > everything I
> > need. I will start with my secondary 1530, which has
> > the monochrome
> > screen and see how it works using the CP30174E hard
> > drives I have
> > obtained.
> >
> > One question: Once I have burned the EPROMS, do I
> > need to cover the
> > window with anything to keep it from getting
> > accidentally erased?
> >
> > I am also looking at an EPROM UV eraser which I hope
> > to get soon.
> >
> > On a side note, I was thinking of getting the math
> > co-processor
> > 80387. The speed of the 1530 is 12 Mhz as I recall.
> > Does the math co-
> > processor have to be exatly that? Or can it be a
> > faster chip like the
> > 16 MHz or 25 MHz? Also I can't remember if the 1530
> > is a DX or SX
> > machine (I think it is DX) If so, does it make a
> > difference as to the
> > co-processor chip being DX or SX (it seems to me
> > like it would.)
> > Anyway, thanks for the help.
> >
> > Another side question: Would EEPROMS work?
> >
> >
> > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "jeriddian"
> > <FelipeGPorresMD@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks, Charles
> > >
> > > I appreciate the info.
> > >
> > > Phil
> > >
> > > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Charles Ford
> > <cjford1@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Phil, Shawn:
> > > > The extention number on the ROM package is
> > access time (has
> > > nothing to
> > > > do with programing)
> > > > 15 = 150 nS, 20 = 200 nS and so on.
> > > > For the 1520 you will need to have an access
> > time of 400nS or
> > > better
> > > > (that is a 40 or less)
> > > > For the 1530 you will need 250nS or better (less
> > than 25 on the
> > > package)
> > > >
> > > > Shawnerz wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Phil,
> > > > > I do not know. The -15 means 15 mS
> > (milli-seconds)
> > > > > and the -20 means 20 mS. It is an indication
> > of how
> > > > > quickly the data can be stored into the EPROM.
> > The
> > > > > lower the number, the more quickly it can be
> > > > > programmed. I am using -15's and and I have
> > not had
> > > > > any problems.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> > mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
> with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
> http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
>
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2007 20:25:07 -0800 (PST)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Merged Files
Phil,
If you have any problems merging your two files, you
can send them to me. I can merge them and send you
back the single file.
Thanks,
-Shawn
--- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
> Thanks, Shawn,
>
> My old P1 only runs at 75 Mhz, so I don't think
> that should be
> much of an issue, plus the PB10 is installed as a
> separate internal
> PC card into a slot on the motherboard with its own
> output to the
> module that holds the EPROM. I've already fired up
> the program just
> looking around and reading the old chips from my
> original 1530. They
> seem to work and I can download the contents into
> the buffer,
> although when I looked at the code, it seems the
> amount of code is
> small compared to the capacity of the chip. I
> haven't tried fusing
> the contents of the two chips together yet. Still
> waiting on my chips
> to come in.
>
> I was doing some research on the 80387 chips. There
> was some stuff I
> was seeing suggesting they had to be matched to the
> particular unit's
> CPU make and speed, but then I saw another article
> that said the
> 80387's which were faster could adapt to a slower
> speed (up to 33
> Mhz), but that this was not possible with 80287's
> I'm not sure how
> accurate this all is, but I'll keep searching for
> info.
>
> Phil
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2007 11:40:10 -0500
From: "John M."
Subject: Will a 1755 work w/o the CMOS battery?
I need a project yesterday, so I pulled my 1755 out of its case to
mess around with it. I took it out, plugged it in, and instead of the
battery + power lights coming on like they usually do, they just
blinked. but it wasn't a *normal* blink, it was more of a flicker,
like they weren't even getting enough power to light one fully. I
checked the power supply (my first thought as to who the culprit may
be) and it puts out a steady 18.18v, though its rated for 16v (might
this be a problem?)
I popped it open to see if there were any dirty/unseated connectors,
and I didn't see any. None of the parts were getting abnormally hot
(well, nothing was getting remotely warm) or anything like that.
There's no magic smoke or sparks. I then looked at the CMOS battery,
(thats what I *think* it is anyways, 10" long, like a pencil with a
plug and wires at the end) the red wire was broken off completely, so
it was making the battery (or whatever it is) useless.
Is it possible that this thing not being connected could make it not
respond to power at all? Maybe I can cut into it and resolder the
wire? Maybe something worse is happening?
Thanks,
John
Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2007 19:32:11 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Will a 1755 work w/o the CMOS battery?
The CMOS battery is only there to maintain a voltage on the CMOS chip
to maintain the time and date so that you don't have to enter the
time and date each time you turn the unit on. It has nothing to do
with the power supply and shouldn't affect turning it on or off if it
is bad or even if it is missing. As to your power supply, just
because it provides 18.18 volts when you measure it doesn't mean you
will get that voltage when you put it under a load requiring a
subtsantial amount of current. However, it doesn't sound like your
power supply. I don't know what the CMOS battery for a 1755 would be
like. I have 1730's myself, but they are small fat cylindrical units
that are clearly marked as CMOS batteries, and what you describe
sounds more like a fuse. I've never heard of CMOS battery that was
ten inches long. They simply do not need to be that big. I really
feel it is something else. I would suggest getting some
documentation, if you still have it, or find it on the web, and try
to figure out what that part you are describing is. It may require
nothing more than reattaching the wire if you are sure that it
belongs where you think it does. But I would play safe and find out
what each of those parts are first. You may want to take some photos
and upload them onto this forum. Somebody here might recognize it and
be able to better help you than I'm able to do.
Good luck.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "John M." <john8520@...> wrote:
>
> I need a project yesterday, so I pulled my 1755 out of its case to
> mess around with it. I took it out, plugged it in, and instead of
the
> battery + power lights coming on like they usually do, they just
> blinked. but it wasn't a *normal* blink, it was more of a flicker,
> like they weren't even getting enough power to light one fully. I
> checked the power supply (my first thought as to who the culprit
may
> be) and it puts out a steady 18.18v, though its rated for 16v
(might
> this be a problem?)
>
> I popped it open to see if there were any dirty/unseated
connectors,
> and I didn't see any. None of the parts were getting abnormally
hot
> (well, nothing was getting remotely warm) or anything like that.
> There's no magic smoke or sparks. I then looked at the CMOS
battery,
> (thats what I *think* it is anyways, 10" long, like a pencil with
a
> plug and wires at the end) the red wire was broken off completely,
so
> it was making the battery (or whatever it is) useless.
>
> Is it possible that this thing not being connected could make it
not
> respond to power at all? Maybe I can cut into it and resolder the
> wire? Maybe something worse is happening?
>
> Thanks,
> John
>
Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2007 19:43:51 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Merged Files
Thanks, Shawn, I appreciate the offer,
Actually, I've played with it some more and figured out how to merge
the files with the EMP program that comes with this programmer. I
found the section where the hard drives are listed. My original chips
from my upgraded unit showed the table with the six standard hard
drives listed as you have noted previously. The program also allows
me to program each of the two chips appropriately as well, so I
should be able to program my odd and even chips correctly. I'm just
waiting for my EPROMS to come in the mail so I can try it.
Also, you had listed before that getting to the EPROMS required
taking out the keyboard. That may be true for the 1520, but for the
1530, the BIOS chips are underneath the video card and only require
removing this card to get to them. The keyboard does not have to be
removed for that purpose(provided that you don't have to unsolder the
chips). Both of my 1530's have their BIOS chips in low profile
sockets so it's not a problem for me. Actually, I think that the
1530's may all have low profile sockets used for their BIOS chips. It
may be just that some of the 1520's still have BIOS chips fully
soldered in.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> Phil,
> If you have any problems merging your two files, you
> can send them to me. I can merge them and send you
> back the single file.
> Thanks,
> -Shawn
>
> --- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
>
> > Thanks, Shawn,
> >
> > My old P1 only runs at 75 Mhz, so I don't think
> > that should be
> > much of an issue, plus the PB10 is installed as a
> > separate internal
> > PC card into a slot on the motherboard with its own
> > output to the
> > module that holds the EPROM. I've already fired up
> > the program just
> > looking around and reading the old chips from my
> > original 1530. They
> > seem to work and I can download the contents into
> > the buffer,
> > although when I looked at the code, it seems the
> > amount of code is
> > small compared to the capacity of the chip. I
> > haven't tried fusing
> > the contents of the two chips together yet. Still
> > waiting on my chips
> > to come in.
> >
> > I was doing some research on the 80387 chips. There
> > was some stuff I
> > was seeing suggesting they had to be matched to the
> > particular unit's
> > CPU make and speed, but then I saw another article
> > that said the
> > 80387's which were faster could adapt to a slower
> > speed (up to 33
> > Mhz), but that this was not possible with 80287's
> > I'm not sure how
> > accurate this all is, but I'll keep searching for
> > info.
> >
> > Phil
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Never miss an email again!
> Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives.
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>
Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2007 19:55:50 -0000
From: "ashkelondog"
Subject: Re: Will a 1755 work w/o the CMOS battery?
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "jeriddian"
<FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
>
> The CMOS battery is only there to maintain a voltage on the CMOS chip
> to maintain the time and date so that you don't have to enter the
> time and date each time you turn the unit on. It has nothing to do
> with the power supply and shouldn't affect turning it on or off if it
> is bad or even if it is missing. As to your power supply, just
> because it provides 18.18 volts when you measure it doesn't mean you
> will get that voltage when you put it under a load requiring a
> subtsantial amount of current. However, it doesn't sound like your
> power supply. I don't know what the CMOS battery for a 1755 would be
> like. I have 1730's myself, but they are small fat cylindrical units
> that are clearly marked as CMOS batteries, and what you describe
> sounds more like a fuse. I've never heard of CMOS battery that was
> ten inches long. They simply do not need to be that big. I really
> feel it is something else. I would suggest getting some
> documentation, if you still have it, or find it on the web, and try
> to figure out what that part you are describing is. It may require
> nothing more than reattaching the wire if you are sure that it
> belongs where you think it does. But I would play safe and find out
> what each of those parts are first. You may want to take some photos
> and upload them onto this forum. Somebody here might recognize it and
> be able to better help you than I'm able to do.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Phil
>
It's been awhile since I've been inside the box, but as I remember my
1755's CMOS battery was like you describe, short, fat cylinder. Like
an overgrown hearing aid battery.
You can still get replacement CMOS batteries for the 1755. They aren't
that expensive.
Steph
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2007 12:15:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: Merged Files
Phil,
I was wrong. You are absolutely correct. The
keyboard does not need to be removed to get to the
BIOS chips.
The problem is I wrote the procedure from memory
instead of actually doing it while writing.
Getting to the Dallas RTC (if equipped) does require
removing the keyboard.
BTW, I am still interested in the 1530 BIOS file. If
it's not too much trouble, can you post it in the
Files section or email it to me?
Thanks,
-Shawn
--- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
> Thanks, Shawn, I appreciate the offer,
>
> Actually, I've played with it some more and figured
> out how to merge
> the files with the EMP program that comes with this
> programmer. I
> found the section where the hard drives are listed.
> My original chips
> from my upgraded unit showed the table with the six
> standard hard
> drives listed as you have noted previously. The
> program also allows
> me to program each of the two chips appropriately as
> well, so I
> should be able to program my odd and even chips
> correctly. I'm just
> waiting for my EPROMS to come in the mail so I can
> try it.
>
> Also, you had listed before that getting to the
> EPROMS required
> taking out the keyboard. That may be true for the
> 1520, but for the
> 1530, the BIOS chips are underneath the video card
> and only require
> removing this card to get to them. The keyboard does
> not have to be
> removed for that purpose(provided that you don't
> have to unsolder the
> chips). Both of my 1530's have their BIOS chips in
> low profile
> sockets so it's not a problem for me. Actually, I
> think that the
> 1530's may all have low profile sockets used for
> their BIOS chips. It
> may be just that some of the 1520's still have BIOS
> chips fully
> soldered in.
>
> Phil
____________________________________________________________________________________
Need Mail bonding?
Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
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Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2007 22:35:31 +0000
From: "wilfred blanchard"
Subject: RE: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: Will a 1755 work w/o the CMOS battery?
To Phil, Talking of CMOS batteries, I badly need one for my 1450SX. It
consists of 2 3V cells coupled together. I bought some cells but cannot
figure out the connection which is small metal plates clipped to the cells.
Cables are then soldered on. The clipping is beyond me. Can you offer any
help?
Wilf
>From: "ashkelondog" <ashkelon@...>
>Reply-To: RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com
>To: RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: Will a 1755 work w/o the CMOS battery?
>Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2007 19:55:50 -0000
>
>--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "jeriddian"
><FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
> >
> > The CMOS battery is only there to maintain a voltage on the CMOS chip
> > to maintain the time and date so that you don't have to enter the
> > time and date each time you turn the unit on. It has nothing to do
> > with the power supply and shouldn't affect turning it on or off if it
> > is bad or even if it is missing. As to your power supply, just
> > because it provides 18.18 volts when you measure it doesn't mean you
> > will get that voltage when you put it under a load requiring a
> > subtsantial amount of current. However, it doesn't sound like your
> > power supply. I don't know what the CMOS battery for a 1755 would be
> > like. I have 1730's myself, but they are small fat cylindrical units
> > that are clearly marked as CMOS batteries, and what you describe
> > sounds more like a fuse. I've never heard of CMOS battery that was
> > ten inches long. They simply do not need to be that big. I really
> > feel it is something else. I would suggest getting some
> > documentation, if you still have it, or find it on the web, and try
> > to figure out what that part you are describing is. It may require
> > nothing more than reattaching the wire if you are sure that it
> > belongs where you think it does. But I would play safe and find out
> > what each of those parts are first. You may want to take some photos
> > and upload them onto this forum. Somebody here might recognize it and
> > be able to better help you than I'm able to do.
> >
> > Good luck.
> >
> > Phil
> >
>It's been awhile since I've been inside the box, but as I remember my
>1755's CMOS battery was like you describe, short, fat cylinder. Like
>an overgrown hearing aid battery.
>
>You can still get replacement CMOS batteries for the 1755. They aren't
>that expensive.
>
>Steph
>
Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2007 23:25:57 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Merged Files
No problem,Shawn
I'll upload it to the file section. It will be a binary file called
GRID1530.BIN
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> Phil,
> I was wrong. You are absolutely correct. The
> keyboard does not need to be removed to get to the
> BIOS chips.
> The problem is I wrote the procedure from memory
> instead of actually doing it while writing.
> Getting to the Dallas RTC (if equipped) does require
> removing the keyboard.
>
> BTW, I am still interested in the 1530 BIOS file. If
> it's not too much trouble, can you post it in the
> Files section or email it to me?
> Thanks,
> -Shawn
>
> --- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
>
> > Thanks, Shawn, I appreciate the offer,
> >
> > Actually, I've played with it some more and figured
> > out how to merge
> > the files with the EMP program that comes with this
> > programmer. I
> > found the section where the hard drives are listed.
> > My original chips
> > from my upgraded unit showed the table with the six
> > standard hard
> > drives listed as you have noted previously. The
> > program also allows
> > me to program each of the two chips appropriately as
> > well, so I
> > should be able to program my odd and even chips
> > correctly. I'm just
> > waiting for my EPROMS to come in the mail so I can
> > try it.
> >
> > Also, you had listed before that getting to the
> > EPROMS required
> > taking out the keyboard. That may be true for the
> > 1520, but for the
> > 1530, the BIOS chips are underneath the video card
> > and only require
> > removing this card to get to them. The keyboard does
> > not have to be
> > removed for that purpose(provided that you don't
> > have to unsolder the
> > chips). Both of my 1530's have their BIOS chips in
> > low profile
> > sockets so it's not a problem for me. Actually, I
> > think that the
> > 1530's may all have low profile sockets used for
> > their BIOS chips. It
> > may be just that some of the 1520's still have BIOS
> > chips fully
> > soldered in.
> >
> > Phil
>
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Need Mail bonding?
> Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
> http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091
>
Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2007 23:44:12 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Will a 1755 work w/o the CMOS battery?
Well, first could you tell me what the brand and model number of the
battery is? I tried to look up a replacement battery specific for the
1450 SX, and couldn't find any info on it, although I did find
lithium 3V batteries that were coin sized. As long as we match the
voltage and the amperage output, we should be okay.
Secondly, I don't know exactly what to tell you about the connections
since I am not familiar with it. My 1530's use a different CMOS
battery setup with a cylinder battery. There aren't any plates. If
you could take a picture of it and post it, I might be able to tell
you more.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "wilfred blanchard"
<nitfie@...> wrote:
>
> To Phil, Talking of CMOS batteries, I badly need one for my 1450SX.
It
> consists of 2 3V cells coupled together. I bought some cells but
cannot
> figure out the connection which is small metal plates clipped to
the cells.
> Cables are then soldered on. The clipping is beyond me. Can you
offer any
> help?
> Wilf
>
>
> >From: "ashkelondog" <ashkelon@...>
> >Reply-To: RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com
> >To: RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: Will a 1755 work w/o the CMOS battery?
> >Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2007 19:55:50 -0000
> >
> >--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "jeriddian"
> ><FelipeGPorresMD@> wrote:
> > >
> > > The CMOS battery is only there to maintain a voltage on the
CMOS chip
> > > to maintain the time and date so that you don't have to enter
the
> > > time and date each time you turn the unit on. It has nothing to
do
> > > with the power supply and shouldn't affect turning it on or off
if it
> > > is bad or even if it is missing. As to your power supply, just
> > > because it provides 18.18 volts when you measure it doesn't
mean you
> > > will get that voltage when you put it under a load requiring a
> > > subtsantial amount of current. However, it doesn't sound like
your
> > > power supply. I don't know what the CMOS battery for a 1755
would be
> > > like. I have 1730's myself, but they are small fat cylindrical
units
> > > that are clearly marked as CMOS batteries, and what you describe
> > > sounds more like a fuse. I've never heard of CMOS battery that
was
> > > ten inches long. They simply do not need to be that big. I
really
> > > feel it is something else. I would suggest getting some
> > > documentation, if you still have it, or find it on the web, and
try
> > > to figure out what that part you are describing is. It may
require
> > > nothing more than reattaching the wire if you are sure that it
> > > belongs where you think it does. But I would play safe and find
out
> > > what each of those parts are first. You may want to take some
photos
> > > and upload them onto this forum. Somebody here might recognize
it and
> > > be able to better help you than I'm able to do.
> > >
> > > Good luck.
> > >
> > > Phil
> > >
> >It's been awhile since I've been inside the box, but as I remember
my
> >1755's CMOS battery was like you describe, short, fat cylinder.
Like
> >an overgrown hearing aid battery.
> >
> >You can still get replacement CMOS batteries for the 1755. They
aren't
> >that expensive.
> >
> >Steph
> >
>
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2007 19:42:43 -0500
From: "John M."
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: Will a 1755 work w/o the CMOS battery?
Ok, I've done some reading and testing, and I have concluded the
following things:
A) The 1755 has one of those Dallas Real Time clock box thingies. It
has the Model DS1287, which has a 3v battery *internally*
B) The connector for the long strange battery is labeled RESUME,
might it be for a momentary backup of the main battery?
C) I've plugged the power supply into the board, and tested the
voltage level on the DC jack's solder points. When plugged in there,
it drops to 3.55v.
Here's some pictures, if they help any...
Strange battery thing -
battery - http://john8520.homeunix.org:8888/grid/DSC_3214.JPG
logicboard connector - http://john8520.homeunix.org:8888/grid/
DSC_3214.JPG
Dallas time box - http://john8520.homeunix.org:8888/grid/DSC_3216.JPG
John
On Mar 9, 2007, at 2:55 PM, ashkelondog wrote:
> --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "jeriddian"
> <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
>>
>> The CMOS battery is only there to maintain a voltage on the CMOS chip
>> to maintain the time and date so that you don't have to enter the
>> time and date each time you turn the unit on. It has nothing to do
>> with the power supply and shouldn't affect turning it on or off if it
>> is bad or even if it is missing. As to your power supply, just
>> because it provides 18.18 volts when you measure it doesn't mean you
>> will get that voltage when you put it under a load requiring a
>> subtsantial amount of current. However, it doesn't sound like your
>> power supply. I don't know what the CMOS battery for a 1755 would be
>> like. I have 1730's myself, but they are small fat cylindrical units
>> that are clearly marked as CMOS batteries, and what you describe
>> sounds more like a fuse. I've never heard of CMOS battery that was
>> ten inches long. They simply do not need to be that big. I really
>> feel it is something else. I would suggest getting some
>> documentation, if you still have it, or find it on the web, and try
>> to figure out what that part you are describing is. It may require
>> nothing more than reattaching the wire if you are sure that it
>> belongs where you think it does. But I would play safe and find out
>> what each of those parts are first. You may want to take some photos
>> and upload them onto this forum. Somebody here might recognize it and
>> be able to better help you than I'm able to do.
>>
>> Good luck.
>>
>> Phil
>>
> It's been awhile since I've been inside the box, but as I remember my
> 1755's CMOS battery was like you describe, short, fat cylinder. Like
> an overgrown hearing aid battery.
>
> You can still get replacement CMOS batteries for the 1755. They aren't
> that expensive.
>
> Steph
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------
> ~-->
> Check out the new improvements in Yahoo! Groups email.
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/4It09A/fOaOAA/yQLSAA/f7l0lB/TM
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> ~->
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2007 05:48:41 -0800 (PST)
From: steve adams
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: Will a 1755 work w/o the CMOS battery?
It's been awhile- the long yellow pencil is a standby
battery. Also, have you tried powering up with battery
removed? Could be horribly dead.
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2007 11:50:22 -0500
From: "John Miller"
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: Will a 1755 work w/o the CMOS battery?
Yeah, all the testing I've been doing is sans-battery, especially
since the + wire on the standby battery is broken off. The main
battery + main battery wires are also disconnected/removed.
On 3/10/07, steve adams <Mobat99@...> wrote:
> It's been awhile- the long yellow pencil is a standby
> battery. Also, have you tried powering up with battery
> removed? Could be horribly dead.
>
>
>
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2007 21:06:40 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Will a 1755 work w/o the CMOS battery?
To John,
The pictures are pretty clear. I've never seen a battery like
the one there, but I do believe it is a battery. I think you can go
ahead and resolder the red wire back to it and see if it helps.
However, the "resume" is exactly like what Steve Adams said. It
suggests that this is the battery that maintains power on the memory
so that you don't lose the information to reload the computer when
you take it out of standby.
When you put the computer into standby, you will shut down
virtually all of it, but you have to store the information in the
RAM and the CPU somewhere so that when you turn the computer back
on, it can reload that information and pick up exactly where you
left off. That requires that you store that information into a
separate RAM (usually) and keep it active until you are ready to
restart the computer. This requires very little current to do this
and therefore a battery can keep it up for a very long time. This
battery apparently supplies the power for that. Not having this
battery in there however, only means you cannot put the computer
into standby.
It still as nothing to do with the main power of the computer.
What you describe in point #1 of your post is bad news, because it
indicates that the power supply cannot supply the proper voltage at
full load. Even at full load, your power supply should test out at
close to 18 volts. Intead you are only getting 3 volts. That
suggests one of two things. Either your power supply is bad (easy
enough to replace), or there's a short in the power handling section
of your computer (Not so eacy to fix.)
The best way to test this is to find out the power rating of
the power supply [How many maximum watts does it supply? Just
multiply the voltage (18) by the amperage (however many amperes it
says on the power supply itself), and that gives you the wattage].
Then figure the resistance of the unit at maximum power output which
is voltage divided by amperage (example: 18 volts divided by 3
amperes equals a resistance of 6 ohms). Resistance is measured in
ohms. Then find (buy) a power resistor rated at the maximum wattage
or better at that resistance (ohmage). In the above example 18 volts
times 3 amperes equals 54 watts of power. So find a resistor valued
at 6 ohms, rated at 50 watts or higher.
Use this as a proxy for the computer and connect the power
supply across it. If the voltage is still 3 volts, your power supply
is bad. If the voltage is back up to 18 volts, you have a short
circuit somewhere in the computer (probably a bad capacitor that has
degraded with time over the years).
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "John Miller" <john8520@...>
wrote:
>
> Yeah, all the testing I've been doing is sans-battery, especially
> since the + wire on the standby battery is broken off. The main
> battery + main battery wires are also disconnected/removed.
>
> On 3/10/07, steve adams <Mobat99@...> wrote:
> > It's been awhile- the long yellow pencil is a standby
> > battery. Also, have you tried powering up with battery
> > removed? Could be horribly dead.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2007 17:40:56 -0500
From: "John Miller"
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: Will a 1755 work w/o the CMOS battery?
text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
[ Attachment content not displayed ]
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2007 06:21:09 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Will a 1755 work w/o the CMOS battery?
No prob, John,
Just FYI, if it is 1.5 amps, then you're looking at 27 watts and
12 ohms as the specson on the power resistor you need ot use. If it
is 2 amperes, then you're looking at 36 watts and 9 ohms on the
resistor. Good luck.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "John Miller" <john8520@...>
wrote:
>
> Wow! Thanks for the explanation and howto! Unfortunately I'm out of
town at
> the moment, and wont be back home until the 16th, and I was unable
to bring
> any of the parts along. However, I will test everything when I get
back.
>
> Anyways, I believe that its 1.5 amps, or maybe 2, not sure. My bet
would be
> that there is a short somewhere on the mainboard, but I'm not sure.
If its
> just some crud, spraying it down with som of that 'quick
evaporating'
> contact cleaner will help alot. (I've used it on many mac
logicboards, whith
> positive effects)
>
> Thanks,
> John
>
> On 3/10/07, jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
> >
> > To John,
> > The pictures are pretty clear. I've never seen a battery like
> > the one there, but I do believe it is a battery. I think you can
go
> > ahead and resolder the red wire back to it and see if it helps.
> > However, the "resume" is exactly like what Steve Adams said. It
> > suggests that this is the battery that maintains power on the
memory
> > so that you don't lose the information to reload the computer when
> > you take it out of standby.
> > When you put the computer into standby, you will shut down
> > virtually all of it, but you have to store the information in the
> > RAM and the CPU somewhere so that when you turn the computer back
> > on, it can reload that information and pick up exactly where you
> > left off. That requires that you store that information into a
> > separate RAM (usually) and keep it active until you are ready to
> > restart the computer. This requires very little current to do this
> > and therefore a battery can keep it up for a very long time. This
> > battery apparently supplies the power for that. Not having this
> > battery in there however, only means you cannot put the computer
> > into standby.
> > It still as nothing to do with the main power of the
computer.
> > What you describe in point #1 of your post is bad news, because it
> > indicates that the power supply cannot supply the proper voltage
at
> > full load. Even at full load, your power supply should test out at
> > close to 18 volts. Intead you are only getting 3 volts. That
> > suggests one of two things. Either your power supply is bad (easy
> > enough to replace), or there's a short in the power handling
section
> > of your computer (Not so eacy to fix.)
> > The best way to test this is to find out the power rating of
> > the power supply [How many maximum watts does it supply? Just
> > multiply the voltage (18) by the amperage (however many amperes it
> > says on the power supply itself), and that gives you the wattage].
> > Then figure the resistance of the unit at maximum power output
which
> > is voltage divided by amperage (example: 18 volts divided by 3
> > amperes equals a resistance of 6 ohms). Resistance is measured in
> > ohms. Then find (buy) a power resistor rated at the maximum
wattage
> > or better at that resistance (ohmage). In the above example 18
volts
> > times 3 amperes equals 54 watts of power. So find a resistor
valued
> > at 6 ohms, rated at 50 watts or higher.
> > Use this as a proxy for the computer and connect the power
> > supply across it. If the voltage is still 3 volts, your power
supply
> > is bad. If the voltage is back up to 18 volts, you have a short
> > circuit somewhere in the computer (probably a bad capacitor that
has
> > degraded with time over the years).
> >
> > Phil
> >
>
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2007 15:59:54 -0000
From: "androgenoide"
Subject: Re: Will a 1755 work w/o the CMOS battery?
My two cents worth...
Light bulbs typically make pretty good dummy loads for checking power
supplies. I don't think that power supply should be able to supply
enough to light up an auto headlight even if it's working properly,
but maybe a couple taillights in parallel...(or maybe just one)?
Prime suspects for drawing excess current and shutting things down
are old batteries. I'm a bit of a cynic about batteries. Most
NiCd's have a one year warranty and few of them meet spec after that
period. The commonest failure mode is the one where it dries out and
won't draw any current but there are several ways they can be shorted
or partially shorted. I'd say make sure that all batteries are
disconnected and the supply can drive at least one taillight. If
the Grid still draws enough to pull down the supply then you can
start worrying about motherboard problems...although, even then, the
problem will most likely be in the power supply section.
Anyone ever notice that small signal transistors tend to open and
simply stop working while high power devices tend to short across the
supply and damage other stuff? Yet another corollary of Murphy's
law...
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "jeriddian"
<FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
>
> No prob, John,
> Just FYI, if it is 1.5 amps, then you're looking at 27 watts
and
> 12 ohms as the specson on the power resistor you need ot use. If it
> is 2 amperes, then you're looking at 36 watts and 9 ohms on the
> resistor. Good luck.
>
> Phil
>
>
>
> --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "John Miller" <john8520@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Wow! Thanks for the explanation and howto! Unfortunately I'm out
of
> town at
> > the moment, and wont be back home until the 16th, and I was
unable
> to bring
> > any of the parts along. However, I will test everything when I
get
> back.
> >
> > Anyways, I believe that its 1.5 amps, or maybe 2, not sure. My
bet
> would be
> > that there is a short somewhere on the mainboard, but I'm not
sure.
> If its
> > just some crud, spraying it down with som of that 'quick
> evaporating'
> > contact cleaner will help alot. (I've used it on many mac
> logicboards, whith
> > positive effects)
> >
> > Thanks,
> > John
> >
> > On 3/10/07, jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@> wrote:
> > >
> > > To John,
> > > The pictures are pretty clear. I've never seen a battery
like
> > > the one there, but I do believe it is a battery. I think you
can
> go
> > > ahead and resolder the red wire back to it and see if it helps.
> > > However, the "resume" is exactly like what Steve Adams said. It
> > > suggests that this is the battery that maintains power on the
> memory
> > > so that you don't lose the information to reload the computer
when
> > > you take it out of standby.
> > > When you put the computer into standby, you will shut down
> > > virtually all of it, but you have to store the information in
the
> > > RAM and the CPU somewhere so that when you turn the computer
back
> > > on, it can reload that information and pick up exactly where you
> > > left off. That requires that you store that information into a
> > > separate RAM (usually) and keep it active until you are ready to
> > > restart the computer. This requires very little current to do
this
> > > and therefore a battery can keep it up for a very long time.
This
> > > battery apparently supplies the power for that. Not having this
> > > battery in there however, only means you cannot put the computer
> > > into standby.
> > > It still as nothing to do with the main power of the
> computer.
> > > What you describe in point #1 of your post is bad news, because
it
> > > indicates that the power supply cannot supply the proper
voltage
> at
> > > full load. Even at full load, your power supply should test out
at
> > > close to 18 volts. Intead you are only getting 3 volts. That
> > > suggests one of two things. Either your power supply is bad
(easy
> > > enough to replace), or there's a short in the power handling
> section
> > > of your computer (Not so eacy to fix.)
> > > The best way to test this is to find out the power rating
of
> > > the power supply [How many maximum watts does it supply? Just
> > > multiply the voltage (18) by the amperage (however many amperes
it
> > > says on the power supply itself), and that gives you the
wattage].
> > > Then figure the resistance of the unit at maximum power output
> which
> > > is voltage divided by amperage (example: 18 volts divided by 3
> > > amperes equals a resistance of 6 ohms). Resistance is measured
in
> > > ohms. Then find (buy) a power resistor rated at the maximum
> wattage
> > > or better at that resistance (ohmage). In the above example 18
> volts
> > > times 3 amperes equals 54 watts of power. So find a resistor
> valued
> > > at 6 ohms, rated at 50 watts or higher.
> > > Use this as a proxy for the computer and connect the power
> > > supply across it. If the voltage is still 3 volts, your power
> supply
> > > is bad. If the voltage is back up to 18 volts, you have a short
> > > circuit somewhere in the computer (probably a bad capacitor
that
> has
> > > degraded with time over the years).
> > >
> > > Phil
> > >
> >
>
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2007 19:45:16 -0800
From:
Subject: TEST
Ignore me
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2007 21:02:20 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Larger Hard Drives in a 1520 (Success...finally)
That's great Shawn!
I should get my IC's on Monday, and I can try it. I also managed
to find the same hard drive you have at a use parts store,a dn I
want to use it also. I hope you updated this all on your "how to"
instructions. Thanks!
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> All,
> I was able to get the my Grid 1520 to boot from a 340
> MB hard drive AND recognize all 340 MB!!
>
> The short version of the story is the drive parameters
> of the drive that you want to boot from, has to be the
> 2nd entry in the drive table.
>
> The long version of the story:
>
> Note: I am going to refer to the hard drive that you
> wish to install in your Grid as the "new" hard drive.
> The "default" hard drive is one of the Conner hard
> drives that the Grid recognizes by default.
>
> The hard drive parameter table has 23 entries for 23
> different hard drive types. According to hdlook.exe,
> HD1 gets loaded with the first table entry and HD0
> gets the second table entry. I would have expected
> HD0 to be the first and HD1 to be the second, but that
> is not the case.
>
> I made a couple of assumptions. One of them turned
> out to be wrong. First, I thought as long as the new
> hard drive parameters of your new hard drive is in the
> table, anywhere in the table, the Grid will recognize
> all of it AND boot from it.
> The reality is if the new hard drive parameters are in
> the table, the Grid can boot from it, but it will not
> "see" all of the drive space. The new hard drive
> parameters have to be the 2nd table entry.
>
> When I first entered the parameters for my 340 MB hard
> drive, I diliberatly did not use the first two table
> entries. The first table entry is for a default 10 MB
> drive. The second entry of for the CP3024 20 MB
> drive. I thought I was being safe by not using those
> two table entries. I was wrong.
> I did some testing, and I got some unexpected results.
> I couldn't wait until tonight to get some time to
> test out another idea. It worked!
>
> It is possible that the new hard drive parameters
> could be entered into the first table entry. I might
> try that this weekend if I get some time. Right now,
> I'm just very happy to have MS-DOS 6.22 installed on
> my Grid and have 335,962,112 bytes free!
> -Shawn
>
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________________
_______________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
> http://new.mail.yahoo.com
>
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2007 16:21:49 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Larger Hard Drives in a 1520 (Success...finally)
To Shawn,
Well, this is a followup on the programming.....I have not been
successful. I am trying to use a Conner CP30174E hard drive to
replace the old one in my second 1530 unit. I have followed the
procedure you have detailed adn checked through it carefully. My
PB10 programmer allows me to merge the files, make the changes and
then allows me to program the chips in split fashion directly from
the program itself. I have followed the procedure and replaced the
second entry in the hard drives list with the designation of this
hard drive which is CP30174E. (It does run over the next entry and
erases the CP from the next entry which was the CP3044, leaving only
the 3044 following it).
I went to the hard drive parameter tables and carefully inputted the
parameter data, all duly discovered using hdlook, converted into
hex, then entered in the appropriate places in the second hard drive
parameter table listing (starting at address 6410), making sure to
enter the smaller byte first when the datum concerned was a double
word. I then split the files and calculated the checksum and
adjusted the logo entry letters at the very beginning of the file to
get the checksum to agree with the original file.
I then put the unit together and booted up the unit. Unfortunately,
it didn't work. I was able to get the unit to boot up just fine with
a boot disk, but at boot up I did get the configuration error 02,
which I am assuming is the computer couldn't recognize the hard
drive, and then after the boot disk got the thing into DOS, I tried
FDISK which couldn't find any hard drives present.
I tried this four or five times, reprogramming the chips after going
over the files again and making sure I got them correct as per the
protocol, and using two different CP30174E units. I know the hard
drives are okay as I tested them out on my PC machine first But
still no go....
Any ideas or input out there?
Thanks for the help.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "jeriddian"
<FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
>
> That's great Shawn!
> I should get my IC's on Monday, and I can try it. I also
managed
> to find the same hard drive you have at a use parts store,a dn I
> want to use it also. I hope you updated this all on your "how to"
> instructions. Thanks!
>
> Phil
>
>
> --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@> wrote:
> >
> > All,
> > I was able to get the my Grid 1520 to boot from a 340
> > MB hard drive AND recognize all 340 MB!!
> >
> > The short version of the story is the drive parameters
> > of the drive that you want to boot from, has to be the
> > 2nd entry in the drive table.
> >
> > The long version of the story:
> >
> > Note: I am going to refer to the hard drive that you
> > wish to install in your Grid as the "new" hard drive.
> > The "default" hard drive is one of the Conner hard
> > drives that the Grid recognizes by default.
> >
> > The hard drive parameter table has 23 entries for 23
> > different hard drive types. According to hdlook.exe,
> > HD1 gets loaded with the first table entry and HD0
> > gets the second table entry. I would have expected
> > HD0 to be the first and HD1 to be the second, but that
> > is not the case.
> >
> > I made a couple of assumptions. One of them turned
> > out to be wrong. First, I thought as long as the new
> > hard drive parameters of your new hard drive is in the
> > table, anywhere in the table, the Grid will recognize
> > all of it AND boot from it.
> > The reality is if the new hard drive parameters are in
> > the table, the Grid can boot from it, but it will not
> > "see" all of the drive space. The new hard drive
> > parameters have to be the 2nd table entry.
> >
> > When I first entered the parameters for my 340 MB hard
> > drive, I diliberatly did not use the first two table
> > entries. The first table entry is for a default 10 MB
> > drive. The second entry of for the CP3024 20 MB
> > drive. I thought I was being safe by not using those
> > two table entries. I was wrong.
> > I did some testing, and I got some unexpected results.
> > I couldn't wait until tonight to get some time to
> > test out another idea. It worked!
> >
> > It is possible that the new hard drive parameters
> > could be entered into the first table entry. I might
> > try that this weekend if I get some time. Right now,
> > I'm just very happy to have MS-DOS 6.22 installed on
> > my Grid and have 335,962,112 bytes free!
> > -Shawn
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
_____________________________________________________________________
> _______________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
> > http://new.mail.yahoo.com
> >
>
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2007 11:38:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: Larger Hard Drives in a 1520 (Success...finally)
Phil,
I'm in a rush right now but I wanted to get a response
to you as quickly as possible.
The Grid booted from floppy, right? The simple fact
that it booted from floppy indciated that your BIOS
editing was done correctly.
What is the status of your Dallas RTC or the Tadiran
CMOS battery?
I have found that if the CMOS battery is dead, you
will get a Invalid Configuration. *I assume* that
when you get that error, a default configuration is
loaded. It appears that hard disk support is not a
part of the default configuration.
I can't offer an explination as to why this happensnor
do I know where the BIOS gets this "default"
configuration. All I know is from my testing, if the
battery (or RTC) is dead, you can't see the hard
drive.
I hope that helps.
-Shawn
--- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
> To Shawn,
>
> Well, this is a followup on the programming.....I
> have not been
> successful. I am trying to use a Conner CP30174E
> hard drive to
> replace the old one in my second 1530 unit. I have
> followed the
> procedure you have detailed adn checked through it
> carefully. My
> PB10 programmer allows me to merge the files, make
> the changes and
> then allows me to program the chips in split fashion
> directly from
> the program itself. I have followed the procedure
> and replaced the
> second entry in the hard drives list with the
> designation of this
> hard drive which is CP30174E. (It does run over the
> next entry and
> erases the CP from the next entry which was the
> CP3044, leaving only
> the 3044 following it).
>
> I went to the hard drive parameter tables and
> carefully inputted the
> parameter data, all duly discovered using hdlook,
> converted into
> hex, then entered in the appropriate places in the
> second hard drive
> parameter table listing (starting at address 6410),
> making sure to
> enter the smaller byte first when the datum
> concerned was a double
> word. I then split the files and calculated the
> checksum and
> adjusted the logo entry letters at the very
> beginning of the file to
> get the checksum to agree with the original file.
>
> I then put the unit together and booted up the unit.
> Unfortunately,
> it didn't work. I was able to get the unit to boot
> up just fine with
> a boot disk, but at boot up I did get the
> configuration error 02,
> which I am assuming is the computer couldn't
> recognize the hard
> drive, and then after the boot disk got the thing
> into DOS, I tried
> FDISK which couldn't find any hard drives present.
>
> I tried this four or five times, reprogramming the
> chips after going
> over the files again and making sure I got them
> correct as per the
> protocol, and using two different CP30174E units. I
> know the hard
> drives are okay as I tested them out on my PC
> machine first But
> still no go....
>
> Any ideas or input out there?
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Phil
> --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "jeriddian"
> <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
> >
> > That's great Shawn!
> > I should get my IC's on Monday, and I can try
> it. I also
> managed
> > to find the same hard drive you have at a use
> parts store,a dn I
> > want to use it also. I hope you updated this all
> on your "how to"
> > instructions. Thanks!
> >
> > Phil
> >
> >
> > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz
> <shawnerz@> wrote:
> > >
> > > All,
> > > I was able to get the my Grid 1520 to boot from
> a 340
> > > MB hard drive AND recognize all 340 MB!!
> > >
> > > The short version of the story is the drive
> parameters
> > > of the drive that you want to boot from, has to
> be the
> > > 2nd entry in the drive table.
> > >
> > > The long version of the story:
> > >
> > > Note: I am going to refer to the hard drive that
> you
> > > wish to install in your Grid as the "new" hard
> drive.
> > > The "default" hard drive is one of the Conner
> hard
> > > drives that the Grid recognizes by default.
> > >
> > > The hard drive parameter table has 23 entries
> for 23
> > > different hard drive types. According to
> hdlook.exe,
> > > HD1 gets loaded with the first table entry and
> HD0
> > > gets the second table entry. I would have
> expected
> > > HD0 to be the first and HD1 to be the second,
> but that
> > > is not the case.
> > >
> > > I made a couple of assumptions. One of them
> turned
> > > out to be wrong. First, I thought as long as
> the new
> > > hard drive parameters of your new hard drive is
> in the
> > > table, anywhere in the table, the Grid will
> recognize
> > > all of it AND boot from it.
> > > The reality is if the new hard drive parameters
> are in
> > > the table, the Grid can boot from it, but it
> will not
> > > "see" all of the drive space. The new hard
> drive
> > > parameters have to be the 2nd table entry.
> > >
> > > When I first entered the parameters for my 340
> MB hard
> > > drive, I diliberatly did not use the first two
> table
> > > entries. The first table entry is for a default
> 10 MB
> > > drive. The second entry of for the CP3024 20 MB
> > > drive. I thought I was being safe by not using
> those
> > > two table entries. I was wrong.
> > > I did some testing, and I got some unexpected
> results.
> > > I couldn't wait until tonight to get some time
> to
> > > test out another idea. It worked!
> > >
> > > It is possible that the new hard drive
> parameters
> > > could be entered into the first table entry. I
> might
> > > try that this weekend if I get some time. Right
> now,
> > > I'm just very happy to have MS-DOS 6.22
> installed on
> > > my Grid and have 335,962,112 bytes free!
> > > -Shawn
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
_____________________________________________________________________
> > _______________
> > > Do you Yahoo!?
> > > Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail
> beta.
> > > http://new.mail.yahoo.com
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
=== message truncated ===
____________________________________________________________________________________
Get your own web address.
Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/domains/?p=BESTDEAL
Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2007 23:11:09 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Larger Hard Drives in a 1520 (Success...finally)
To Shawn,
You are correct in that I was able to get it to boot normally
from the floppy. It just didn't see the hard drive. But then I'm a
little surprised that the CMOS battery would be required to allow
the computer to recognize it. I've had to replace the battery in my
original 1530 once before, and while it was dead, before I replaced
it, the hard drive came up okay. To be honest that doesn't seem
right to me. Now this newer unit doesn't have its battery in it now.
I was planning on putting it in once I got the hard drive going. But
I'll go ahead and try and see if it makes a difference.
But there are some other questions I have as to whether I programmed
the thing right.
Does it matter in which position I put the parameters in the
parameter table? I put in these parameters in the second position in
that table since I listed the hard drive in the second position in
the Hard Drive table.
How does the computer know when to stop reading for the hard drive
designation? Does it just stop and accept it when the complete name
is read and matched to what is on the hard drive, or does the "C" of
the next hard drive name act as a stop character?
As to the Dallas RTC chip, as far as I know it's okay, but how do I
check that?
Thanks for the help, and I ubderstand you're in a rush, so whenever
you're able to get back to me is fine.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> Phil,
> I'm in a rush right now but I wanted to get a response
> to you as quickly as possible.
> The Grid booted from floppy, right? The simple fact
> that it booted from floppy indciated that your BIOS
> editing was done correctly.
>
> What is the status of your Dallas RTC or the Tadiran
> CMOS battery?
> I have found that if the CMOS battery is dead, you
> will get a Invalid Configuration. *I assume* that
> when you get that error, a default configuration is
> loaded. It appears that hard disk support is not a
> part of the default configuration.
> I can't offer an explination as to why this happensnor
> do I know where the BIOS gets this "default"
> configuration. All I know is from my testing, if the
> battery (or RTC) is dead, you can't see the hard
> drive.
> I hope that helps.
> -Shawn
>
> --- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
>
> > To Shawn,
> >
> > Well, this is a followup on the programming.....I
> > have not been
> > successful. I am trying to use a Conner CP30174E
> > hard drive to
> > replace the old one in my second 1530 unit. I have
> > followed the
> > procedure you have detailed adn checked through it
> > carefully. My
> > PB10 programmer allows me to merge the files, make
> > the changes and
> > then allows me to program the chips in split fashion
> > directly from
> > the program itself. I have followed the procedure
> > and replaced the
> > second entry in the hard drives list with the
> > designation of this
> > hard drive which is CP30174E. (It does run over the
> > next entry and
> > erases the CP from the next entry which was the
> > CP3044, leaving only
> > the 3044 following it).
> >
> > I went to the hard drive parameter tables and
> > carefully inputted the
> > parameter data, all duly discovered using hdlook,
> > converted into
> > hex, then entered in the appropriate places in the
> > second hard drive
> > parameter table listing (starting at address 6410),
> > making sure to
> > enter the smaller byte first when the datum
> > concerned was a double
> > word. I then split the files and calculated the
> > checksum and
> > adjusted the logo entry letters at the very
> > beginning of the file to
> > get the checksum to agree with the original file.
> >
> > I then put the unit together and booted up the unit.
> > Unfortunately,
> > it didn't work. I was able to get the unit to boot
> > up just fine with
> > a boot disk, but at boot up I did get the
> > configuration error 02,
> > which I am assuming is the computer couldn't
> > recognize the hard
> > drive, and then after the boot disk got the thing
> > into DOS, I tried
> > FDISK which couldn't find any hard drives present.
> >
> > I tried this four or five times, reprogramming the
> > chips after going
> > over the files again and making sure I got them
> > correct as per the
> > protocol, and using two different CP30174E units. I
> > know the hard
> > drives are okay as I tested them out on my PC
> > machine first But
> > still no go....
> >
> > Any ideas or input out there?
> >
> > Thanks for the help.
> >
> > Phil
> > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "jeriddian"
> > <FelipeGPorresMD@> wrote:
> > >
> > > That's great Shawn!
> > > I should get my IC's on Monday, and I can try
> > it. I also
> > managed
> > > to find the same hard drive you have at a use
> > parts store,a dn I
> > > want to use it also. I hope you updated this all
> > on your "how to"
> > > instructions. Thanks!
> > >
> > > Phil
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz
> > <shawnerz@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > All,
> > > > I was able to get the my Grid 1520 to boot from
> > a 340
> > > > MB hard drive AND recognize all 340 MB!!
> > > >
> > > > The short version of the story is the drive
> > parameters
> > > > of the drive that you want to boot from, has to
> > be the
> > > > 2nd entry in the drive table.
> > > >
> > > > The long version of the story:
> > > >
> > > > Note: I am going to refer to the hard drive that
> > you
> > > > wish to install in your Grid as the "new" hard
> > drive.
> > > > The "default" hard drive is one of the Conner
> > hard
> > > > drives that the Grid recognizes by default.
> > > >
> > > > The hard drive parameter table has 23 entries
> > for 23
> > > > different hard drive types. According to
> > hdlook.exe,
> > > > HD1 gets loaded with the first table entry and
> > HD0
> > > > gets the second table entry. I would have
> > expected
> > > > HD0 to be the first and HD1 to be the second,
> > but that
> > > > is not the case.
> > > >
> > > > I made a couple of assumptions. One of them
> > turned
> > > > out to be wrong. First, I thought as long as
> > the new
> > > > hard drive parameters of your new hard drive is
> > in the
> > > > table, anywhere in the table, the Grid will
> > recognize
> > > > all of it AND boot from it.
> > > > The reality is if the new hard drive parameters
> > are in
> > > > the table, the Grid can boot from it, but it
> > will not
> > > > "see" all of the drive space. The new hard
> > drive
> > > > parameters have to be the 2nd table entry.
> > > >
> > > > When I first entered the parameters for my 340
> > MB hard
> > > > drive, I diliberatly did not use the first two
> > table
> > > > entries. The first table entry is for a default
> > 10 MB
> > > > drive. The second entry of for the CP3024 20 MB
> > > > drive. I thought I was being safe by not using
> > those
> > > > two table entries. I was wrong.
> > > > I did some testing, and I got some unexpected
> > results.
> > > > I couldn't wait until tonight to get some time
> > to
> > > > test out another idea. It worked!
> > > >
> > > > It is possible that the new hard drive
> > parameters
> > > > could be entered into the first table entry. I
> > might
> > > > try that this weekend if I get some time. Right
> > now,
> > > > I'm just very happy to have MS-DOS 6.22
> > installed on
> > > > my Grid and have 335,962,112 bytes free!
> > > > -Shawn
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
_____________________________________________________________________
> > > _______________
> > > > Do you Yahoo!?
> > > > Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail
> > beta.
> > > > http://new.mail.yahoo.com
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> > mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________________
_______________
> Get your own web address.
> Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
> http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/domains/?p=BESTDEAL
>
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2007 09:31:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: Larger Hard Drives in a 1520 (Success...finally)
Phil,
Yesterday's rush is over. Thankfully. :)
> before I replaced
> it, the hard drive came up okay. To be honest that
> doesn't seem
> right to me.
I agree, it does not seem right to me either. But my
1502's won't see a hard drive unless the CMOS battery
is there or the Dallas RTC is good.
> Does it matter in which position I put the
> parameters in the
> parameter table?
As far as I know (AFAIK), no.
> How does the computer know when to stop reading for
> the hard drive
> designation?
I don't know this either. I have questions about this
as well. The space is 35 bytes. 35 isn't a nice
computer number. By that I mean that 35 is not a
multiple of 2^n. Also, each hard drive parameter has
a different field length. Some are 5 characters
(CP344) and others are 6 characters (CP3022).
I notice in the 1520 BIOS file and the 1530 BIOS file,
the last entry is CP3104R. Perhaps the 'R' is a
character that signifies the end of the hard drive
list.
> As to the Dallas RTC chip, as far as I know it's
> okay, but how do I
> check that?
With a voltmeter, check between pins 16(-) and 20(+).
Here is a site that lists how to hack the 1287.
http://www.mcamafia.de/mcapage0/dsrework.htm
Good luck,
-Shawn
____________________________________________________________________________________
8:00? 8:25? 8:40? Find a flick in no time
with the Yahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#news
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2007 03:22:19 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Larger Hard Drives in a 1520 (Success...finally)
Shawn,
The CMOS battery didn't change anything. I was able to add it in
and I still got the failure code 02. I put in the new date and time,
and when I rebooted, the new date and time held up and stayed in the
system, so I know the battery is inputing where it should in regards
to that. So maybe the battery is needed for the 1520 in terms of
making the HDD work, although to be honest I still have my doubts
about that. However, for the 1530, it looks like the CMOS battery
doesn't have anything to do with getting the hard drive recognized.
However, I did notice something else. I went ahead and looked at
the BIOS chips from my 1530 which has the plasma screen. The code on
that BIOS is significantly different, but the hard drive and hard
drive parameter tables are in the same places as the other unit which
only has a monochrome screen. When I upgraded my original unit, I
also upgraded to the CP 30104 100 MB hard drive. But now I see that
drive is described in the hard drive table as CP3104, the last drive
in the table. It has to be that one, as there is no other drive there
that fits the CP30104 which was working originally in my upgraded
unit. So that tells me that maybe they only had enough room in the
hard drive table to use four of the numbers for that drive. It makes
sense as they originally planned to be able to use a certain number
of hard drives for the unit when they were in production back then,
and the CP30104 100 MB unit was one of the ones you could opt for,
though it was not standard out of the box. You could upgrade to it,
and thus the information for it was in the hard drive table, but I
think as CP3104, because they didn't have enough room for five
nuumbers.
Secondly, looking at the hard dirve parameter tables, as you have
noted, there are a lot of differently described parameters, a lot
more than six. When I looked carefully, I think I noticed a pattern.
In my parameter table, the list goes on for about 45 different
descriptions of hard drive parameters. but the first ones have
smaller numbers in them for their cylinders and heads, and they
steadily increase. You mentioned in a previous post that the first
hard drive listed in the hard drive table is the default 10 MB HDD.
Then the next one would the 20 MB HDD, the next a 40 MB HDD, and so
on.
When I was looking at the CP30174E's I have (I've procured four),
I noticed they weren't all the same in terms of their parameters. One
of them had 903 cylinders, 8 heads, 46 sectors per track. Another one
of them had 1303 cylinders, 15 heads, and 17 sectors per track. A
third one had 651 cylinders, 30 heads, and 17 sectors per track. Yet
these were all the same designated drives, all CP30174E's.
Maybe these early hard drives, for whatever reason, possibly
depending on different manufacturing processes, can have the same
name in terms of the drive itself, yet individual units might have
differing parameters. If so, that might explain why there are so many
different configurations listed. It may be that the first five or six
listed parameter groupings, which have lower numbers, correspond to
the possible parameter combinations for the 10 MB HDD. Maybe then the
next five or six or seven correspond to the next designated HDD from
the hard drive table and so on. I haven't done it, but I'll bet if
you take each cylinder count, head count, and sector count from each
table listing and multiply them out to get the capacity of the listed
drives, I'll bet you'll find the first few sets compute out to 10 MB,
the next several to 20 MB, and so on.
I know I'm speculating a bit, but I think I've got some pretty
good data to go by. I'm going to try again with the CP30174, but what
I'm going to try is to change the last entry of CP3104 to CP3174, and
see how that works. And for the parameter table, (if I'm right), I'll
compute where the 100 MB section begins, and try to add in the
parameters of the 170 MB HDD there. If that doesn't work, I may go
back to trying the second entry again.
I have also obtained a CFS420A. I believe that's the hard drive
you got for your 1520. (?) If so, would you mind sending me a copy of
your BIOS so I can see how you put it in your tables (or maybe you
already uploaded it to the file section. I'll have to check.)
I'll get back to you on the Dallas Chip. It doesn't seem to be
the problem though.
Anyway, anything you might know that might enlighted me on all
this (or disprove me, which is fine too) would be helpful.
Thanks
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> Phil,
> Yesterday's rush is over. Thankfully. :)
>
> > before I replaced
> > it, the hard drive came up okay. To be honest that
> > doesn't seem
> > right to me.
>
> I agree, it does not seem right to me either. But my
> 1502's won't see a hard drive unless the CMOS battery
> is there or the Dallas RTC is good.
>
>
> > Does it matter in which position I put the
> > parameters in the
> > parameter table?
>
> As far as I know (AFAIK), no.
>
> > How does the computer know when to stop reading for
> > the hard drive
> > designation?
>
> I don't know this either. I have questions about this
> as well. The space is 35 bytes. 35 isn't a nice
> computer number. By that I mean that 35 is not a
> multiple of 2^n. Also, each hard drive parameter has
> a different field length. Some are 5 characters
> (CP344) and others are 6 characters (CP3022).
> I notice in the 1520 BIOS file and the 1530 BIOS file,
> the last entry is CP3104R. Perhaps the 'R' is a
> character that signifies the end of the hard drive
> list.
>
> > As to the Dallas RTC chip, as far as I know it's
> > okay, but how do I
> > check that?
>
> With a voltmeter, check between pins 16(-) and 20(+).
> Here is a site that lists how to hack the 1287.
> http://www.mcamafia.de/mcapage0/dsrework.htm
>
> Good luck,
> -Shawn
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> 8:00? 8:25? 8:40? Find a flick in no time
> with the Yahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut.
> http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#news
>
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2007 15:16:26 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Replacing the DS1287 with a DS12887
The DS1287 can be replaced in some computers with the DS12887 or
DS12887A. The DS12887/DS12887A is still available for purchase. I
have uploaded the file concerning this directly from the manufacturer
(Maxim Electronics). The only question that came up is that the
DS12887 cannot replace the DS1287 in some computers because the
compuer will try to access the wrong time clock registers within the
DS12887 circuitry. In that case, the computer will not boot up.
However, in an earlier post, someone has already tried this fix and
it seemed to work. It looks like that the dead DS1287 may be the
cause of the invalid configuration code 02 that you will get on
bootup. I've reposted that post below:
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "GRenno" <grenno@...> wrote:
>
>
> Wow, I was able to get one of them working. I bought a new DS12887A
> chip unsoldered the old DS1287A and installed it on the
motherboard.
> This fixed my configuration error 02! *Note I was not able to
> install a chip adapter between the motherboard and the DS12887A
> because there was not enough room between the board and the
> keyboard, so I soldered it directly like the old one was.
BigWalk uploaded a file on the DS12887 circuitry, but I uploaded a
file dealing with replacing the DS1287 in a PC which I hope is
helpful.
I started looking into this because I was in a Fry's electronics
store looking for a battery holder (for the 1/2 AA cell lithium
battery) when I came across two DS 12887 chips individually packaged
for sale at the store. I also found battery holders for the 1/2 AA
lithium batteries and I will plan on using those for easier
replacement of the battery in the future.
Now this is the strange thing. In the 1530 I just obtained, it does
have a DS1287 RTC in it. However the original 1530 I have owned since
I bought it in 1986 does not. Looks like it's a completely different
revision. Go figure... :)
Anyway, I guess I'll have to replace the RTC in the first 1530, as it
appears that the invalid configuration 02 may be due to that.
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2007 09:19:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Replacing the DS1287 with a DS12887
> Now this is the strange thing. In the 1530 I just
> obtained, it does
> have a DS1287 RTC in it. However the original 1530 I
> have owned since
> I bought it in 1986 does not. Looks like it's a
> completely different
> revision. Go figure... :)
>
> Anyway, I guess I'll have to replace the RTC in the
> first 1530, as it
> appears that the invalid configuration 02 may be due
> to that.
I now have 4 1520's. 3 (motherboard revisions E and
AE) have Tadiran batteries for the CMOS. Board
revision AR has the Dallas RTC.
Additionally, member "Zentaro" (Andrea), has a
revision "1/90" that has the Dallas RTC.
A couple of months ago, Andrea posted a link to
pictures of his 1520. He made a modification that
extends the battery leads of the 1287 to a more
accessible area (by the RAM) where a battery can be
attached.
-Shawn
____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2007 19:25:03 -0800
From:
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: Larger Hard Drives in a 1520 (Success...finally)
CMOS failure...
Unit says the record is corrupt, strike F1, when you do so it resets the CMOS to default, never resets or tests the drive and attempts to boot from a floppy.
Do not turn the GRiD off, use a keyboard reset <Ctrl><Alt><Delete>
The system has set the CMOS to default. If you cycle the power you loose the default settings and start from scratch. Since the reset command has naver been sent to the interface it sounds like the drive didn't start properlly.
After the keyboard reset (three finger salute) the system will respond with a real time clock error (strike F1) than boot from the hard drive.
---- Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
> Phil,
> Yesterday's rush is over. Thankfully. :)
>
> > before I replaced
> > it, the hard drive came up okay. To be honest that
> > doesn't seem
> > right to me.
>
> I agree, it does not seem right to me either. But my
> 1502's won't see a hard drive unless the CMOS battery
> is there or the Dallas RTC is good.
>
>
> > Does it matter in which position I put the
> > parameters in the
> > parameter table?
>
> As far as I know (AFAIK), no.
>
> > How does the computer know when to stop reading for
> > the hard drive
> > designation?
>
> I don't know this either. I have questions about this
> as well. The space is 35 bytes. 35 isn't a nice
> computer number. By that I mean that 35 is not a
> multiple of 2^n. Also, each hard drive parameter has
> a different field length. Some are 5 characters
> (CP344) and others are 6 characters (CP3022).
> I notice in the 1520 BIOS file and the 1530 BIOS file,
> the last entry is CP3104R. Perhaps the 'R' is a
> character that signifies the end of the hard drive
> list.
>
> > As to the Dallas RTC chip, as far as I know it's
> > okay, but how do I
> > check that?
>
> With a voltmeter, check between pins 16(-) and 20(+).
> Here is a site that lists how to hack the 1287.
> http://www.mcamafia.de/mcapage0/dsrework.htm
>
> Good luck,
> -Shawn
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> 8:00? 8:25? 8:40? Find a flick in no time
> with the Yahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut.
> http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#news
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2007 19:28:01 -0800
From:
Subject: ROM-DOS
In case anyone is interested I just fell into about a dozen 27C010 chips, these can be programed with a disk image and placed in the CGA video module, (under the little door atop the keyboard) Conf1520 has a line that allows you to set these as active, and boot drives.
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2007 20:45:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] ROM-DOS
Charles,
I'm interested. How much and where did you find them?
-Shawn
--- charlieford1@... wrote:
> In case anyone is interested I just fell into about
> a dozen 27C010 chips, these can be programed with a
> disk image and placed in the CGA video module,
> (under the little door atop the keyboard) Conf1520
> has a line that allows you to set these as active,
> and boot drives.
>
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
http://tv.yahoo.com/
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2007 16:09:44 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Larger Hard Drives in a 1520 (Success...finally)
Thanks, Charles,
I appreciate the advice. Fortunately, the problem was simply that
the Dallas 1287 RTC was dead. I managed to procure its replacement,
the Dallas 12887A chip (which you can still order if you don't
already know, about $20) and replaced it on the motherboard. The old
CP3044 hard drive was also dead (motor simply did not run at all),
and I replaced it with a Conner CP30174E. As per Shawn's protocol,
which he has put up in the files section, I used a Needham's PB10
programmer on an old 75 Mhz P1 machine running DOS to burn the new
EPROMS for the BIOS, writing the name and the parameters of the new
hard drive into the appropriate tables (second entry listing was
replaced in each table BTW), also correcting the checksum
accordingly, then made sure the C/D and ATA/IDE jumpers were placed
on the front of the drive (to enable the whole drive being able to be
formatted instead of hitting a 32 MB limit), and put the whole thing
together. Both the new Dallas chip and the changes to the BIOS are
required to enable the computer to recognize the hard drive
and it worked beautifully. The computer is now running with MSDOS
6.22 loaded on it with a 170 MB HDD.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, <charlieford1@...> wrote:
>
> CMOS failure...
>
> Unit says the record is corrupt, strike F1, when you do so it
resets the CMOS to default, never resets or tests the drive and
attempts to boot from a floppy.
>
> Do not turn the GRiD off, use a keyboard reset <Ctrl><Alt><Delete>
> The system has set the CMOS to default. If you cycle the power you
loose the default settings and start from scratch. Since the reset
command has naver been sent to the interface it sounds like the drive
didn't start properlly.
>
> After the keyboard reset (three finger salute) the system will
respond with a real time clock error (strike F1) than boot from the
hard drive.
>
> ---- Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
> > Phil,
> > Yesterday's rush is over. Thankfully. :)
> >
> > > before I replaced
> > > it, the hard drive came up okay. To be honest that
> > > doesn't seem
> > > right to me.
> >
> > I agree, it does not seem right to me either. But my
> > 1502's won't see a hard drive unless the CMOS battery
> > is there or the Dallas RTC is good.
> >
> >
> > > Does it matter in which position I put the
> > > parameters in the
> > > parameter table?
> >
> > As far as I know (AFAIK), no.
> >
> > > How does the computer know when to stop reading for
> > > the hard drive
> > > designation?
> >
> > I don't know this either. I have questions about this
> > as well. The space is 35 bytes. 35 isn't a nice
> > computer number. By that I mean that 35 is not a
> > multiple of 2^n. Also, each hard drive parameter has
> > a different field length. Some are 5 characters
> > (CP344) and others are 6 characters (CP3022).
> > I notice in the 1520 BIOS file and the 1530 BIOS file,
> > the last entry is CP3104R. Perhaps the 'R' is a
> > character that signifies the end of the hard drive
> > list.
> >
> > > As to the Dallas RTC chip, as far as I know it's
> > > okay, but how do I
> > > check that?
> >
> > With a voltmeter, check between pins 16(-) and 20(+).
> > Here is a site that lists how to hack the 1287.
> > http://www.mcamafia.de/mcapage0/dsrework.htm
> >
> > Good luck,
> > -Shawn
> >
> >
> >
> >
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> > 8:00? 8:25? 8:40? Find a flick in no time
> > with the Yahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut.
> > http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#news
>
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 17:32:40 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Grid 1500 Harware Service Course; Student Guide
Hey guys,
In a recent missive to Shawn, I told him about something that I had
completely forgotten about. I had been in touch with GRiD back in the
early 1990's about my 1530, I think about the time I had it upgraded,
and I wanted to know more about repairing it and knowing about its
inner workings. I don't remember exactly how but somebody at Grid (or
Tandy, I can't remember which), sent me this strip bound tome with the
above mentioned title. This thing is huge, about 500 pages front and
back. I had completely forgotten I had it until just recently. There is
a lot of very good data in this book and it is aimed specifically at
giving out dinformation on the repair of the 1520 and 1530. There are
things like pin assignments, beep codes, adn all other sorts of
technical data that I think would be very helpful to all of us here.
Give me some time as I am going to scan and turn it into a .pdf file.
It may take a couple of weeks or so.
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 11:38:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Grid 1500 Harware Service Course; Student Guide
Phil,
Thanks for your help and time with that effort.
Scanning close to 1,000 pages is one big pain in the
butt!
I know I'm looking forward to seeing the book when
you're done.
Thanks,
-Shawn
--- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
> Hey guys,
> In a recent missive to Shawn, I told him about
> something that I had
> completely forgotten about. I had been in touch with
> GRiD back in the
> early 1990's about my 1530, I think about the time I
> had it upgraded,
> and I wanted to know more about repairing it and
> knowing about its
> inner workings. I don't remember exactly how but
> somebody at Grid (or
> Tandy, I can't remember which), sent me this strip
> bound tome with the
> above mentioned title. This thing is huge, about 500
> pages front and
> back. I had completely forgotten I had it until just
> recently. There is
> a lot of very good data in this book and it is aimed
> specifically at
> giving out dinformation on the repair of the 1520
> and 1530. There are
> things like pin assignments, beep codes, adn all
> other sorts of
> technical data that I think would be very helpful to
> all of us here.
> Give me some time as I am going to scan and turn it
> into a .pdf file.
> It may take a couple of weeks or so.
>
>
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for earth-friendly autos?
Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 14:49:35 -0400
From: Michael Alwan
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Grid 1500 Harware Service Course; Student Guide
text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
My first post, as the proud owner of a 1520 with a dead hard drive
(at least):
Phil, you may be able to get the book scanned by a "data conversion"
firm for low hundreds of US$, if your time is worth more than that.
They will have a fast, purpose-built scanner with a document feeder.
Usually, the scanning intent is for OCR, so the scan would be less
than 200 DPI I imagine. Surely you can negotiate the output.
This is info I collected after doing a large OCR job with a flatbed
scanner! It would have been much cheaper for my client to start with
a fast machine (neither of us knew at the time).
Mike
On Mar 30, 2007, at 2:38 PM, Shawnerz wrote:
> Phil,
> Thanks for your help and time with that effort.
> Scanning close to 1,000 pages is one big pain in the
> butt!
> I know I'm looking forward to seeing the book when
> you're done.
> Thanks,
> -Shawn
>
> --- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
>
> > Give me some time as I am going to scan and turn it
> > into a .pdf file.
> > It may take a couple of weeks or so.
> >
>
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 19:01:33 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Grid 1500 Harware Service Course; Student Guide
Thanks, Mike.
Actually I have looked into that. Fedex Kinko's for example will do
it for 99 cents a page, and I could work a deal for a cheaper price.
However, I don't really wish to spend that kind of money. It's
actually a lot cheaper for me to buy a multifeed scanner myself. I
already bought a used one for about a hundred bucks, and am waiting
on it to come in.
One reason I'm doing it this way is so that I can scan the book into
Adobe Acrobat directly (I have the full version 7), and get it OCR'd
at the same time so that you can use Acrobat Reader's features to
look up anything on it you want, which an outsourcing deal probably
won't give me. The multiscan feeder goes at about ten pages a minute,
so that's why it'll take a little while.
I don't mind spending the time, and I can't justify spending quite
that much money on duplicating the book electronically.
I'll let you all know when I'm done. :)
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Michael Alwan <mjalwan@...>
wrote:
>
> My first post, as the proud owner of a 1520 with a dead hard drive
> (at least):
>
> Phil, you may be able to get the book scanned by a "data
conversion"
> firm for low hundreds of US$, if your time is worth more than
that.
> They will have a fast, purpose-built scanner with a document
feeder.
> Usually, the scanning intent is for OCR, so the scan would be less
> than 200 DPI I imagine. Surely you can negotiate the output.
>
> This is info I collected after doing a large OCR job with a
flatbed
> scanner! It would have been much cheaper for my client to start
with
> a fast machine (neither of us knew at the time).
>
> Mike
>
> On Mar 30, 2007, at 2:38 PM, Shawnerz wrote:
>
> > Phil,
> > Thanks for your help and time with that effort.
> > Scanning close to 1,000 pages is one big pain in the
> > butt!
> > I know I'm looking forward to seeing the book when
> > you're done.
> > Thanks,
> > -Shawn
> >
> > --- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
> >
> > > Give me some time as I am going to scan and turn it
> > > into a .pdf file.
> > > It may take a couple of weeks or so.
> > >
> >
>
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 15:02:44 -0400
From: Michael Alwan
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: Grid 1500 Harware Service Course; Student Guide
text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
On Mar 30, 2007, at 3:01 PM, jeriddian wrote:
> Thanks, Mike.
>
> It's
> actually a lot cheaper for me to buy a multifeed scanner myself. I
> already bought a used one for about a hundred bucks, and am waiting
> on it to come in.
>
I must remember that. :-)
Thank you for your service, as we are wont to say nowadays!
Mike
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2007 05:38:08 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Grid 1500 Harware Service Course; Student Guide
I am presently in the process of converting the documents over to pdf
as I received the scanner today and have hooked it up. I had never
really looked through the whole thing. There is actually a lot more
than I realized. Below is the list of what is fully present:
Gridcase 1500 Hardware Service Course: Student Guide
Gridcase 1500 Field Diagnostics
Gridcase 1500 Disassmebly/Reassembly Instructions
Gridcase 1500 No Boot Procedure
Gridcase 1500 Hardware Service Course
Gridcase 1535 EXP Owner's Manual
GRidcase 1500 Series Hardware Technical Reference Manual
Hoo Boy, we're going to have fun, I think. :)
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Michael Alwan <mjalwan@...> wrote:
>
>
> On Mar 30, 2007, at 3:01 PM, jeriddian wrote:
>
> > Thanks, Mike.
> >
> > It's
> > actually a lot cheaper for me to buy a multifeed scanner myself. I
> > already bought a used one for about a hundred bucks, and am waiting
> > on it to come in.
> >
> I must remember that. :-)
>
> Thank you for your service, as we are wont to say nowadays!
>
> Mike
>
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2007 07:06:00 -0800
From: KenS
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: Grid 1500 Harware Service Course; Student Guide
jeriddian wrote:
>
> Below is the list of what is fully present:
>
> Gridcase 1500 Hardware Service Course: Student Guide
> Gridcase 1500 Field Diagnostics
> Gridcase 1500 Disassmebly/Reassembly Instructions
> Gridcase 1500 No Boot Procedure
> Gridcase 1500 Hardware Service Course
> Gridcase 1535 EXP Owner's Manual
> GRidcase 1500 Series Hardware Technical Reference Manual
>
I am very interested in the 1535 EXP Owner's Manual. Name your price
and I'll pay.
Engr Ken
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2007 17:20:15 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Grid 1500 Harware Service Course; Student Guide
Dear Ken,
Unless you had a couple of million dollars to spend, money is no
big object, within reason of course. (grin). :)
I will be glad to share the information as I will be posting all
of the manuals in the file section. However, I can only hope the file
section can take them as two or three of the full manuals will be
very large files. In that case, other arrangements can be made.
I must confess that this is taking a heck of a lot more work
than I had anticipated, but I'm glad to do it. If you or any of the
other members of the forum could help, I would like to obtain some
1MB memory sticks for my working 1530 as well as the parts to upgrade
to a backlit plasma LCD. In regards to the memory, it presently only
has eight 256Kb sticks and I would like to upgrade it to the full 8
Mb it can take. Would you happen to know where I could get eight of
those sticks or the LCD plasma display?
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, KenS <engrken@...> wrote:
>
> jeriddian wrote:
> >
> > Below is the list of what is fully present:
> >
> > Gridcase 1500 Hardware Service Course: Student Guide
> > Gridcase 1500 Field Diagnostics
> > Gridcase 1500 Disassmebly/Reassembly Instructions
> > Gridcase 1500 No Boot Procedure
> > Gridcase 1500 Hardware Service Course
> > Gridcase 1535 EXP Owner's Manual
> > GRidcase 1500 Series Hardware Technical Reference Manual
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I am very interested in the 1535 EXP Owner's Manual. Name your
price
> and I'll pay.
>
> Engr Ken
>
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2007 21:38:44 -0000
From: "androgenoide"
Subject: Re: Grid 1500 Harware Service Course; Student Guide
I assume you have better OCR software than I do. Whenever I scan a
lot of text I end up spending a ridiculous amount of time doing clean-
up. Scanning to a jpeg is easier on my time but results in enormous
files.
Since Yahoo recently upgraded groups file storage to 100Mb there
should be plenty of space for the pdf.
One of my Grids came with a set of user manuals and the thought of
scanning them did cross my mind but, as I said, there seemed to be a
lot of clean-up involved (and I doubt that it would be worth hundreds
of dollars to me to pay someone to do it). I wouldn't be opposed to
the idea of sending them to someone else who wanted to copy them, of
course...
James
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "jeriddian"
<FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
>
> I am presently in the process of converting the documents over to
pdf
> as I received the scanner today and have hooked it up. I had never
> really looked through the whole thing. There is actually a lot more
> than I realized. Below is the list of what is fully present:
>
> Gridcase 1500 Hardware Service Course: Student Guide
> Gridcase 1500 Field Diagnostics
> Gridcase 1500 Disassmebly/Reassembly Instructions
> Gridcase 1500 No Boot Procedure
> Gridcase 1500 Hardware Service Course
> Gridcase 1535 EXP Owner's Manual
> GRidcase 1500 Series Hardware Technical Reference Manual
>
> Hoo Boy, we're going to have fun, I think. :)
>
>
> --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Michael Alwan <mjalwan@>
wrote:
> >
> >
> > On Mar 30, 2007, at 3:01 PM, jeriddian wrote:
> >
> > > Thanks, Mike.
> > >
> > > It's
> > > actually a lot cheaper for me to buy a multifeed scanner
myself. I
> > > already bought a used one for about a hundred bucks, and am
waiting
> > > on it to come in.
> > >
> > I must remember that. :-)
> >
> > Thank you for your service, as we are wont to say nowadays!
> >
> > Mike
> >
>
Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2007 07:48:56 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Grid 1500 Harware Service Course; Student Guide
It depends on which program you use. I've scanned whole books into
Wordperfect and come up with an editable text that I later scanned
back into PDF format which was very time consuming as I ended up with
a very editable document that I could do all sorts of things with,
but that took an incredible large amount of time.
This time I'm using Adobe Acrobat Full version 7.09 and directly
scanning the documents into that with maximum accuracy on the scan at
400 dpi. You can't edit it per se, but you should be able to do
search functions.
It's working out pretty well actually.
Phil;
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "androgenoide"
<androgenoide@...> wrote:
>
> I assume you have better OCR software than I do. Whenever I scan
a
> lot of text I end up spending a ridiculous amount of time doing
clean-
> up. Scanning to a jpeg is easier on my time but results in enormous
> files.
>
> Since Yahoo recently upgraded groups file storage to 100Mb there
> should be plenty of space for the pdf.
>
> One of my Grids came with a set of user manuals and the thought of
> scanning them did cross my mind but, as I said, there seemed to be
a
> lot of clean-up involved (and I doubt that it would be worth
hundreds
> of dollars to me to pay someone to do it). I wouldn't be opposed
to
> the idea of sending them to someone else who wanted to copy them,
of
> course...
>
> James
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "jeriddian"
> <FelipeGPorresMD@> wrote:
> >
> > I am presently in the process of converting the documents over to
> pdf
> > as I received the scanner today and have hooked it up. I had
never
> > really looked through the whole thing. There is actually a lot
more
> > than I realized. Below is the list of what is fully present:
> >
> > Gridcase 1500 Hardware Service Course: Student Guide
> > Gridcase 1500 Field Diagnostics
> > Gridcase 1500 Disassmebly/Reassembly Instructions
> > Gridcase 1500 No Boot Procedure
> > Gridcase 1500 Hardware Service Course
> > Gridcase 1535 EXP Owner's Manual
> > GRidcase 1500 Series Hardware Technical Reference Manual
> >
> > Hoo Boy, we're going to have fun, I think. :)
> >
> >
> > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Michael Alwan <mjalwan@>
> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > On Mar 30, 2007, at 3:01 PM, jeriddian wrote:
> > >
> > > > Thanks, Mike.
> > > >
> > > > It's
> > > > actually a lot cheaper for me to buy a multifeed scanner
> myself. I
> > > > already bought a used one for about a hundred bucks, and am
> waiting
> > > > on it to come in.
> > > >
> > > I must remember that. :-)
> > >
> > > Thank you for your service, as we are wont to say nowadays!
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> >
>
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2007 12:26:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: Lawrence Walker
Subject: Re: Grid 1500 Harware Service Course; Student Guide
WOW what a find Phil !! Not only for you but for all
the GRID 15xx enthusiasts, and that you have the
graciousness to want to share it with us. With Shawn
having seemingly unlocked the HDD secrets of the BIOS
our cup overflows.
I was able to upgrade a 1520 with low-profile SIPPs a
few years ago that I got on EBay. They're a PIA to
install and I destroyed the pins on 4 of the 8 I
acquired. Up until the last gasp of my Conner HD I had
Win 3.1 installed. I've occasionally seen offers for
them on the vintage collector forums. I had also found
a company that still sold them but they would only
sell in large quantity. I'm afraid I've lost their
address however.
Lawrence
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2007 23:00:54 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Grid 1500 Harware Service Course; Student Guide
Thank you, Lawrence
I'm most happy to share. But I also appreciate the
reciprocity. I'll look for the low profile SIPP's on the vintage
sites, but if you could possibly find the name of that company that
makes those memory sticks, I would like to look into what I could
with that information. I would appreciate it.
Right now, I'm halfway through scanning these manuals. I have
to go out of town this weekend, so I will be back and should finish
the scanning next weekend. The technical manual by itself looks like
is going to be about 100Mb even as a PDF file, so I'll see if I can
get it on the site then.
'til then guys. Hate to make you wait, but real life goes on. :)
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Lawrence Walker
<bigwalk_ca@...> wrote:
>
> WOW what a find Phil !! Not only for you but for all
> the GRID 15xx enthusiasts, and that you have the
> graciousness to want to share it with us. With Shawn
> having seemingly unlocked the HDD secrets of the BIOS
> our cup overflows.
> I was able to upgrade a 1520 with low-profile SIPPs a
> few years ago that I got on EBay. They're a PIA to
> install and I destroyed the pins on 4 of the 8 I
> acquired. Up until the last gasp of my Conner HD I had
> Win 3.1 installed. I've occasionally seen offers for
> them on the vintage collector forums. I had also found
> a company that still sold them but they would only
> sell in large quantity. I'm afraid I've lost their
> address however.
>
> Lawrence
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2007 14:49:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: Lawrence Walker
Subject: Re: Grid 1500 Harware Service Course; Student Guide
OK, here is an old communication I dug up. Can't find
any further exchanges but I believe they wanted a
larger order than what I required. ISTR suggesting to
the group at that time of a group buy with no
response.
Possibly I acquired the SIPPs on EBAY about that time.
Don't know if this guy is still even working there,
but there is an 800 # and they still have a web
presence.
There are a multitude of Vintage computer sites out
there and most have For sale or trade and WTB
listings.
I believe I saw the SIPP offering several years ago
on the Obsolete Computer site
Lawrence
...................................................
...................................................
Lawrence sorry about the delay
I have 1x9 sipps for $5.00
4x9 sipps
Just let me know
Hank Staffa
Rocky Mountain Ram
1-800-543-0932
www.ram-it.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Lawrence Walker
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 4:38 PM
To: hstaffa@...
Subject: SIPP ram
I have been looking for a source for SIPPs and was
directed to you by Sellam Ismael of the Vintage
Computer Festival. I looked on your website and could
find no trace of reference. Could you give me more
info. Thanks.
Lawrence Walker
---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 10:50:32 -0700
From: Hank Staffa <hstaffa@...>
To: vcf@...
Subject: Question
Do you have a need
I have boxes of old memory upgrades starting with sipp
modules.
Does your organization have a use for these?
Hank Staffa
Rocky Mountain Ram
1-800-543-0932
www.ram-it.com
......................................................
......................................................
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2007 04:10:35 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Grid 1500 Harware Service Course; Student Guide
Thanks Lawrence,
I tried the 800 number and contacted Rocky Mountain Ram.
Apparently, this Hank Staffa person hasn't worked here for years. I
talked to the lady who was there and gave her the specifications for
which I was looking and she said that she would look and see if she
had any of the sticks and call me back.
Oh, well, I'll keep trying. The manuals should be on the forum
this weekend. :)
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Lawrence Walker
<bigwalk_ca@...> wrote:
>
> OK, here is an old communication I dug up. Can't find
> any further exchanges but I believe they wanted a
> larger order than what I required. ISTR suggesting to
> the group at that time of a group buy with no
> response.
> Possibly I acquired the SIPPs on EBAY about that time.
> Don't know if this guy is still even working there,
> but there is an 800 # and they still have a web
> presence.
>
> There are a multitude of Vintage computer sites out
> there and most have For sale or trade and WTB
> listings.
> I believe I saw the SIPP offering several years ago
> on the Obsolete Computer site
>
> Lawrence
> ...................................................
> ...................................................
>
> Lawrence sorry about the delay
> I have 1x9 sipps for $5.00
> 4x9 sipps
> Just let me know
>
> Hank Staffa
> Rocky Mountain Ram
> 1-800-543-0932
> www.ram-it.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lawrence Walker
> Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 4:38 PM
> To: hstaffa@...
> Subject: SIPP ram
>
> I have been looking for a source for SIPPs and was
> directed to you by Sellam Ismael of the Vintage
> Computer Festival. I looked on your website and could
> find no trace of reference. Could you give me more
> info. Thanks.
>
> Lawrence Walker
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 10:50:32 -0700
> From: Hank Staffa <hstaffa@...>
> To: vcf@...
> Subject: Question
>
> Do you have a need
> I have boxes of old memory upgrades starting with sipp
>
> modules.
> Does your organization have a use for these?
>
> Hank Staffa
> Rocky Mountain Ram
> 1-800-543-0932
> www.ram-it.com
> ......................................................
> ......................................................
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2007 21:17:57 -0000
From: "Dave"
Subject: sipps
if someone does come up with a place to buy them
email me i would like some as i use a 1520 in the work shop
with a win 3.1 card file program of MC parts and would like to be able
to run a pdf viewer but memory is the main problem
running dos 6 plus x.22 goodies and win 3.1
also any one that can do the bigger hard drive conversion
some where i have a 420 that fits that way i can preload the pdf files
and use it to work on my old bikes
ar dave
wd8cyv(at)yahoo.com put grig computers in subject line so trash
filter does not dump you
i also have a 1755 that ran the last time i fired it up
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2007 15:16:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Grid 1520 Booting from Compact Flash
Just thought I'd let everyone know that I'm working on
getting my 1520 to boot from Compact Flash.
My first attempt ended in failure.
I modified my BIOS with the information from hdlook.
With the compact flash out of its carrier, on boot up,
I get a confusing memory error. I do not have my
notes with me so I cannot give the exact words.
However, it says something like "Memory Error at
address (XXXXX, I can't remember). expected FFFF,
received FFFF."
Accroding to the message, the computer received what
it expected, so there shouldn't be an error.
The Grid continues to boot but only allows me 640K of
memory - out of 2 meg installed.
If I insert the compact flash, the computer does a
series of beeps, and then nothing. I think the beep
sequence is 1 beep, followed by 3 beeps, then 1 beep.
The CF is a 512 MB, type 1.
When I get some free time, I will try my 8 MB CF that
came with my digital camera.
-Shawn
____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a PS3 game guru.
Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games.
http://videogames.yahoo.com/platform?platform=120121
Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2007 22:46:23 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Grid 1520 Booting from Compact Flash
Shawn,
Once I post the manuals this weekend, the beep codes are included
in there which can tell you what that means. I'm out of town right
now so I can't look it up, but it will be available to you soon.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> Just thought I'd let everyone know that I'm working on
> getting my 1520 to boot from Compact Flash.
> My first attempt ended in failure.
>
> I modified my BIOS with the information from hdlook.
> With the compact flash out of its carrier, on boot up,
> I get a confusing memory error. I do not have my
> notes with me so I cannot give the exact words.
> However, it says something like "Memory Error at
> address (XXXXX, I can't remember). expected FFFF,
> received FFFF."
>
> Accroding to the message, the computer received what
> it expected, so there shouldn't be an error.
>
> The Grid continues to boot but only allows me 640K of
> memory - out of 2 meg installed.
>
> If I insert the compact flash, the computer does a
> series of beeps, and then nothing. I think the beep
> sequence is 1 beep, followed by 3 beeps, then 1 beep.
>
> The CF is a 512 MB, type 1.
> When I get some free time, I will try my 8 MB CF that
> came with my digital camera.
>
> -Shawn
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Be a PS3 game guru.
> Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at
Yahoo! Games.
> http://videogames.yahoo.com/platform?platform=120121
>
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2007 11:20:37 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: ATTENTION! ATTENTION! The Manuals have arrived!..........For the most part!
Okay! To Shawn, Lawrence, Charles, and the rest of the gang. The PDF
files of the manuals are now posted, except that the Technical
Reference manual could not be put up completely because I ran out of
space in the files section.
To the Moderators (Shawn, Charles), I apologize for usurping all the
rest of the space alloted for the files section, but I didn't know
Yahoo had that limit there.
You will see that the following manuals have been put up as whole
documents:
GRIDCASE 1500 Field Diagnostics
GRIDCASE 1500 Disassembly_Reassembly Instructions
GRIDCASE 1500 No Boot Procedure
The following document is 7 MB in size, 60 pages, and is posted in
two parts as the individual file size limit that Yahoo restrict us to
posting is 5 Mb:
GRIDCASE 1500 Series Hardware Service Course Student Guide
The following document is 12 MB in size, 121 pages, and is posted in
three parts:
GRIDCASE 1500 Series Hardware Service Course
The following document is 32 MB in size, 181 pages, and comes in
seven parts:
GRIDCASE 1535 EXP Owner's Manual
However, this is where I ran out of space in the files section. This
last document is by far the largest. It is 132 MB, 358 pages, and
comes in 28 sections due to the individual file size limit of 5 MB:
GRIDCASE 1500 Series Technical Reference Manual
I could only post the first 10 sections of it. There is no more space
to post.
I would like to recommend to the moderators that they create a
special section of the forum for these particular documents since
they are the actual repair guides and technical manuals for the
computers. At the least, could we get more space alloted to the forum
for the files section so that I can post the rest of the technical
manual sections.
I would also recommend that once you downlaod the sections of the
manuals you wish to have that you use Adobe Acrobat (if you have the
full version) or some other PDF document handling program to combine
the sections into the single documents as they were meant to be.
Otherwise, I suppose I could just burn some CD's and send them out.
Anyway, to the forum, HAPPY EASTER (or Passover, or whatever)! and
enjoy the manna from heaven! :D:D:D
Phil
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2007 07:16:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] ATTENTION! ATTENTION! The Manuals have arrived!..........For the most part!
Wow! Thanks a lot Phil!!
I can host the documents on my ftp server.
Thanks a lot for all of the scanning work!
-Shawn
--- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
> Okay! To Shawn, Lawrence, Charles, and the rest of
> the gang. The PDF
> files of the manuals are now posted, except that the
> Technical
> Reference manual could not be put up completely
> because I ran out of
> space in the files section.
>
> To the Moderators (Shawn, Charles), I apologize for
> usurping all the
> rest of the space alloted for the files section, but
> I didn't know
> Yahoo had that limit there.
>
> You will see that the following manuals have been
> put up as whole
> documents:
>
> GRIDCASE 1500 Field Diagnostics
> GRIDCASE 1500 Disassembly_Reassembly Instructions
> GRIDCASE 1500 No Boot Procedure
>
> The following document is 7 MB in size, 60 pages,
> and is posted in
> two parts as the individual file size limit that
> Yahoo restrict us to
> posting is 5 Mb:
>
> GRIDCASE 1500 Series Hardware Service Course Student
> Guide
>
> The following document is 12 MB in size, 121 pages,
> and is posted in
> three parts:
>
> GRIDCASE 1500 Series Hardware Service Course
>
> The following document is 32 MB in size, 181 pages,
> and comes in
> seven parts:
>
> GRIDCASE 1535 EXP Owner's Manual
>
> However, this is where I ran out of space in the
> files section. This
> last document is by far the largest. It is 132 MB,
> 358 pages, and
> comes in 28 sections due to the individual file size
> limit of 5 MB:
>
> GRIDCASE 1500 Series Technical Reference Manual
>
> I could only post the first 10 sections of it. There
> is no more space
> to post.
>
> I would like to recommend to the moderators that
> they create a
> special section of the forum for these particular
> documents since
> they are the actual repair guides and technical
> manuals for the
> computers. At the least, could we get more space
> alloted to the forum
> for the files section so that I can post the rest of
> the technical
> manual sections.
>
> I would also recommend that once you downlaod the
> sections of the
> manuals you wish to have that you use Adobe Acrobat
> (if you have the
> full version) or some other PDF document handling
> program to combine
> the sections into the single documents as they were
> meant to be.
> Otherwise, I suppose I could just burn some CD's and
> send them out.
>
> Anyway, to the forum, HAPPY EASTER (or Passover, or
> whatever)! and
> enjoy the manna from heaven! :D:D:D
>
> Phil
>
>
>
>
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Need Mail bonding?
Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2007 11:19:49 -0400
From: Michael Alwan
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] ATTENTION! ATTENTION! The Manuals have arrived!..........For the most part!
Phil:
Fantastic, thank you!
Do you have a ZIP program? If you compress these PDFs, you might take up
less space.
Not that you need to spend any more time on this; in fact, once I have
the PDFs, I'll compress them myself. Then we could swap PDFs for ZIP
files maybe.
Mike
jeriddian wrote:
>
>
> Okay! To Shawn, Lawrence, Charles, and the rest of the gang. The PDF
> files of the manuals are now posted, except that the Technical
> Reference manual could not be put up completely because I ran out of
> space in the files section.
>
> To the Moderators (Shawn, Charles), I apologize for usurping all the
> rest of the space alloted for the files section, but I didn't know
> Yahoo had that limit there.
>
> You will see that the following manuals have been put up as whole
> documents:
>
> GRIDCASE 1500 Field Diagnostics
> GRIDCASE 1500 Disassembly_Reassembly Instructions
> GRIDCASE 1500 No Boot Procedure
>
> The following document is 7 MB in size, 60 pages, and is posted in
> two parts as the individual file size limit that Yahoo restrict us to
> posting is 5 Mb:
>
> GRIDCASE 1500 Series Hardware Service Course Student Guide
>
> The following document is 12 MB in size, 121 pages, and is posted in
> three parts:
>
> GRIDCASE 1500 Series Hardware Service Course
>
> The following document is 32 MB in size, 181 pages, and comes in
> seven parts:
>
> GRIDCASE 1535 EXP Owner's Manual
>
> However, this is where I ran out of space in the files section. This
> last document is by far the largest. It is 132 MB, 358 pages, and
> comes in 28 sections due to the individual file size limit of 5 MB:
>
> GRIDCASE 1500 Series Technical Reference Manual
>
> I could only post the first 10 sections of it. There is no more space
> to post.
>
> I would like to recommend to the moderators that they create a
> special section of the forum for these particular documents since
> they are the actual repair guides and technical manuals for the
> computers. At the least, could we get more space alloted to the forum
> for the files section so that I can post the rest of the technical
> manual sections.
>
> I would also recommend that once you downlaod the sections of the
> manuals you wish to have that you use Adobe Acrobat (if you have the
> full version) or some other PDF document handling program to combine
> the sections into the single documents as they were meant to be.
> Otherwise, I suppose I could just burn some CD's and send them out.
>
> Anyway, to the forum, HAPPY EASTER (or Passover, or whatever)! and
> enjoy the manna from heaven! :D:D:D
>
> Phil
>
>
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2007 13:39:22 -0300
From: "Celso MF"
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] ATTENTION! ATTENTION! The Manuals have arrived!..........For the most part!
text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
[ Attachment content not displayed ]
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2007 17:14:01 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: ATTENTION! ATTENTION! The Manuals have arrived!..........For the most part!
Shawn,
How do I get the rest of the files to you for your FTP server?
Michael Alwin suggested compresing the files and I tried that, but it
only compresses the files an average of about 10%, so that's not
going to be very effective.
Of course, I would just as soon send you the whole file so that
it doesn't have to be reassembled, but whatever works is fine.
How can we do this? :)
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@...m, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> Wow! Thanks a lot Phil!!
>
> I can host the documents on my ftp server.
>
> Thanks a lot for all of the scanning work!
> -Shawn
>
> --- jeriddian <FelipeGPorresMD@...> wrote:
>
> > Okay! To Shawn, Lawrence, Charles, and the rest of
> > the gang. The PDF
> > files of the manuals are now posted, except that the
> > Technical
> > Reference manual could not be put up completely
> > because I ran out of
> > space in the files section.
> >
> > To the Moderators (Shawn, Charles), I apologize for
> > usurping all the
> > rest of the space alloted for the files section, but
> > I didn't know
> > Yahoo had that limit there.
> >
> > You will see that the following manuals have been
> > put up as whole
> > documents:
> >
> > GRIDCASE 1500 Field Diagnostics
> > GRIDCASE 1500 Disassembly_Reassembly Instructions
> > GRIDCASE 1500 No Boot Procedure
> >
> > The following document is 7 MB in size, 60 pages,
> > and is posted in
> > two parts as the individual file size limit that
> > Yahoo restrict us to
> > posting is 5 Mb:
> >
> > GRIDCASE 1500 Series Hardware Service Course Student
> > Guide
> >
> > The following document is 12 MB in size, 121 pages,
> > and is posted in
> > three parts:
> >
> > GRIDCASE 1500 Series Hardware Service Course
> >
> > The following document is 32 MB in size, 181 pages,
> > and comes in
> > seven parts:
> >
> > GRIDCASE 1535 EXP Owner's Manual
> >
> > However, this is where I ran out of space in the
> > files section. This
> > last document is by far the largest. It is 132 MB,
> > 358 pages, and
> > comes in 28 sections due to the individual file size
> > limit of 5 MB:
> >
> > GRIDCASE 1500 Series Technical Reference Manual
> >
> > I could only post the first 10 sections of it. There
> > is no more space
> > to post.
> >
> > I would like to recommend to the moderators that
> > they create a
> > special section of the forum for these particular
> > documents since
> > they are the actual repair guides and technical
> > manuals for the
> > computers. At the least, could we get more space
> > alloted to the forum
> > for the files section so that I can post the rest of
> > the technical
> > manual sections.
> >
> > I would also recommend that once you downlaod the
> > sections of the
> > manuals you wish to have that you use Adobe Acrobat
> > (if you have the
> > full version) or some other PDF document handling
> > program to combine
> > the sections into the single documents as they were
> > meant to be.
> > Otherwise, I suppose I could just burn some CD's and
> > send them out.
> >
> > Anyway, to the forum, HAPPY EASTER (or Passover, or
> > whatever)! and
> > enjoy the manna from heaven! :D:D:D
> >
> > Phil
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> > mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Need Mail bonding?
> Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
> http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091
>
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2007 20:04:30 -0000
From: "androgenoide"
Subject: Re: ATTENTION! ATTENTION! The Manuals have arrived!..........For the most part!
Compression sounded like a good idea but Winzip only compressed a
3.6Mb file to 2.96Mb...could probably get better compression using
another zip utility but not good enough to cram in another 132MB.
Hosting on another site would probably work best but a stopgap
measure might be to open another yahoo group just for files...it
would give another 100MB. (note that this is a new limit...just a
few months ago their limit was 10Mb)
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Michael Alwan <mjalwan@...>
wrote:
>
> Phil:
>
> Fantastic, thank you!
>
> Do you have a ZIP program? If you compress these PDFs, you might
take up
> less space.
>
> Not that you need to spend any more time on this; in fact, once I
have
> the PDFs, I'll compress them myself. Then we could swap PDFs for
ZIP
> files maybe.
>
> Mike
>
> jeriddian wrote:
> >
> >
> > Okay! To Shawn, Lawrence, Charles, and the rest of the gang. The
PDF
> > files of the manuals are now posted, except that the Technical
> > Reference manual could not be put up completely because I ran out
of
> > space in the files section.
> >
> > To the Moderators (Shawn, Charles), I apologize for usurping all
the
> > rest of the space alloted for the files section, but I didn't know
> > Yahoo had that limit there.
> >
> > You will see that the following manuals have been put up as whole
> > documents:
> >
> > GRIDCASE 1500 Field Diagnostics
> > GRIDCASE 1500 Disassembly_Reassembly Instructions
> > GRIDCASE 1500 No Boot Procedure
> >
> > The following document is 7 MB in size, 60 pages, and is posted in
> > two parts as the individual file size limit that Yahoo restrict
us to
> > posting is 5 Mb:
> >
> > GRIDCASE 1500 Series Hardware Service Course Student Guide
> >
> > The following document is 12 MB in size, 121 pages, and is posted
in
> > three parts:
> >
> > GRIDCASE 1500 Series Hardware Service Course
> >
> > The following document is 32 MB in size, 181 pages, and comes in
> > seven parts:
> >
> > GRIDCASE 1535 EXP Owner's Manual
> >
> > However, this is where I ran out of space in the files section.
This
> > last document is by far the largest. It is 132 MB, 358 pages, and
> > comes in 28 sections due to the individual file size limit of 5
MB:
> >
> > GRIDCASE 1500 Series Technical Reference Manual
> >
> > I could only post the first 10 sections of it. There is no more
space
> > to post.
> >
> > I would like to recommend to the moderators that they create a
> > special section of the forum for these particular documents since
> > they are the actual repair guides and technical manuals for the
> > computers. At the least, could we get more space alloted to the
forum
> > for the files section so that I can post the rest of the technical
> > manual sections.
> >
> > I would also recommend that once you downlaod the sections of the
> > manuals you wish to have that you use Adobe Acrobat (if you have
the
> > full version) or some other PDF document handling program to
combine
> > the sections into the single documents as they were meant to be.
> > Otherwise, I suppose I could just burn some CD's and send them
out.
> >
> > Anyway, to the forum, HAPPY EASTER (or Passover, or whatever)! and
> > enjoy the manna from heaven! :D:D:D
> >
> > Phil
> >
> >
>
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2007 16:18:12 -0400
From: Michael Alwan
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: ATTENTION! ATTENTION! The Manuals have arrived!..........For the most part!
There's one other thing to try with PDFs: from the file menu you can
choose "Reduce File Size" and resave; or from the "Advanced" menu choose
"PDF Optimizer." Both will decrease the DPI of scanned images, and strip
out other unnecessary code.
It's best to save as a different file name, so you can check that images
were not being degraded so much as to be unreadable. If "Reduce File
Size" is too drastic, one can fiddle with the Optimizer settings.
You might have tried all this before. (I live in Acrobat, begin in the
publishing industry.)
Hope that helps.
Mike
jeriddian wrote:
>
>
> Shawn,
> How do I get the rest of the files to you for your FTP server?
> Michael Alwin suggested compresing the files and I tried that, but it
> only compresses the files an average of about 10%, so that's not
> going to be very effective.
>
>
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2007 23:24:34 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: ATTENTION! ATTENTION! The Manuals have arrived!..........For the most part!
Thanks for the suggestions, guys.
I don't want to decrease the PDI of the scan because some of the
print is hard enough to read, which is why I didn't want to do that.
However, I've already solved the problem in that I have uploaded
all of the files to Shawn's server. So he has them all now. I'm sure
he will let you know the information needed to contact his server and
download the files. What I'm going to do is delete the partially
listed tech reference files so that there is room left in the files
section for other people to be able to upload other files. I'll leave
the rest of the files up for now, though eventually I may need to
take them down and after that, all accessing for those files will be
done through Shawn's server, if that is okay with him.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Michael Alwan <mjalwan@...>
wrote:
>
> There's one other thing to try with PDFs: from the file menu you
can
> choose "Reduce File Size" and resave; or from the "Advanced" menu
choose
> "PDF Optimizer." Both will decrease the DPI of scanned images, and
strip
> out other unnecessary code.
>
> It's best to save as a different file name, so you can check that
images
> were not being degraded so much as to be unreadable. If "Reduce
File
> Size" is too drastic, one can fiddle with the Optimizer settings.
>
> You might have tried all this before. (I live in Acrobat, begin in
the
> publishing industry.)
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Mike
>
> jeriddian wrote:
> >
> >
> > Shawn,
> > How do I get the rest of the files to you for your FTP server?
> > Michael Alwin suggested compresing the files and I tried that,
but it
> > only compresses the files an average of about 10%, so that's not
> > going to be very effective.
> >
> >
>
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2007 23:35:31 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: ATTENTION! ATTENTION! The Manuals have arrived!..........For the most part!
Hi again, guys,
Just to let everybody know for sure. All of the manuals are still
in the file section EXCEPT for the Technical Reference Manual. That
one is the biggie. (It has everything in it.) Just to let you know,
Mike, I did try zipping the files but as was mentioned, it only took
the file size down by a measily 10%, so that didn't work either.
Now when you get around to accessing Shawn's server, you won't
have to download the separate parts. You can download the entire file
all at one time, and you won't have to worry about joining them all
back together again.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Michael Alwan <mjalwan@...>
wrote:
>
> There's one other thing to try with PDFs: from the file menu you
can
> choose "Reduce File Size" and resave; or from the "Advanced" menu
choose
> "PDF Optimizer." Both will decrease the DPI of scanned images, and
strip
> out other unnecessary code.
>
> It's best to save as a different file name, so you can check that
images
> were not being degraded so much as to be unreadable. If "Reduce
File
> Size" is too drastic, one can fiddle with the Optimizer settings.
>
> You might have tried all this before. (I live in Acrobat, begin in
the
> publishing industry.)
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Mike
>
> jeriddian wrote:
> >
> >
> > Shawn,
> > How do I get the rest of the files to you for your FTP server?
> > Michael Alwin suggested compresing the files and I tried that,
but it
> > only compresses the files an average of about 10%, so that's not
> > going to be very effective.
> >
> >
>
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2007 20:05:40 -0400
From: Michael Alwan
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: ATTENTION! ATTENTION! The Manuals have arrived!..........For the most part!
Phil:
Thanks again. You've done us a great service!
Mike
jeriddian wrote:
>
>
> Hi again, guys,
>
> Just to let everybody know for sure. All of the manuals are still
> in the file section EXCEPT for the Technical Reference Manual. That
> one is the biggie. (It has everything in it.) Just to let you know,
> Mike, I did try zipping the files but as was mentioned, it only took
> the file size down by a measily 10%, so that didn't work either.
>
> Now when you get around to accessing Shawn's server, you won't
> have to download the separate parts. You can download the entire file
> all at one time, and you won't have to worry about joining them all
> back together again.
>
> Phil
>
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2007 03:10:06 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Time of Day Password again.
Sorry, guys,
I know this has been discussed elsewhere, but I can't find the
thread. I just obtained a 1520 for myself. The RTC was dead. It had
only one Mb RAM and just the 20 MB hard drive. Long story short, I
replaced the RTC with a 12887A, upped the RAM to 4 MB (I was able to
score some sticks), and replaced the hard drive with a 170 MB HDD,
burning the new BIOS chips accordingly. Now when I fire it up, I
getting to the point where it says the time of day clock is stopped and
then to press F1, which of course gets to a line which wants me to give
the unit a password before it will finish booting.
I know this has been discussed before, but could someone tell me how to
get past this or direct me to the right thread?
Thanks.
Phil
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2007 03:19:05 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: ATTENTION! ATTENTION! The Manuals have arrived!..........For the most part!
More than happy to assist the forum, guys. At least this way, none of
us have to wander in the dark anymore with these great old
computers. :D:D:D
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Michael Alwan <mjalwan@...>
wrote:
>
> Phil:
>
> Thanks again. You've done us a great service!
>
> Mike
>
> jeriddian wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi again, guys,
> >
> > Just to let everybody know for sure. All of the manuals are still
> > in the file section EXCEPT for the Technical Reference Manual.
That
> > one is the biggie. (It has everything in it.) Just to let you
know,
> > Mike, I did try zipping the files but as was mentioned, it only
took
> > the file size down by a measily 10%, so that didn't work either.
> >
> > Now when you get around to accessing Shawn's server, you won't
> > have to download the separate parts. You can download the entire
file
> > all at one time, and you won't have to worry about joining them
all
> > back together again.
> >
> > Phil
> >
>
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2007 09:12:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: GRiD 1500 Technical Manuals
All,
Thanks to Jerridan (Phil), he has taken the time to
scan and uploaded the manuals to my server.
The total size of all of the documents is about 345
MB.
My server does not run the standard ftp service. The
server runs vsftp (Very Secure File Transfer Protocol
- the word "secure" is a relative term). Anyway, if
you are running Windows, you need to download and
install a sftp client. Here are 3:
winscp3: http://winscp.net/eng/index.php
PuTTY:
http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/download.html
and Tunnelier: http://www.bitvise.com/tunnelier
WinSCP3 is probably the easiest to use and get going.
Once they are installed, you want to connect to my
server with the following parameters:
Name: griduser
Password: griduser
Server: shawnerz@...
Port: 22
Once you connect, you should be able copy the files.
Let me know if you have any problems.
-Shawn
____________________________________________________________________________________
Need Mail bonding?
Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2007 17:26:36 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: GRiD 1500 Technical Manuals
To all,
My appreciation to all for your kind words. When you access
Shawn's server, you will find seven complete files as I have
indicated before in my previous emails. If for some reason you need
to download the files in smaller segments, there is a folder that is
labeled "files in 5 MB parts" which is where I have the four larger
manuals copied in small 5 MB file sections. However I doubt you will
need to do that since that was done purely to get the files onto the
Yahoo website, and that is no longer needed. So just download the
complete files from the "grid" folder
Because of the duplication of the files in parts and as a whole,
the actual space taken up by all seven complete files is about 183 MB
in the form of pdf files. With the addition of those 5MB partitions,
it came to about 345 MB.
I recommend the WINSCP3 program as it is free and worked
perfectly for me.
I will leave the first six files up on the website for now for
those of you who want to download it that way, but it is far easier
to download it off of Shawn's server since that way you don't have to
download partitioned files and have to rejoin them on your own
computer. Eventually, I will take those files off of the file section
from the web site so that space is freed up for people to be able to
post other important files.
Thanks for your support.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> All,
> Thanks to Jerridan (Phil), he has taken the time to
> scan and uploaded the manuals to my server.
> The total size of all of the documents is about 345
> MB.
>
> My server does not run the standard ftp service. The
> server runs vsftp (Very Secure File Transfer Protocol
> - the word "secure" is a relative term). Anyway, if
> you are running Windows, you need to download and
> install a sftp client. Here are 3:
> winscp3: http://winscp.net/eng/index.php
> PuTTY:
> http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/download.html
> and Tunnelier: http://www.bitvise.com/tunnelier
>
> WinSCP3 is probably the easiest to use and get going.
>
> Once they are installed, you want to connect to my
> server with the following parameters:
> Name: griduser
> Password: griduser
> Server: shawnerz@...
> Port: 22
>
> Once you connect, you should be able copy the files.
> Let me know if you have any problems.
>
> -Shawn
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Need Mail bonding?
> Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
> http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091
>
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2007 17:30:51 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: sipps
I have found it extremely difficult to find the sipps, however for lack
of them, you can still find the 30 pin SIMMs more easily. Shawn has
already posted a thread where you can convert the SIMMs to SIPPs simply
by soldering on the pins. I know that's a bit of work, but that may be
the only option you may have, since the SIPPs are now really become as
rare as chicken's teeth.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "Dave" <wd8cyv@...> wrote:
>
> if someone does come up with a place to buy them
> email me i would like some as i use a 1520 in the work shop
> with a win 3.1 card file program of MC parts and would like to be able
> to run a pdf viewer but memory is the main problem
> running dos 6 plus x.22 goodies and win 3.1
> also any one that can do the bigger hard drive conversion
> some where i have a 420 that fits that way i can preload the pdf files
> and use it to work on my old bikes
> ar dave
> wd8cyv(at)yahoo.com put grig computers in subject line so trash
> filter does not dump you
> i also have a 1755 that ran the last time i fired it up
>
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2007 11:28:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: sipps
All,
I was hoping no one would remember that thread. :(
I had three problems that prevented my SIMMs from
being used: height, length, and weak pins.
My SIMMs are too tall. The top of the SIMM comes in
contact with the top cover.
The SIMM was too long. The SIMM extended into the
area for the video card.
Lastly the pins from the DIP socket that I used were
not rigid enough. I would try to push the pins into
the hole, but the pins would bend.
Maybe some one has a better idea.
Thanks,
-Shawn
--- jeriddian <Jeriddian@...> wrote:
> I have found it extremely difficult to find the
> sipps, however for lack
> of them, you can still find the 30 pin SIMMs more
> easily. Shawn has
> already posted a thread where you can convert the
> SIMMs to SIPPs simply
> by soldering on the pins. I know that's a bit of
> work, but that may be
> the only option you may have, since the SIPPs are
> now really become as
> rare as chicken's teeth.
>
> Phil
>
>
>
> --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "Dave"
> <wd8cyv@...> wrote:
> >
> > if someone does come up with a place to buy them
> > email me i would like some as i use a 1520 in the
> work shop
> > with a win 3.1 card file program of MC parts and
> would like to be able
> > to run a pdf viewer but memory is the main problem
>
> > running dos 6 plus x.22 goodies and win 3.1
> > also any one that can do the bigger hard drive
> conversion
> > some where i have a 420 that fits that way i can
> preload the pdf files
> > and use it to work on my old bikes
> > ar dave
> > wd8cyv(at)yahoo.com put grig computers in subject
> line so trash
> > filter does not dump you
> > i also have a 1755 that ran the last time i fired
> it up
> >
>
>
>
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2007 18:37:45 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: sipps
oops....sorry about that. I should have read your post more closely.
I guess the catch is to make sure the SIMMS are the right size, if
you can find them.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> All,
> I was hoping no one would remember that thread. :(
>
> I had three problems that prevented my SIMMs from
> being used: height, length, and weak pins.
> My SIMMs are too tall. The top of the SIMM comes in
> contact with the top cover.
> The SIMM was too long. The SIMM extended into the
> area for the video card.
> Lastly the pins from the DIP socket that I used were
> not rigid enough. I would try to push the pins into
> the hole, but the pins would bend.
> Maybe some one has a better idea.
> Thanks,
> -Shawn
>
> --- jeriddian <Jeriddian@...> wrote:
>
> > I have found it extremely difficult to find the
> > sipps, however for lack
> > of them, you can still find the 30 pin SIMMs more
> > easily. Shawn has
> > already posted a thread where you can convert the
> > SIMMs to SIPPs simply
> > by soldering on the pins. I know that's a bit of
> > work, but that may be
> > the only option you may have, since the SIPPs are
> > now really become as
> > rare as chicken's teeth.
> >
> > Phil
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "Dave"
> > <wd8cyv@> wrote:
> > >
> > > if someone does come up with a place to buy them
> > > email me i would like some as i use a 1520 in the
> > work shop
> > > with a win 3.1 card file program of MC parts and
> > would like to be able
> > > to run a pdf viewer but memory is the main problem
> >
> > > running dos 6 plus x.22 goodies and win 3.1
> > > also any one that can do the bigger hard drive
> > conversion
> > > some where i have a 420 that fits that way i can
> > preload the pdf files
> > > and use it to work on my old bikes
> > > ar dave
> > > wd8cyv(at)yahoo.com put grig computers in subject
> > line so trash
> > > filter does not dump you
> > > i also have a 1755 that ran the last time i fired
> > it up
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> > mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Don't pick lemons.
> See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
> http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html
>
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2007 18:37:09 -0000
From: "androgenoide"
Subject: Re: GRiD 1500 Technical Manuals
There is one little bitty problem. Yahoo treats your server address
as an email address and hides everything after the "@" symbol...
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> All,
> Thanks to Jerridan (Phil), he has taken the time to
> scan and uploaded the manuals to my server.
> The total size of all of the documents is about 345
> MB.
>
> My server does not run the standard ftp service. The
> server runs vsftp (Very Secure File Transfer Protocol
> - the word "secure" is a relative term). Anyway, if
> you are running Windows, you need to download and
> install a sftp client. Here are 3:
> winscp3: http://winscp.net/eng/index.php
> PuTTY:
> http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/download.html
> and Tunnelier: http://www.bitvise.com/tunnelier
>
> WinSCP3 is probably the easiest to use and get going.
>
> Once they are installed, you want to connect to my
> server with the following parameters:
> Name: griduser
> Password: griduser
> Server: shawnerz@...
> Port: 22
>
> Once you connect, you should be able copy the files.
> Let me know if you have any problems.
>
> -Shawn
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Need Mail bonding?
> Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
> http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091
>
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2007 12:34:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: GRiD 1500 Technical Manuals
That's funny. It shouldn't have been an email
address.
It is shawnerz.homelinux.org
Sometimes I don't pay attention and put the 'at' sign
by mistake.
Just in case I typed it correctly, let me try it this
way: shawnerz. homelinux. org
Just take out the spaces.
-Shawn
--- androgenoide <androgenoide@...> wrote:
> There is one little bitty problem. Yahoo treats
> your server address
> as an email address and hides everything after the
> "@" symbol...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz
> <shawnerz@...> wrote:
> >
> > All,
> > Thanks to Jerridan (Phil), he has taken the time
> to
> > scan and uploaded the manuals to my server.
> > The total size of all of the documents is about
> 345
> > MB.
> >
> > My server does not run the standard ftp service.
> The
> > server runs vsftp (Very Secure File Transfer
> Protocol
> > - the word "secure" is a relative term). Anyway,
> if
> > you are running Windows, you need to download and
> > install a sftp client. Here are 3:
> > winscp3: http://winscp.net/eng/index.php
> > PuTTY:
> >
>
http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/download.html
> > and Tunnelier: http://www.bitvise.com/tunnelier
> >
> > WinSCP3 is probably the easiest to use and get
> going.
> >
> > Once they are installed, you want to connect to my
> > server with the following parameters:
> > Name: griduser
> > Password: griduser
> > Server: shawnerz@...
> > Port: 22
> >
> > Once you connect, you should be able copy the
> files.
> > Let me know if you have any problems.
> >
> > -Shawn
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> ______________
> > Need Mail bonding?
> > Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from
> Yahoo! Answers users.
> >
>
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091
> >
>
>
>
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
http://tv.yahoo.com/
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2007 20:06:46 -0000
From: "androgenoide"
Subject: Re: GRiD 1500 Technical Manuals
Excellent. That works fine, thank you. James
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> That's funny. It shouldn't have been an email
> address.
> It is shawnerz.homelinux.org
> Sometimes I don't pay attention and put the 'at' sign
> by mistake.
> Just in case I typed it correctly, let me try it this
> way: shawnerz. homelinux. org
>
> Just take out the spaces.
> -Shawn
>
> --- androgenoide <androgenoide@...> wrote:
>
> > There is one little bitty problem. Yahoo treats
> > your server address
> > as an email address and hides everything after the
> > "@" symbol...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz
> > <shawnerz@> wrote:
> > >
> > > All,
> > > Thanks to Jerridan (Phil), he has taken the time
> > to
> > > scan and uploaded the manuals to my server.
> > > The total size of all of the documents is about
> > 345
> > > MB.
> > >
> > > My server does not run the standard ftp service.
> > The
> > > server runs vsftp (Very Secure File Transfer
> > Protocol
> > > - the word "secure" is a relative term). Anyway,
> > if
> > > you are running Windows, you need to download and
> > > install a sftp client. Here are 3:
> > > winscp3: http://winscp.net/eng/index.php
> > > PuTTY:
> > >
> >
> http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/download.html
> > > and Tunnelier: http://www.bitvise.com/tunnelier
> > >
> > > WinSCP3 is probably the easiest to use and get
> > going.
> > >
> > > Once they are installed, you want to connect to my
> > > server with the following parameters:
> > > Name: griduser
> > > Password: griduser
> > > Server: shawnerz@
> > > Port: 22
> > >
> > > Once you connect, you should be able copy the
> > files.
> > > Let me know if you have any problems.
> > >
> > > -Shawn
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> > ______________
> > > Need Mail bonding?
> > > Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from
> > Yahoo! Answers users.
> > >
> >
> http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396546091
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> > mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> TV dinner still cooling?
> Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
> http://tv.yahoo.com/
>
Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2007 16:30:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: Lawrence Walker
Subject: Re: ATTENTION! ATTENTION! The Manuals have arrived!..........For the
Thanks again Phil, AND Shawn !
One possible solution with the files section size
limitation is creating a second group called "Grid
1500 files".
This is used by another group "atari midi" which I am
a member of. That takes the heat off the primary site,
which could only have essential files or programs as
determined by the moderator.
The files upload site would contain lesser files.
Even longer files or programs can be hosted by an
external server site, in Atari Midi's case, Tim
Carmody's Atari midi site or in our case, if Shawn is
willing, his server. Anyone willing to take up the
task could also establish a mirror.
A surplus of space could even make me aspire (even
from shame)to emulate Phil's and Shawns efforts and
upload the SCSI adaptor manual or other stuff. mea
culpa, mea culpa. I think many kudos also has to go to
Mike Brietman for having helped to enliven this forum.
Lawrence
__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2007 09:17:36 -0600
From: Michael Brutman
Subject: The Manuals have arrived!
I don't know if this has been suggested already, but maybe you should
look at 'bitsavers.org' for the long term storage of the pdf documents.
Mike
Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2007 09:25:57 -0600
From: Michael Brutman
Subject: The Manuals have arrived!
On second thought, bitsavers.org might not be the right place .. it has
a heavy orientation to minis and mainframes.
Scratch that idea ...
Mike
Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2007 15:55:51 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Time of Day Password again.
Hi again, guys,
I've done some preliminary investigation on this problem with
the. It appears that replacing the RTC chip on the 1520 is
problematic if the RTC is not first initialized. When that happens,
the computer sees it as having "stopped" (i.e. the message "Time of
day has stopped"), the BIOS then prompts you to press F1 and then
enter the BIOS password. The problem is there is no documentation as
to what the password is.
This is an old phoenix BIOS, of course, and they have several
backdoor passwords
including "phoenix", "PHOENIX", "CMOS", "cmos", "BIOS", and "BIOS".
I've tried those as well
as "GRiD", "grid", "GRID", "gridcase", "GRDICASE", "GRiDCASE",
and "Gridcase". None of them worked however, and I'm wondering if the
BIOS even provides a password matching routine to allow a correct
answer. The problem then results in the machine simply rebooting when
an incorrect response is given, and then you simply run into the same
problem again. For some reason, the BIOS on the 1530 didn't give me
this problem when I replaced the Dallas RTC on it. It booted right
back up again very nicely, probably because they had seen that
problem and corrected it by then, but never bothered to go back and
fix it for the 1520.
Some others on the web have had the same problem and the
consensus has always been there is no choice but to take out the
Dallas chip and replace it. But then you still have the same problem.
On some 1520's that didn't have the Dallas chip, but with the other
timer chip and where the battery is separate, one person was able to
leave the battery out for about a week, allowing the time keeping
registers of the RTC chip to finally go dead after the capacitors
lost their residual charge. Then he was able to put the battery back
in and the time chip was able to initialize and the machine booted
properly. But because you can't disconnect the battery from the
Dallas RTC (unless you do the German modification that Shawn found),
that's not a option. I'm still considering doing the German
modification thing (externalizing the battery), but I was also
wondering about the following.
Has anybody considered reverse engineering the BIOS a little? It
doesn't sound too hard to be able to add a small routine that would
initialize the RTC upon boot if it was found to be stopped,
(especially since they seemed to have fixed that in the 1530 BIOS).
Now it's been a long time since I messed with Assembly Language, and
I remember precious little of it, so I have a lot of studying to do
(again), but I was able to get a Disassembler and break the BIN file
back down to an .ASM file. Now I have to study it and parse out where
this whole routine concerning the clock gets in there. If I can
pinpoint it, then there is one of two things I can do. I can either
try to write a routine that will initialize the clock when it has
stopped, or I can find out if there is indeed a password to which the
BIOS will even compare an answer, in order to accept it and then boot
up. I still have my old programs and books on MASM 5.1, so since this
is a very small modification, I'm hoping it won't be too much trouble.
Anyway, does anyone have any thoughts or comments on achieving
any of this, or helping out? Thanks for the input.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "jeriddian" <Jeriddian@...>
wrote:
>
> Sorry, guys,
> I know this has been discussed elsewhere, but I can't find the
> thread. I just obtained a 1520 for myself. The RTC was dead. It had
> only one Mb RAM and just the 20 MB hard drive. Long story short, I
> replaced the RTC with a 12887A, upped the RAM to 4 MB (I was able
to
> score some sticks), and replaced the hard drive with a 170 MB HDD,
> burning the new BIOS chips accordingly. Now when I fire it up, I
> getting to the point where it says the time of day clock is stopped
and
> then to press F1, which of course gets to a line which wants me to
give
> the unit a password before it will finish booting.
>
> I know this has been discussed before, but could someone tell me
how to
> get past this or direct me to the right thread?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Phil
>
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2007 18:54:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: Time of Day Password again.
Sorry, Phil.
That's above my skill level. I know about -> <- that
much of assembly.
-Shawn
--- jeriddian <Jeriddian@...> wrote:
> Hi again, guys,
>
> I've done some preliminary investigation on
> this problem with
> the. It appears that replacing the RTC chip on the
> 1520 is
> problematic if the RTC is not first initialized.
> When that happens,
> the computer sees it as having "stopped" (i.e. the
> message "Time of
> day has stopped"), the BIOS then prompts you to
> press F1 and then
> enter the BIOS password. The problem is there is no
> documentation as
> to what the password is.
>
> This is an old phoenix BIOS, of course, and
> they have several
> backdoor passwords
> including "phoenix", "PHOENIX", "CMOS", "cmos",
> "BIOS", and "BIOS".
> I've tried those as well
> as "GRiD", "grid", "GRID", "gridcase", "GRDICASE",
> "GRiDCASE",
> and "Gridcase". None of them worked however, and I'm
> wondering if the
> BIOS even provides a password matching routine to
> allow a correct
> answer. The problem then results in the machine
> simply rebooting when
> an incorrect response is given, and then you simply
> run into the same
> problem again. For some reason, the BIOS on the 1530
> didn't give me
> this problem when I replaced the Dallas RTC on it.
> It booted right
> back up again very nicely, probably because they had
> seen that
> problem and corrected it by then, but never bothered
> to go back and
> fix it for the 1520.
>
> Some others on the web have had the same
> problem and the
> consensus has always been there is no choice but to
> take out the
> Dallas chip and replace it. But then you still have
> the same problem.
> On some 1520's that didn't have the Dallas chip, but
> with the other
> timer chip and where the battery is separate, one
> person was able to
> leave the battery out for about a week, allowing the
> time keeping
> registers of the RTC chip to finally go dead after
> the capacitors
> lost their residual charge. Then he was able to put
> the battery back
> in and the time chip was able to initialize and the
> machine booted
> properly. But because you can't disconnect the
> battery from the
> Dallas RTC (unless you do the German modification
> that Shawn found),
> that's not a option. I'm still considering doing the
> German
> modification thing (externalizing the battery), but
> I was also
> wondering about the following.
>
> Has anybody considered reverse engineering the
> BIOS a little? It
> doesn't sound too hard to be able to add a small
> routine that would
> initialize the RTC upon boot if it was found to be
> stopped,
> (especially since they seemed to have fixed that in
> the 1530 BIOS).
> Now it's been a long time since I messed with
> Assembly Language, and
> I remember precious little of it, so I have a lot of
> studying to do
> (again), but I was able to get a Disassembler and
> break the BIN file
> back down to an .ASM file. Now I have to study it
> and parse out where
> this whole routine concerning the clock gets in
> there. If I can
> pinpoint it, then there is one of two things I can
> do. I can either
> try to write a routine that will initialize the
> clock when it has
> stopped, or I can find out if there is indeed a
> password to which the
> BIOS will even compare an answer, in order to accept
> it and then boot
> up. I still have my old programs and books on MASM
> 5.1, so since this
> is a very small modification, I'm hoping it won't be
> too much trouble.
>
> Anyway, does anyone have any thoughts or
> comments on achieving
> any of this, or helping out? Thanks for the input.
>
> Phil
>
>
> --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "jeriddian"
> <Jeriddian@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Sorry, guys,
> > I know this has been discussed elsewhere, but
> I can't find the
> > thread. I just obtained a 1520 for myself. The RTC
> was dead. It had
> > only one Mb RAM and just the 20 MB hard drive.
> Long story short, I
> > replaced the RTC with a 12887A, upped the RAM to 4
> MB (I was able
> to
> > score some sticks), and replaced the hard drive
> with a 170 MB HDD,
> > burning the new BIOS chips accordingly. Now when I
> fire it up, I
> > getting to the point where it says the time of day
> clock is stopped
> and
> > then to press F1, which of course gets to a line
> which wants me to
> give
> > the unit a password before it will finish booting.
> >
> > I know this has been discussed before, but could
> someone tell me
> how to
> > get past this or direct me to the right thread?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Phil
> >
>
>
>
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html
Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2007 20:21:23 -0000
From: "ballsandy101"
Subject: GRiDcase 1520 and a new coprocessor
Now that I have replaced the dead battery (older revision without the
dallas chip, wewt) I am back and running. I'm now looking into a
coprocessor. Anything out of the ordinary to be noted (besides the
speed of the coprocessor) or should dropping an 80287 in and
reconfiguring the system be all that's needed?
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2007 14:41:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] GRiDcase 1520 and a new coprocessor
I don't know if you need to do any system
reconfiguration. You're going in to new territory for
me.
I would think (big assumption) that all you'd have to
do is drop in the -287 and continue.
Let us all know how it works,
Thanks,
-Shawn
--- ballsandy101 <ballsandy@...> wrote:
> Now that I have replaced the dead battery (older
> revision without the
> dallas chip, wewt) I am back and running. I'm now
> looking into a
> coprocessor. Anything out of the ordinary to be
> noted (besides the
> speed of the coprocessor) or should dropping an
> 80287 in and
> reconfiguring the system be all that's needed?
>
>
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for earth-friendly autos?
Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/
Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2007 21:52:48 -0000
From: "ballsandy101"
Subject: Re: GRiDcase 1520 and a new coprocessor
:P I completely forgot this is not my IBM PC portable
In that case i'll look for the right one off ebay and cross my fingers.
Thanks.
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> I don't know if you need to do any system
> reconfiguration. You're going in to new territory for
> me.
> I would think (big assumption) that all you'd have to
> do is drop in the -287 and continue.
> Let us all know how it works,
> Thanks,
> -Shawn
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 19:36:34 -0700
From:
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Grid 1520 Booting from Compact Flash
One thing I have noticed,
Using various sized of flash on some new products (top secret ya-know)
Many times the flash will only operate in native mode. Native '0' mode for a hard drive is that state where the drive reports exactly what the physical geometry of the mechanical - - - um - - - 'drive'
Example. A CP3044 actually only has two physical heads, the rest is virtually converted on the controller board and shipped to us in pre-ATA um..... ATA fashon.
Perhaps the GRID is prefering mode 1 or mode 2 to access the more genaric vertuial geometry of the conner hardware.
---- Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
> Just thought I'd let everyone know that I'm working on
> getting my 1520 to boot from Compact Flash.
> My first attempt ended in failure.
>
> I modified my BIOS with the information from hdlook.
> With the compact flash out of its carrier, on boot up,
> I get a confusing memory error. I do not have my
> notes with me so I cannot give the exact words.
> However, it says something like "Memory Error at
> address (XXXXX, I can't remember). expected FFFF,
> received FFFF."
>
> Accroding to the message, the computer received what
> it expected, so there shouldn't be an error.
>
> The Grid continues to boot but only allows me 640K of
> memory - out of 2 meg installed.
>
> If I insert the compact flash, the computer does a
> series of beeps, and then nothing. I think the beep
> sequence is 1 beep, followed by 3 beeps, then 1 beep.
>
> The CF is a 512 MB, type 1.
> When I get some free time, I will try my 8 MB CF that
> came with my digital camera.
>
> -Shawn
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Be a PS3 game guru.
> Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games.
> http://videogames.yahoo.com/platform?platform=120121
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 20:10:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Grid 1520 Booting from Compact Flash
Did I drink too much tonight or did I get this email
already?
--- charlieford1@... wrote:
> One thing I have noticed,
>
> Using various sized of flash on some new products
> (top secret ya-know)
> Many times the flash will only operate in native
> mode. Native '0' mode for a hard drive is that
> state where the drive reports exactly what the
> physical geometry of the mechanical - - - um - - -
> 'drive'
>
> Example. A CP3044 actually only has two physical
> heads, the rest is virtually converted on the
> controller board and shipped to us in pre-ATA
> um..... ATA fashon.
>
> Perhaps the GRID is prefering mode 1 or mode 2 to
> access the more genaric vertuial geometry of the
> conner hardware.
>
>
> ---- Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
> > Just thought I'd let everyone know that I'm
> working on
> > getting my 1520 to boot from Compact Flash.
> > My first attempt ended in failure.
> >
> > I modified my BIOS with the information from
> hdlook.
> > With the compact flash out of its carrier, on boot
> up,
> > I get a confusing memory error. I do not have my
> > notes with me so I cannot give the exact words.
> > However, it says something like "Memory Error at
> > address (XXXXX, I can't remember). expected FFFF,
> > received FFFF."
> >
> > Accroding to the message, the computer received
> what
> > it expected, so there shouldn't be an error.
> >
> > The Grid continues to boot but only allows me 640K
> of
> > memory - out of 2 meg installed.
> >
> > If I insert the compact flash, the computer does a
> > series of beeps, and then nothing. I think the
> beep
> > sequence is 1 beep, followed by 3 beeps, then 1
> beep.
> >
> > The CF is a 512 MB, type 1.
> > When I get some free time, I will try my 8 MB CF
> that
> > came with my digital camera.
> >
> > -Shawn
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> > Be a PS3 game guru.
> > Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and
> previews at Yahoo! Games.
> >
> http://videogames.yahoo.com/platform?platform=120121
>
>
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rugrid-laptop/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> mailto:RuGRiD-Laptop-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Need Mail bonding?
Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
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Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 20:09:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Manuals Availible via ftp
All,
I think I have the ftp portion of my server up and
running. If you havn't downloaded the manuals because
you didn't want to install the ssh software, you can
now download the manuals in Internet Explorer
(assuming I have everything set properly).
In the address bar, enter ftp://shawnerz.homelinux.org
At the user and password prompt, enter griduser, and
griduser.
If everything is set correctly, you could see a list
of the manuals that Filipe (sp?) uploaded.
If your never connects and you get an endless
hourglass, go to Tools | Internet Options | Advanced.
Scroll down to the Browsing section and uncheck (or
check) "Use Passive FTP (for firewall or DSL modem
capaiblity)"
With it checked, IE is supposed to use passive mode
and lock itself to ports 20 and 21. However, with my
checks using Win2000, it seems to work opposite of way
I think it's supposed to work.
Please let me know if it works for you.
Thanks,
-Shawn
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.
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Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2007 04:15:49 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Manuals Availible via ftp
Actually, it's Felipe. But no big (grin). Just call me Phil. :)
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> All,
> I think I have the ftp portion of my server up and
> running. If you havn't downloaded the manuals because
> you didn't want to install the ssh software, you can
> now download the manuals in Internet Explorer
> (assuming I have everything set properly).
> In the address bar, enter ftp://shawnerz.homelinux.org
> At the user and password prompt, enter griduser, and
> griduser.
> If everything is set correctly, you could see a list
> of the manuals that Filipe (sp?) uploaded.
> If your never connects and you get an endless
> hourglass, go to Tools | Internet Options | Advanced.
> Scroll down to the Browsing section and uncheck (or
> check) "Use Passive FTP (for firewall or DSL modem
> capaiblity)"
> With it checked, IE is supposed to use passive mode
> and lock itself to ports 20 and 21. However, with my
> checks using Win2000, it seems to work opposite of way
> I think it's supposed to work.
> Please let me know if it works for you.
> Thanks,
> -Shawn
>
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________________
_______________
> It's here! Your new message!
> Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.
> http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/
>
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2007 04:26:50 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Manuals Availible via ftp
Shawn,
I tried it and couldn't get it to open. I just kept getting the
message "Cannot open server". I'm running IE 7 myself. The pasive
FTP option didn't help either. I don't know if it's IE 7 or just the
site in general.
Phil
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
>
> All,
> I think I have the ftp portion of my server up and
> running. If you havn't downloaded the manuals because
> you didn't want to install the ssh software, you can
> now download the manuals in Internet Explorer
> (assuming I have everything set properly).
> In the address bar, enter ftp://shawnerz.homelinux.org
> At the user and password prompt, enter griduser, and
> griduser.
> If everything is set correctly, you could see a list
> of the manuals that Filipe (sp?) uploaded.
> If your never connects and you get an endless
> hourglass, go to Tools | Internet Options | Advanced.
> Scroll down to the Browsing section and uncheck (or
> check) "Use Passive FTP (for firewall or DSL modem
> capaiblity)"
> With it checked, IE is supposed to use passive mode
> and lock itself to ports 20 and 21. However, with my
> checks using Win2000, it seems to work opposite of way
> I think it's supposed to work.
> Please let me know if it works for you.
> Thanks,
> -Shawn
>
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________________
_______________
> It's here! Your new message!
> Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.
> http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/
>
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2007 00:33:53 -0400
From: "Len G. Carpenter"
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: Manuals Availible via ftp
text/plain; charset=us-ascii
the login and password need to be embedded in the URL and damned if I
can remember the format for it.
just using the posted URL makes it an anonymous login which the server
does not support.
what you might want to try is to make a gmail account and see if you can
post all the files to the account then just give everyone the info on it
and hope no one deletes the files.
jeriddian wrote:
> Shawn,
> I tried it and couldn't get it to open. I just kept getting the
> message "Cannot open server". I'm running IE 7 myself. The pasive
> FTP option didn't help either. I don't know if it's IE 7 or just the
> site in general.
>
> Phil
>
> --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, Shawnerz <shawnerz@...> wrote:
> >
> > All,
> > I think I have the ftp portion of my server up and
> > running. If you havn't downloaded the manuals because
> > you didn't want to install the ssh software, you can
> > now download the manuals in Internet Explorer
> > (assuming I have everything set properly).
> > In the address bar, enter ftp://shawnerz.homelinux.org
> > At the user and password prompt, enter griduser, and
> > griduser.
> > If everything is set correctly, you could see a list
> > of the manuals that Filipe (sp?) uploaded.
> > If your never connects and you get an endless
> > hourglass, go to Tools | Internet Options | Advanced.
> > Scroll down to the Browsing section and uncheck (or
> > check) "Use Passive FTP (for firewall or DSL modem
> > capaiblity)"
> > With it checked, IE is supposed to use passive mode
> > and lock itself to ports 20 and 21. However, with my
> > checks using Win2000, it seems to work opposite of way
> > I think it's supposed to work.
> > Please let me know if it works for you.
> > Thanks,
> > -Shawn
> >
> >
> >
> >
> __________________________________________________________
> _______________
> > It's here! Your new message!
> > Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.
> > http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/
> >
>
>
>
> __________ NOD32 2178 (20070410) Information __________
>
> This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
> http://www.eset.com
>
--
Bumper sticker of the year: If you can read this, thank a
teacher....and since it's in English, thank a soldier."
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2007 05:51:32 -0300
From: "Celso MF"
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: Manuals Availible via ftp
text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
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Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2007 13:50:34 -0000
From: "jeriddian"
Subject: Re: Manuals Availible via ftp
Born and raised in Texas, but my parents were from Cuba, thus the
name in Spanish. :)
--- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com, "Celso MF" <celsomf@...> wrote:
>
> Where are you from, Felipe?
>
>
>
> On 4/11/07, jeriddian <Jeriddian@...> wrote:
> >
> > Actually, it's Felipe. But no big (grin). Just call me Phil. :)
> >
> > --- In RuGRiD-Laptop@yahoogroups.com <RuGRiD-Laptop%
40yahoogroups.com>,
> > Shawnerz <shawnerz@> wrote:
> > >
> > > All,
> > > I think I have the ftp portion of my server up and
> > > running. If you havn't downloaded the manuals because
> > > you didn't want to install the ssh software, you can
> > > now download the manuals in Internet Explorer
> > > (assuming I have everything set properly).
> > > In the address bar, enter ftp://shawnerz.homelinux.org
> > > At the user and password prompt, enter griduser, and
> > > griduser.
> > > If everything is set correctly, you could see a list
> > > of the manuals that Filipe (sp?) uploaded.
> > > If your never connects and you get an endless
> > > hourglass, go to Tools | Internet Options | Advanced.
> > > Scroll down to the Browsing section and uncheck (or
> > > check) "Use Passive FTP (for firewall or DSL modem
> > > capaiblity)"
> > > With it checked, IE is supposed to use passive mode
> > > and lock itself to ports 20 and 21. However, with my
> > > checks using Win2000, it seems to work opposite of way
> > > I think it's supposed to work.
> > > Please let me know if it works for you.
> > > Thanks,
> > > -Shawn
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > __________________________________________________________
> > _______________
> > > It's here! Your new message!
> > > Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.
> > > http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2007 07:22:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shawnerz
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: Manuals Availible via ftp
Len and Phil:
No, the login does not need to be embedded in the url.
I don't seem to have a problem from my PC at work.
I'm running Win XP and IE7.
My server does not support anonymous login.
My Win2000 computer running IE6 at home doesn't have
any problems either. Since that computer is on the
same network, I can't say it was a valid test.
I do know somebody was able to download last night
because I saw activity at about 12:30 AM (Eastern).
Perhaps the service is being blocked at your end. Is
your firewall blocking the connection? Are ports 20
and 21 open on your router? Are you able to ftp from
other sites?
Thanks,
-Shawn
the login and password need to be embedded in the URL
and damned if I can remember the format for it.
just using the posted URL makes it an anonymous login
which the server does not support.
what you might want to try is to make a gmail account
and see if you can post all the files to the account
then just give everyone the info on it and hope no one
deletes the files.
Shawn,
I tried it and couldn't get it to open. I just
kept getting the
message "Cannot open server". I'm running IE 7 myself.
The pasive
FTP option didn't help either. I don't know if it's IE
7 or just the
site in general.
Phil
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2007 12:21:50 -0400
From: Michael Alwan
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: Manuals Availible via ftp
Shawnerz wrote:
>
>
> No, the login does not need to be embedded in the url.
>
> I do know somebody was able to download last night
> because I saw activity at about 12:30 AM (Eastern).
>
> Perhaps the service is being blocked at your end. Is
That was me--I got everything. I experienced a fairly slow connection,
BTW, so left it going overnight. Took a few hours to download everything.
On a Win2K computer, I start Internet Explorer 6.0 and drag the FPT link
from the e-mail to the browser. The browser connects to the site, and
displays an error pop-up saying "Windows cannot access the folder..."
etc. Then, without reloading the page or closing the browser, I go to
the File menu, chose "Login as", use the "griduser" username and
password, and get access.
Mike
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2007 13:40:00 -0300
From: "Celso MF"
Subject: Re: [RuGRiD-Laptop] Re: Manuals Availible via ftp
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